2mAn wrote: Thu Jan 24, 2019 12:23 pm
Ok, but here is my question: Is this tach super rare?
Simon, I'm excited to see the purple car out on the track! The (current?)previous owner is Gary Wasserman. He had a story about the gauge and showed me a photo album with detailed shots many years ago. Here is more info on it, though not conclusive:
notoptoy wrote: Wed Jan 23, 2019 5:51 pm
Make sure the car is standing still when you try to reset it - it it's rolling, you will damage the reset and your trip odometer will not work again.
Tom
The trip odometer reset but it and the odometer don't work. Looks like I'll be delving into past posts to figure out that fix.
Thanks, Shaun
mraitch wrote: Thu Jan 24, 2019 3:11 am
@Shaundeega
re broken hinge bolt.
don't KNOW this but see potential danger of door alignment. Since the 'plate' s a captive one, that slides in the a-pillar, if the helicoil is too big, you might run the risk of screwing up alignment.
Perhaps overkill suggestion, is to align door just using the 4/3 bolts or 3/4 bolts, depending upon which plate is damaged, THEN you can helicoil - IF you need to. This way, you can be sure that the helicoil won't interfere with alignment.
I may be being overcautious, but just a thought. You might find that you don't need it anyway, if it interferes.
Frankly, I would think that tapping it slightly bigger, would be a better solution. And indeed, retapping thread might even work.
Peter, I started to type this suggestion in my response then deleted it thinking that it might be too involved. What I was going to suggest is removing the door, (I Have had my doors off and on at least a dozen times in the last four years), And removing the hinge from the door and bolting it onto the A post. The hinge could then be used as a guide while drilling for the tap. This would insure alignment. I took a look at the captive plate and it looks like only 4mm thick, so I think that the harder steel of a Helicoil would be beneficial.
Lots of food for thought. Thank you, both . What do I have to lose with tapping and rereading? If that fails I can heli Coil. I appreciate both of your inputs.
Shaun
I would try retapping first. If you can get it to just hold the bolt snug than the other three should be sufficient to keep the door in place. If no luck there than I would just drill and tap the bad hole to the next size up.
Mike M
Old enough to know better, too old to remember why!
1969 2000 solex mine since 1972, under resurrection. (Finally resurrected as of spring 2019!)
1969 Porsche 911s -worth more, but not as valuable! Gone!
2017 Lotus Evora 400 - Oh my!!
Any quick pros & cons to upgrading to an electric radiator fan (Looks like an engine pull is in the cards and I'm at the "While I'm here I might as well..." stage) U20 with Champion rad, alternator already upgraded.
Eliminating the stock fans eliminated the shrouds which opened up the front of the engine.
Efan only runs when needed.
Added Efans to both cars when moving alt so easy to do then.
Easy to go back to stock if you don't like it.
Cons? Added wiring. Maybe another pound. Appearance if you're a factory or nothing guy. Draw on electric system may be a problem if all is stock.
Dan
SPL311 aka Skooter. Sold. Now wasting away in the SF area.
1990 Nissan 300zx. Sold this one too.
2018 VW Tiguan
Sounds like more pros than cons...any suggested brands & part #s?
Not worried about the factory of nothing at this point. It's a 1600 4 speed originally now with U20/5spd ... still have the old powertrain so if the next owner wants to re-install, they can fly at it
mraitch wrote: Thu Jan 24, 2019 3:11 am
@Shaundeega
re broken hinge bolt.
don't KNOW this but see potential danger of door alignment. Since the 'plate' s a captive one, that slides in the a-pillar, if the helicoil is too big, you might run the risk of screwing up alignment.
Perhaps overkill suggestion, is to align door just using the 4/3 bolts or 3/4 bolts, depending upon which plate is damaged, THEN you can helicoil - IF you need to. This way, you can be sure that the helicoil won't interfere with alignment.
I may be being overcautious, but just a thought. You might find that you don't need it anyway, if it interferes.
Frankly, I would think that tapping it slightly bigger, would be a better solution. And indeed, retapping thread might even work.
Peter, I started to type this suggestion in my response then deleted it thinking that it might be too involved. What I was going to suggest is removing the door, (I Have had my doors off and on at least a dozen times in the last four years), And removing the hinge from the door and bolting it onto the A post. The hinge could then be used as a guide while drilling for the tap. This would insure alignment. I took a look at the captive plate and it looks like only 4mm thick, so I think that the harder steel of a Helicoil would be beneficial.
Lots of food for thought. Thank you, both . What do I have to lose with tapping and rereading? If that fails I can heli Coil. I appreciate both of your inputs.
Shaun
The part where you said that the hole is now a little larger is what made me think that tapping the existing hole is not a viable alternative.
located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn
For those of you who have ever wondered what actually happens when you install a GM alternator WITHOUT initially installing the requisite 30A inline fuse - voila
[attachment=1]Ammeter Full size.jpg[/attachment]
The solder melts and the "resistance (?) wire" springs away from the post.
[attachment=0]Ammeter-Molten Solder.jpg[/attachment]
And I guess, if one is good with a soldering iron, one could conceivably repair it.
Since I'm NOT, does anyone have a working ammeter that I might acquire?
Or conversely, is there anyone out there in roadster land that is handy enough??
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Peter Harrison
1970 1600 (Stroker) - TOAD SAN (Eliza)
1970 1600 (Stock) - As Yet Unnamed
Lake Balboa (SFV) , California
