The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
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- tpersons
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
It has taken a few days to check out but I did check out my horn relay this weekend. Following Curtis`s directions I have determined that the horn relay is working properly. I am not sure where that leaves me except by process of elimination I feel that the failure is at the horn push button and /or the spring that pushes the little gold cap forward(towards the horn push plate). Any idea of where to go next? Thanks again....tim
- Curtis
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
As mentioned, go to the turn signal switch, go under the dash and disconnect the black wire with green band and ground it.tpersons wrote: Sun Aug 26, 2018 5:43 pm It has taken a few days to check out but I did check out my horn relay this weekend. Following Curtis`s directions I have determined that the horn relay is working properly. I am not sure where that leaves me except by process of elimination I feel that the failure is at the horn push button and /or the spring that pushes the little gold cap forward(towards the horn push plate). Any idea of where to go next? Thanks again....tim
66 stroker, almost done.
67 basket case, paint coming soon.
67 basket case, paint coming soon.
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Re: Gat tank vent fitting/nipple
Was removal of the fitting part of the agreed upon job?goldbug wrote: Fri Aug 24, 2018 4:33 pm Anyone found their gas tank vent fitting/nipple missing or needed to replace?
I picked up my tank from getting "refurbed", and (in addition to a crapload of some sort of coating) it appears the the gas tank vent fitting is missing entirely--in its place: a hole.
I know I can go find a small tube and weld on another 90deg elbow if needed, but I'd rather not grind/weld a sealed/painted tank if I can avoid it.
Anyone try using a generic 90 degree fitting w/ some crush washers or similar?
Maybe something like this from McMaster? https://www.mcmaster.com/#53505k42/ (note I just picked one from the results--size may not be correct)
located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn
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Re: Gat tank vent fitting/nipple
No, but neither was retaining it--the place I took it was not super detailed in terms of job spec, and they even outsourced the work to a place in a different state.
Regardless of whether I could go and twist some arms to get it repaired, I'm honestly so beaten down by all the problems the car and/or specialists keep surprising me with... I'd rather just fix it myself than deal with any further hassle. I think at this point I'm going to try to hook up a "bolt-in" fitting of some sort, fill it with water and see if it leaks. If no leaks then I'll probably call it done.
Another fun anecdote from the restoration of the tank... when I was removing bits off the fuel system in preparation, I managed to shear the fuel tank drain bolt completely out (bolt+surrounding metal), using "not that much" force. The repair place *did* fix the drain area and there's a nice clean threaded hole repair in place. Problem with that: they didn't include a drain plug... nor tell me what size/thread it was. Took some experimenting and measuring to finally figure it out.
One thing I have learned from all of this: you West-coast folks seem to have it easy--lots of shops around to do work like this. I'm having to make many many many more calls than I expected just to find places willing to take on my work.
1969 SRL311 (resto project)
2013 Golf R (hers)
2014 Corvette
2015 SS (daily, Holden-mode)
2013 Golf R (hers)
2014 Corvette
2015 SS (daily, Holden-mode)
- 2mAn
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
where can I source the female pieces for the tonneau cover? Got one and it will need the pieces cut into the cover
Simon
Current Cars:
-1999 Porsche 911 4/98-build, 3.8L M96
Current Cars:
-1999 Porsche 911 4/98-build, 3.8L M96
- dynaguy
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
https://www.datsunparts.com/Soft-Tops
Scroll down to twisty and postie grommets. Is that what you need? Upholstery shops and some hardware stores will also have them. Pat
Scroll down to twisty and postie grommets. Is that what you need? Upholstery shops and some hardware stores will also have them. Pat
- Curtis
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
Photo request. Can someone please post photos of the correct knob for the ashtray cover for 66-67 please?
Thanks.
Thanks.
66 stroker, almost done.
67 basket case, paint coming soon.
67 basket case, paint coming soon.
- 23yrRebuild
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
Mike - '67 Stroker / 5-Speed
- Curtis
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
Thanks. I have the correct knob on one and missing on the other.
