Greg672000: On my '65 I am sure that the splined shaft on both the idler and 'box were tapered. Once I fitted my puller and tightened it up the arms literally fell off
Here is a kit I bought years ago and it was well worth the $$$$$$: -
pitman arm puller.jpg
The two highlighted tools were used for that job
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Copterpilot wrote: Sat Mar 17, 2018 12:12 pm
Are these small cracks on my fly wheel of concern?
Wow. I have never seen that. I'd say it's a big concern. Is that a U20 steel flywheel?
I have a replacement but I would be afraid of what shipping would be to get it to you.
I wonder if it would fit in one of the Post Office's Flat Rate Boxes?
White 1968 2000 Roadster
Gray 2003 VW Jetta TDI
Red 2005 Pontiac Vibe
2112 Toyota Highlander
Platinum White F150 Platinum Powerstroke
AS365 Dauphine
A109E Power
Greg, Harbor Freight has a pitman arm puller like the one Nissanman shows above for $14.99 if memory serves that fits like it was made for the job. Use the cast in tabs and I suggest using a sacrificial nut on the end of the idler shaft you are pressing off of. The shaft has a tapered cone machined into the end that fits the puller end perfectly, but on my first attempt (on the rusty parts car) I actually mushroomed the end of the idler shaft before the pitman arm let go.
Capturing the shaft end inside a nut and protecting the shaft dimensions will help keep a small job from turning into a big one.
Thanks again nolastyankee, HF had one that was 1 5/8 and that was just able to do it. Set some tension, tapped with a hammer a couple times, more tension, couple more taps then she popped off . Followed your advice and installed that castle nut to protect the end of the shaft, worked perfect. Thanks!
Pic of line to the clutch slave cylinder. Am I missing a fitting/sleeve that would lock it to the support tab or should I just add a couple nuts to do the same? (it's threaded all the way down in that image)
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there is a clip thingie that goes over the support (similar to the clips that hold the brake lines), but with a cutout to match the hex end of the CABLE. Since the HARD line nut is free to move, this allows you to properly install all and tighten down./up
Peter Harrison
1970 1600 (Stroker) - TOAD SAN (Eliza)
1970 1600 (Stock) - As Yet Unnamed
Lake Balboa (SFV) , California
I would start with checking the fuses, then look at the switch at the pedal, is it lined up - not off to either side. Does it extend far enough when the pedal is pushed to activate it? Is the switch connected, does it work? Is it possible just the brake filaments are burned out in the bulbs?
"When all else fails, force prevails!" Ummm, we're gonna need a bigger hammer here.
Ok, here’s what I figured out. I’m thinking that this replacement transmission should have had the pins with the O rings which look a little longer. So not having any, I asked one of our helicopter mechanics if he could take off .05†off each. Here’s the result. I have them installed and they work perfectly. They are the two on the left.
B861B137-279F-419C-A0C6-FCF9780263A6.jpeg
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White 1968 2000 Roadster
Gray 2003 VW Jetta TDI
Red 2005 Pontiac Vibe
2112 Toyota Highlander
Platinum White F150 Platinum Powerstroke
AS365 Dauphine
A109E Power
I was wrong - the flex cable from the slave is held in place by a nut on the other side of the 'bracket,' The hardline, having a flexible/free end is subsequently screwed on the cable.
Seems like all dimensions are SAE.
Peter Harrison
1970 1600 (Stroker) - TOAD SAN (Eliza)
1970 1600 (Stock) - As Yet Unnamed
Lake Balboa (SFV) , California