Suggestions for reinstalling side window glass in bottom track? I got the passenger side window in, but the drivers side popped out of it's track while I was trying to wrestle it into the door (expletives omitted). I gather the original was some sort of thin rubber cemented to channel and glass (and perhaps pressed together), I probably have some 1/16 thick neoprene glazing tape (for windows), or 3M VB tape, or also considering sealants, as the tape idea seams like it could be difficult to get everything in the channel.
Michael
20 minutes later I got the top nuts off and the bottom seems hopeless. Theres a locknut of some sort, it pretty much disintegrated on the pass side and the driverside was even worse. The nut is spinning with the shaft, so before I start break more stuff, is there something simple I am overlooking? Normally when its double nut-ed I use two wrenches and bing bang boom off it comes. Doesnt seem to want to do that this time.
Sitting in traffic yesterday I noticed fumes coming from under the hood. Pulled to the shoulder & popped the hood. Gentle fumes the colour of steam were coming from the breather tube on my valve cover (U20). Same thing today and when I got home I checked the engine temp with my laser reader ... normal...What is normal for fumes of any kind from the breather tube?
notoptoy wrote:Just a few thoughts and not complete by any means , but some fumes are going to be normal, it is a vent for the crankcase. So, fuel fumes might indicate a super rich condition where fuel is getting past the rings, or even leaking into the oil from the fuel pump housing (very unusual) or possibly bad intake valve seats. Antifreeze/coolant smell could indicate a bad, or going bad head gasket - might want to retorque you head bolts. Could also be a crack in the head/block somewhere - hopefully not! Oil smells, well that's normal, though a lot would indicate worn rings or valve guides perhaps.
I'll try adjusting for the super rich condition ... there is a bit of run - on when the ignition is turned off ... then a head re-torque since the head was off this summer
2mAn wrote:rear shocks is a 5 minute job they said....
20 minutes later I got the top nuts off and the bottom seems hopeless. Theres a locknut of some sort, it pretty much disintegrated on the pass side and the driverside was even worse. The nut is spinning with the shaft, so before I start break more stuff, is there something simple I am overlooking? Normally when its double nut-ed I use two wrenches and bing bang boom off it comes. Doesnt seem to want to do that this time.
Those top nuts aren't even real nuts. They are just pal nuts. When spinning free they are not your problem. Flame wrench is best or if you don't have one, go with the recip. saw or hack saw. They are junk any way don't spend time on them.
located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn
@mlwebb - re window glass.
what I have done successfully
1) remove all relevant bits and clean.
2) get a bike inner tube - my local bike store has trashed ones - cheap
3) fit (with glue) tube into lower carrier - let sit for some time.
4) glue window into carrier - also let sit.
5) install.
Make SURE that the left / right channels are clean - perhaps good time to replace with nice 'furry bits AND make sure that rear channel is properly situatated - the bottom 'bracket' often breaks more on the driver side rather than the passenger - BUT
HTW.
Peter Harrison
1970 1600 (Stroker) - TOAD SAN (Eliza)
1970 1600 (Stock) - As Yet Unnamed
Lake Balboa (SFV) , California