66 stroker, almost done.
67 basket case, paint coming soon.
67 basket case, paint coming soon.
- leonhart
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
Stupid question here: Does the '67 have a hazard switch? I'm trying to get my dash put back together (PO was mostly done doing an aftermarket harness) – and I'm finding some stray wiring that I don't seem to have anywhere/thing to connect to. The wiring seems to be destined for a hazard switch, but I can't find anything on the dash (or in the owners manual) referring to a hazard switch in the 1967. My quick search on the forum seems to turn up results for '68+ only.
So I am guessing maybe the '67 didn't have hazards, but the aftermarket harness allowed for hazards that the PO was giving himself the option to add? Or was there a '67 factory switch/location I am not noticing that someone can refer me to?
Thanks!
So I am guessing maybe the '67 didn't have hazards, but the aftermarket harness allowed for hazards that the PO was giving himself the option to add? Or was there a '67 factory switch/location I am not noticing that someone can refer me to?
Thanks!
1967 Datsun Roadster 1600 - 1.6L - 4 speed manual
2000 Toyota Celica GTS - 1.8L - 6 speed manual
2013 Scion FR-S - 2.0L - 6 speed manual
2000 Toyota Celica GTS - 1.8L - 6 speed manual
2013 Scion FR-S - 2.0L - 6 speed manual
- Curtis
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
The 67 did not have hazard flashers. The 67 half years did as an option but they seem to have just put them on all of them anyway. The switch is located above the hood release on the triangular piece. Wires and plug exit out of the harness behind there.
66 stroker, almost done.
67 basket case, paint coming soon.
67 basket case, paint coming soon.
- Curtis
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
Here's the switch.
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66 stroker, almost done.
67 basket case, paint coming soon.
67 basket case, paint coming soon.
- leonhart
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
Thanks!
1967 Datsun Roadster 1600 - 1.6L - 4 speed manual
2000 Toyota Celica GTS - 1.8L - 6 speed manual
2013 Scion FR-S - 2.0L - 6 speed manual
2000 Toyota Celica GTS - 1.8L - 6 speed manual
2013 Scion FR-S - 2.0L - 6 speed manual
- mraitch
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
3 questions
1) Which way to unlock tie rod bolts? ( from the front )
left - anticlockwise ??
right - clockwise
2) Anyone have spares - mine are all chewed up ( probably from using plumber wrenches )
3) ALso missing "central' throttle adjusting screw - with spring
Best, Pete
1) Which way to unlock tie rod bolts? ( from the front )
left - anticlockwise ??
right - clockwise
2) Anyone have spares - mine are all chewed up ( probably from using plumber wrenches )
3) ALso missing "central' throttle adjusting screw - with spring
Best, Pete
Peter Harrison
1970 1600 (Stroker) - TOAD SAN (Eliza)
1970 1600 (Stock) - As Yet Unnamed
Lake Balboa (SFV) , California
1970 1600 (Stroker) - TOAD SAN (Eliza)
1970 1600 (Stock) - As Yet Unnamed
Lake Balboa (SFV) , California
- GeoffM
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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2
Hey Pete,
Regarding #1 as I recall they are standard thread. I replaced mine with new grade 8 castle nuts but the problem I ran into was that the standard industrial castle nuts are taller than the OEM nuts which means the bottom of the U (where the clevis pin runs through) does not fully expose the hole in the tie-rod when it is completely torqued-up. My work-around was to simply use smaller diameter cotter pins, as there was enough hole exposed to run them through..
Regarding #1 as I recall they are standard thread. I replaced mine with new grade 8 castle nuts but the problem I ran into was that the standard industrial castle nuts are taller than the OEM nuts which means the bottom of the U (where the clevis pin runs through) does not fully expose the hole in the tie-rod when it is completely torqued-up. My work-around was to simply use smaller diameter cotter pins, as there was enough hole exposed to run them through..
Geoff
1969 SPL-311
1969 SPL-311