Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

General topics.

Moderators: notoptoy, S Allen, Solex68

Post Reply
C.Costine
Roadster Nut-Site Supporter
Posts: 1731
Joined: Fri Feb 13, 2015 8:08 pm

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Post by C.Costine »

PBJ, your car is very similar to how mine was. I used some of the available repair panels. I used the ones for there bottoms of the front fenders, and the rear arch and rocker panel for the right side. I started at the left front and worked my way around so after awhile I got a feel for how much the the repair panels would save me. I cut patterns out of light cardboard for pretty much all of the replacement pieces that I made. I didn't have to do my inner rear fenders, but I would suggest trying to make a pattern by cutting a roughly shaped piece then cutting out triangular pieces from the bottom to make it curve the way you need it to. I made my own replacement rocker panel caps by bending into a half cylinder shape then bending and welding the end.
rt rock in place.JPG
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn
User avatar
PBJ
Roadster Fanatic
Posts: 92
Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2016 7:55 pm
Location: Colorado

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Post by PBJ »

C.Costine wrote: Sat Mar 17, 2018 11:43 am PBJ, your car is very similar to how mine was. I used some of the available repair panels. I used the ones for there bottoms of the front fenders, and the rear arch and rocker panel for the right side. I started at the left front and worked my way around so after awhile I got a feel for how much the the repair panels would save me. I cut patterns out of light cardboard for pretty much all of the replacement pieces that I made. I didn't have to do my inner rear fenders, but I would suggest trying to make a pattern by cutting a roughly shaped piece then cutting out triangular pieces from the bottom to make it curve the way you need it to. I made my own replacement rocker panel caps by bending into a half cylinder shape then bending and welding the end.

rt rock in place.JPG
Thanks! I appreciate the photos. I have been looking at a few ways to do it. Recently I acquired a complete rocker that might be salvageable, but I have to dig into it soon to see what will work. If that doesn't work then I will look at a solution like this.
Josh
1968 1600 - Frame-on restoration.
1970 VW Bug - Long Course Offroad car in Class 11 build configuration
1995 BMW 318ti - Short course Rallyx Car with s50 M3 swap
2006 Subaru WRX - Daily driver and occasional Ice Racer.
User avatar
PBJ
Roadster Fanatic
Posts: 92
Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2016 7:55 pm
Location: Colorado

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Post by PBJ »

I have been traveling for work and therefore not getting as much done as I hoped. I recently received the lower seals that I was missing and thought I would get the suspension together. I spent a little time with POR 15 applying it to some of the areas I had cleaned up but that stuff is a bit spiteful and seemed to have some adhesion issues. I am trying to figure out what it is that I missed when I was cleaning the metal.

I pulled the drivers side brake caliper apart to see what the next steps were. I haven't seen the guide pin in other brakes before, but the bigger interest was the coating of rust. on the inside of the piston.
41101096682_58863f8089_z.jpg
39335324010_49333bbff6_z.jpg
I believe I will be able to restore these, but I have a little work to do in order to get them back to a safe condition.

This past weekend I arrived back from a work trip when I saw all the Easter sales at Harbor freight. For $100 I walked away with a new Sand Blast cabinet and media, this should help make some quicker progress of some of the rust repair.
HFBC.jpg
I actually spent a bit of time on Sunday fixing the gun so it would work...

I am hoping to get the drivers side reassembled this weekend and start working on the passenger side.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Josh
1968 1600 - Frame-on restoration.
1970 VW Bug - Long Course Offroad car in Class 11 build configuration
1995 BMW 318ti - Short course Rallyx Car with s50 M3 swap
2006 Subaru WRX - Daily driver and occasional Ice Racer.
User avatar
theunz
Roadster Nut-Site Supporter
Posts: 2394
Joined: Sat May 02, 2009 1:54 pm
Location: Catoosa Ok.
Model: 2000
Year: High Windshield-68-70

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Post by theunz »

Highly recommend that you get a full size tube of silicone caulk and go after all the seems on your cabinet. If you look on line you can find out how to make a cheap filter using a shop vac and a 5 gal pail with some water in it. Also you need a pretty big compressor to make the gun work well.
Mike M

Old enough to know better, too old to remember why!


1969 2000 solex mine since 1972, under resurrection. (Finally resurrected as of spring 2019!)
1969 Porsche 911s -worth more, but not as valuable! Gone!
2017 Lotus Evora 400 - Oh my!!
User avatar
PBJ
Roadster Fanatic
Posts: 92
Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2016 7:55 pm
Location: Colorado

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Post by PBJ »

theunz wrote: Wed Apr 04, 2018 9:11 pm Highly recommend that you get a full size tube of silicone caulk and go after all the seems on your cabinet. If you look on line you can find out how to make a cheap filter using a shop vac and a 5 gal pail with some water in it. Also you need a pretty big compressor to make the gun work well.
It seems that HF has figured out a bunch of this, the cabinet came with a full size tube of Caulk! My compressor holds up to the volume of air, but the trigger on the gun would hang up every time you pulled it and bend the plunger. I made a modification to the track the plunger rides on and it seems to work fine now. I have seen some folks saying to replace the gun with the $20 eastwood gun, but I can't see that they are very different from the photos. It works great right now, but I do need to seal it all up. I also need to build up a wall by the door to force the abrasive to fall back into the cabinet rather than fall out whenever I open the door!

