bare metal? what to spray...

67 1/2 1600 · Post by **67 1/2 1600** » Fri May 12, 2006 2:30 am

What undercoating would be good to coat the bare metal of the roadster! I dont just want to spray primer over it. Any ideas that I can just pickup at the local home depot? Or would primer be fine?

DaRoaster · Post by **DaRoaster** » Fri May 12, 2006 4:08 am

How about wrinkle paint? That's made to spray right on the metal and it's durable.

Post by **spl310** » Fri May 12, 2006 6:41 am

I would lean more towards the Rustoleum or the ACE hardware equivalent. Then once that has cured, I would try a can of 3M rubberized undercoating.

Post by **Brad Lustig** » Fri May 12, 2006 7:37 am

If you want to mess with it, POR15 can be found locally sometimes. Found some at the local Ace here in town. Also, True Value has some stuff called XORust that's good for painting over bare metal. Then go on top with rubberized stuff if you still want to.

steved033 · Post by **steved033** » Fri May 12, 2006 7:39 am

POR-15. esp if there's the possiblity of ANY surface rust. There's also some stuff called "The Must for Rust" it's got phosphoric acid in it, and works great as a conditioner for prepping the surface. I've been interested in trying a roll on truck bed coating.

Visible surfaces usually get an etching primer instead, then a coat of high build to seal the surface.

I guess it all depends if you want originality.

sjd

Datsundude · Post by **Datsundude** » Fri May 12, 2006 1:58 pm

I used undercoating and works great, cheap too... cost only 1 buck for each 16oz at Kragen auto parts.

I applied all under body to reduce noice.

Vinh

datsunrides · Post by **datsunrides** » Fri May 12, 2006 6:37 pm

I would reccomend a self etching primer as a first coat. That cheap undercoat they sell at discount part stores has problems sticking if the surface is not clean and roughed up. If the metal surface is not at least primed, when the undercoat starts to lose adhesion, water can be trapped there and start rusting the metal. I had first hand experience with this, luckily a piece "broke" off and I saw what was happening. I literaly removed the rest by hand. POR-15, as previously mentioned, also works good. I now use the professional type undercoating (applied with a special gun and an air compressor) and have not had any problems. Cost is not that bad either. Also, primer is not meant to sit exposed for a long time. Remember to sand down the primer before topcoating if the primer has been on for a while

Mark