Fuel Gauge

frank in ga · Post by **frank in ga** » Tue May 02, 2006 3:46 pm

Just wanted to pass this on, my fuel gauge didn't work and the previous owner said it hadn't worked in the last 19 years. Connections to the gauge looked good. I went to look at the sending unit but the 4 screws were stripped. A half hour of PB Blaster and Vice grips finally got the screws out. I connected the two wires attached to the fuel sending unit and the gauge needle moved for the first time in 20 plus years. I went to remove the sending unit but all the screw heads were stripped. Another hour of PB Plaster and Vise Grips and with a lot of luck, got all the screws out. When I removed the sending unit, I found the arm that holds the float was rusted tight in the "Empty" position. 20 minutes of PB Blaster and a little light grease restored it to its original movement. I now have a great working Fuel Gauge. Hurrah!

project_timemachine · Post by **project_timemachine** » Wed May 03, 2006 9:09 am

Good for you!

The needle in my roadster's fuel gauge can only go up to the 1/2 mark...it can't seem to go passed that. I checked the float and it seems ok...no rust and the connections are good. So the problem lies in the fuel gauge. Has someone experienced this? And does anyone know how to fix this? Well the good thing is I can see if the fuel level is nearing empty...the bad thing is it's just annoying to know that the fuel gauge can't indicate the full fuel level.

FergO2k · Post by **FergO2k** » Wed May 03, 2006 4:13 pm

Steven,
so, when tank is full it reads 1/2, and staays ther until 1/2 full?
Or, when tank is full it reads 1/2, and tank is 1/2 full when gauge reads E?
2nd case means your ballast resistor is bad (as is mine), and means your temp gauge is reading wrong (usually similarly low) as well. Resistor is bolted to underside of steering shaft bracket, small box 3/4" x 1/2" x 1/4" thk. Clean the connections forst as it may only be dirty.
Fergus O, clean resistor, gotta buy one now....

project_timemachine · Post by **project_timemachine** » Wed May 03, 2006 6:32 pm

Yup you're right with the first scenario...when the tank is full the fuel gauge reads only 1/2...it seems that the gauge is stuck at the 1/2 mark and couldn't go past that indication mark. But when the fuel level in the tank goes below the 1/2 capacity then the fuel gauge indicates that without any problems. Is this also a resistor problem or it's the gauge that needs to be fixed? Thanks for the help!

Post by **ppeters914** » Thu May 04, 2006 5:36 pm

Mine is even weirder (hmmmm, is that a word?

)
The faster I go, the higher the needle.

The real problem is that it doesn't register empty when it really IS empty. Double Group Embarassment in an intersection.

Will worry about fixing it once the car is running again.

Post by **dbrick** » Fri May 05, 2006 11:08 pm

When I removed my sender from the tank (Super easy for some strange reason) ir was a complete ball of rust. Couple of cycles of PB Buster and then Brakleen then finally Radio Shak contact cleaner and works great

Whoever has one out of the car that is working should note the Ohm reading empty and full for reference. I forgot, but I think it was somewhere around 0 to 200 Ohm.

Pete, sounds like one of two things, Either the gauge voltage regulator is malfunctioning, or you have somehow wired it to the speedometer. does the Temp gauge do the same thing?

Steven, if the insulating glaze betwen the wraps of wire deteriorates or is shorted by rust it may do what your gauge does, once it passes the short, no change in resistance.

project_timemachine · Post by **project_timemachine** » Mon May 08, 2006 6:13 am

Ok thanks Dave for the advice! Really appreciate it! I'll check on it later...hopefully it's just faulty wiring