Thanks!
Josh
1968 1600 - Frame-on restoration.
1970 VW Bug - Long Course Offroad car in Class 11 build configuration
1995 BMW 318ti - Short course Rallyx Car with s50 M3 swap
2006 Subaru WRX - Daily driver and occasional Ice Racer.
User avatar
theunz
Roadster Nut-Site Supporter
Posts: 2394
Joined: Sat May 02, 2009 1:54 pm
Location: Catoosa Ok.
Model: 2000
Year: High Windshield-68-70

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Post by theunz »

You can tee off your air line and run a second hose into the cabinet with a blow gun on it and blow the sand away from the door before opening it. It's also good for blowing the media off your parts as well. When your ready for new media don't go back to HF just find a foundry supply store and buy 40 or 50 lb bags of either crushed glass or, if your willing to spend the extra money, glass beads. The crushed glass is the best bang for the buck and only cost a little more than the sand mix.
Mike M

Old enough to know better, too old to remember why!


1969 2000 solex mine since 1972, under resurrection. (Finally resurrected as of spring 2019!)
1969 Porsche 911s -worth more, but not as valuable! Gone!
2017 Lotus Evora 400 - Oh my!!
User avatar
PBJ
Roadster Fanatic
Posts: 92
Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2016 7:55 pm
Location: Colorado

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Post by PBJ »

theunz wrote: Wed Apr 04, 2018 9:29 pm You can tee off your air line and run a second hose into the cabinet with a blow gun on it and blow the sand away from the door before opening it. It's also good for blowing the media off your parts as well. When your ready for new media don't go back to HF just find a foundry supply store and buy 40 or 50 lb bags of either crushed glass or, if your willing to spend the extra money, glass beads. The crushed glass is the best bang for the buck and only cost a little more than the sand mix.
Thanks! I have a friend that works at an aerospace company and I have recently discovered that they discard their glass beads well before they are used up, so I think I may have a revolving supply of beads in the near future. I'll use up this media before I get there. It was interesting to find out that the "glass beads" at HF were actually crushed glass. Thanks for the tip on the T for an air line!
Josh
1968 1600 - Frame-on restoration.
1970 VW Bug - Long Course Offroad car in Class 11 build configuration
1995 BMW 318ti - Short course Rallyx Car with s50 M3 swap
2006 Subaru WRX - Daily driver and occasional Ice Racer.
User avatar
theunz
Roadster Nut-Site Supporter
Posts: 2394
Joined: Sat May 02, 2009 1:54 pm
Location: Catoosa Ok.
Model: 2000
Year: High Windshield-68-70

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Post by theunz »

Glad to help out. There must be something addictive in the dust, I seem to be always looking for something to blast! I must have put a couple of hundred hours on mine in the last couple of years. Just so rewarding to see grungy parts transformed into new condition right before your eyes.
Mike M

Old enough to know better, too old to remember why!


1969 2000 solex mine since 1972, under resurrection. (Finally resurrected as of spring 2019!)
1969 Porsche 911s -worth more, but not as valuable! Gone!
2017 Lotus Evora 400 - Oh my!!
User avatar
PBJ
Roadster Fanatic
Posts: 92
Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2016 7:55 pm
Location: Colorado

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Post by PBJ »

I have spent a number of weeks trying to make a full fender lip for the inner fender of the rear drivers side wheel arch. I have had some difficulty getting the shape right since it has a few different points that I can't get the shrink or stretch right in order to get it to conform to the shape. I have known all along that I could definitely make this in 3 parts, but I have been stubborn and tried repeatedly to get this right...

Today I gave up and made it all in a few hours in a few pieces.

I started with the middle section. I used the bead roller to get the basic form then the shrinker and stretcher to tune in the shape.
41895907332_ff6e36a99b_z.jpg

I got that all welded in and worked on the front wing as well.

28068532548_de0b8c7c1d_z.jpg

Once both of these were tacked in, I built the rear wing as well. I managed to take care of the small panel that was rusted out in the rear quarter as well.

