JagerTex's '67 1600

[Mattk]

Man this is like watching Bill Nye the science guy as a kid! I’m hooked!

Cheers
Matthew

Ps I agree

What I would tell you right now is save yourself some grief and just go with an SR20DET or even a KA-T if you want that much power .
The Cadillac engine is huge it doesn’t look like it at first but it’s very wide and tall and the 6sp transmission is a monster, I’m not doubting your talent an ingeniousity as evidenced by your homemade electrolysis solution but IMO you’ll spend way more and have to hack the car pretty bad to make the ATS engine fit

[JagerTex]

Currently picking up aome non-prime steel plating at Texas Iron and Metal... Moar surface area! Not to mention, I needed to find a decent metal supply yard down here.

So long as its iron/steel and not coated, it doesnt matter what it is, and stripping wheels is way mlre of a pain (not to mention not much cheaper)

Heck, if I do it right, I'll be able to find a use for the plates afterwards!

[JagerTex]

20190320_192706.jpg

20190320_192724.jpg

This is one of the cleaner ones... I was so excited that I didn't think to take a picture before scraping the first. Water line visible in the right side.The one from the front of the frame had 1/4-1/2" worth of deposits. The cleaner line was s single swipe with a plastic bodyfiller spreader... 0 elbow grease.

I have been running them for 2.5 days, placed verticaly -- one on each length of the pool.

I'm now repositioning them, two are laying flat underneath the frame, the two on the sides are closer and angled to have line of sight to new areas. Ill probably let them run another couple of days, move them one note time and then drain/assess and swap to the internal rebar circuits. Also, that should free up some jumper cables to connect negative on any isolated suspension bits and whatnot!

[JagerTex]

Apologies for posting so much -- I'm super stoked with how well this is working!

I haven't touched the frame with a brush or wire wheel -- this was after 15min of pressure washing. It looks a lot darker in the pictures because its still wet, but there os shiny metal everywhere and only a handful of areas that will merrit hands-on attention prior to degreasing, etching and applying Por-15. I know people have had mixed results with it, but mine have generally been fantastic with proper prep and seasoned metal (definitely have enough pitting here) -- in addition to being able to apply and touch up at home. Right now I'm compressorless and spraying an epoxy would be difficuly on an unenclosed patio.

Tl;dr: electrolysis is AWESOME here are pictures::

20190323_110107.jpg

20190323_110111.jpg

20190323_110122.jpg

20190323_110119.jpg

20190323_110127.jpg

It even brought out the vin, some original lettering and paint code on the leaf springs, removed 1-2 inches of built up grease, oil, muck and grime near grease fittings and the diff.

[notoptoy]

The results are pretty impressive!

[JagerTex]

20190328_093233_HDR.jpg

20190328_093244.jpg

Its paint day!!!

Steps:
wash it down
Use a quick pass with a wire brush to knock down any flash rust
Vaccum the inside
Apply eastwoods internal frame coat
Por15 the outside with several coats
Por15 top coat for UV protection since it may be uncovered for a while and while its easy now, I dont want to take it this far apart again



These pics are after last nights degrease (50/50 warm water and Simple Green) and a lazy 1/2 hour of misting with phosphoric acid.

I used roughly a 1/2 Gallon of KleenStrip brand "concrete and Metal Prep." Cheap source of phosphoric acid ($15/Gal). Dillute 3 parts water::1 part acid, use a garden sprayer rated for caustic chemicals and WEAR A RESPIRATOR/PAINT SUIT this IS acid. It will hurt. It will tear your lungs up and irritate the hell out of your skin/eyes/mouth/nose. Not a dinky paper mask, or sanding/particulate respirator -- you need one rated fkr organic vapors, VOCs and preferably acid (I believe NIOSH 95 or 100? Just reas the box) Also keep a 5 gallon bucket of water+baking soda and dip/douse yourself if you get it on you to help neutralize any exposure.

[JagerTex]

Aaaaand painted (99% anyway. There will be alterations and some areas touched up as parta are added/removed). Im super happy with how this went, and while its no small thing, for the results it took way less effort than it could have for a backyard DIY.

20190328_155341_HDR.jpg

20190328_155336_HDR.jpg

20190328_155322_HDR.jpg

I also used a few other things to make life easier... But I already had them:

Tyvek paint suit (full suit with boots and hood) - there are a lot of awkward angles. Youre gonna bump into wet paint or spots on the ground as you crawl around for the underside.

Some of my high temp silicone plugs, caps and spacers to make frame holes highly visible, and prevent overspray from the internal frame rattle cans. Super cheap, great for painting, powdercoating and sandblasting. (Protects threads and machined surfaces like brake piston bores, zerks, etc) huge assortments are cheap on amazon and eBay.

[2mAn]

Amazing!... hows the pool look now?

[JagerTex]

Amazing!... hows the pool look now?

Disassembled but intact, I'll be cleaning it off tomorrow (probably with a little CLR or something to get rid of the residual rust stain/water ring). I'm seriously contemplating doing the body this way... Now I just need to make like 10 really strong friends... or find a way to sneak the pool under my redneck car-lift and lower it down. Hmm.

As a side note, I never expect this thing to win any shows or awards... but it's giving me a great platform to experiment and scale up stuff that I hope y'all will find useful too! I just want a solid driver with some umpf!

Also, funny side note... my old commuter in WA for 2-3 years was an '86 325eta. When I sold her, she had over 400k on the original motor/transmission and averaged 35mpg. Couldn't kill it.