41221557914_f770c8ef03_z.jpg

I am hoping to get back to the shop tomorrow night to get some of the welding completed on this section so I can move onto the rockers
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Josh
1968 1600 - Frame-on restoration.
1970 VW Bug - Long Course Offroad car in Class 11 build configuration
1995 BMW 318ti - Short course Rallyx Car with s50 M3 swap
2006 Subaru WRX - Daily driver and occasional Ice Racer.
User avatar
theunz
Roadster Nut-Site Supporter
Posts: 2394
Joined: Sat May 02, 2009 1:54 pm
Location: Catoosa Ok.
Model: 2000
Year: High Windshield-68-70

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Post by theunz »

Nice metal work, that's something I'd like to try sometime.
Mike M

Old enough to know better, too old to remember why!


1969 2000 solex mine since 1972, under resurrection. (Finally resurrected as of spring 2019!)
1969 Porsche 911s -worth more, but not as valuable! Gone!
2017 Lotus Evora 400 - Oh my!!
User avatar
PBJ
Roadster Fanatic
Posts: 92
Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2016 7:55 pm
Location: Colorado

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Post by PBJ »

theunz wrote: Sun May 06, 2018 10:31 pm Nice metal work, that's something I'd like to try sometime.
Thanks Mike, I've been making some progress on sheet metal forming. Hoping to keep building some skills so I can get into more complicated shapes.
Josh
1968 1600 - Frame-on restoration.
1970 VW Bug - Long Course Offroad car in Class 11 build configuration
1995 BMW 318ti - Short course Rallyx Car with s50 M3 swap
2006 Subaru WRX - Daily driver and occasional Ice Racer.
User avatar
PBJ
Roadster Fanatic
Posts: 92
Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2016 7:55 pm
Location: Colorado

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Post by PBJ »

With all of the fender formed and welded in I went through, finish welded and then blended the metal.

27387860167_4ef74172e4_z.jpg

This just left a section on the front and back of the fender that was still rusted metal. I made some templates (I find that Soda box cardboard is great for this) then cut, shaped and fit some metal.

42212116202_534d0ebc99_z.jpg
27387860257_f463daf9d1_z.jpg
28385043268_e022d457b9_z.jpg

With everything fit I finish welded and blended the metal. In the end it looks like this.

40451615620_1136abf902_z.jpg

The front and back of the fender has a spot welded addition and I was able to get the back complete this weekend before I had to give in for the weekend.

27387858477_dd7e86681c_z.jpg

Next up I have to complete the front part of the fender. Then it is on to the rockers... finally.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Josh
1968 1600 - Frame-on restoration.
1970 VW Bug - Long Course Offroad car in Class 11 build configuration
1995 BMW 318ti - Short course Rallyx Car with s50 M3 swap
2006 Subaru WRX - Daily driver and occasional Ice Racer.
User avatar
PBJ
Roadster Fanatic
Posts: 92
Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2016 7:55 pm
Location: Colorado

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Post by PBJ »

Well, It is taking me forever, but I swear I am still making progress!

Today I finally had a breakthrough on the rocker's These front and rear caps have been tormenting me for a while. I really want to make them look factory and it has been challenging to make some of these curves. Today I finally figured out a way that I could make them.
46820070941_231ddededb_z.jpg
32944276308_51bc757e70_z.jpg
46094884314_043822f8de_z.jpg
I was able to use a combination of the Shrinker/Stretcher, a small anvil forming die that I have and a small english wheel to make the curved portions that make up these caps. This is the first of the bunch and I think I have a bit of momentum now, so I am hoping to be able to make the other 3 in much less time. These have been a big time suck for me, I could have tackled them a lot differently, but I used them to learn how to use these tools and this is what I have finally come up with
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Josh
1968 1600 - Frame-on restoration.
1970 VW Bug - Long Course Offroad car in Class 11 build configuration
1995 BMW 318ti - Short course Rallyx Car with s50 M3 swap
2006 Subaru WRX - Daily driver and occasional Ice Racer.
User avatar
notoptoy
Vendor-Site Supporter
Posts: 9674
Joined: Fri Oct 02, 2009 2:55 pm
Location: Winston-Salem, NC and Ocala, FL
Contact:

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Post by notoptoy »

Very impressive work. I am a huge fan of CAD Design too! (Cardboard-aided design)
"When all else fails, force prevails!" Ummm, we're gonna need a bigger hammer here.

67.5 SPL311 H20 w/5 speed
65 Impala Convertible
2017 C43 AMG
User avatar
PBJ
Roadster Fanatic
Posts: 92
Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2016 7:55 pm
Location: Colorado

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Post by PBJ »

notoptoy wrote: Sun Jan 20, 2019 10:40 pm Very impressive work. I am a huge fan of CAD Design too! (Cardboard-aided design)
Thanks! These seemed like a good place to learn some of these skills. They have complicated shapes but aren’t the actual visible skin of the car.... so my tolerances can be Pretty forgiving.
Josh
1968 1600 - Frame-on restoration.
1970 VW Bug - Long Course Offroad car in Class 11 build configuration
1995 BMW 318ti - Short course Rallyx Car with s50 M3 swap
2006 Subaru WRX - Daily driver and occasional Ice Racer.
Post Reply