Launched my oil filter

SLOroadster · Post by **SLOroadster** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 3:21 pm

Honestly I don't know how Fram stays in business. Perhaps its all the NHRA/NASCAR fans who don't know jack when it comes to car care. When I worked at Jiffy Lube, we used them, and when anything of even remote coolness rolled in, I'd order up a Napa filter. I have always used the Napa Gold 1512 filter on my car, never had an issue. It also has SO much more filter material in it than most of the other brands.

Live and learn,

Will

Victor_laury · Post by **Victor_laury** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 3:35 pm

SLOroadster wrote:I have always used the Napa Gold 1512 filter on my car, never had an issue. It also has SO much more filter material in it than most of the other brands.

Good stuff Will. The Napa Gold is a relabled WIX 51512 (Napa drops the frist digit). Very good high quality filter.

Import_sounds-of-mid-GA · Tue Mar 14, 2006 5:55 pm

spl310 wrote:always heard good things about Wix filters. I tried one years ago. It is the only filter I ever had fail.

We run WIX on the 540 motor.... does good! I have a STP on my 2000... nota prob so far!

DatsunBucky · Post by **DatsunBucky** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 11:08 pm

While we're discussing the relative merits (and demerits) of various oil filter brands, keep in mind that the two main threads for oil filters are 3/4" x 16, and 13/16" x 16. If you put the best oil filter in the world on a vehicle that requires the 3/4" and the filter has the 13/16 threads, you'll have problems.

I would suggest that instead of saying "Brand X" is crap and you wouldn't put them on on ANYTHING, maybe say that in your personal experience Brand X is not as good as Brand Y and here's why.

People like to put down NASCAR, but they seem to conveniently overlook if nothing else the engine technology. Consider: A 3200 lb car, 355 cu in (~6 liters) engine, single 4bbl carb (breathing through little holes), pushrods, and it'll still push that car way past 200 mph for 500 miles. Not too shabby in my book.

Post by **ppeters914** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 3:27 pm

DatsunBucky wrote: People like to put down NASCAR, but they seem to conveniently overlook if nothing else the engine technology. Consider: A 3200 lb car, 355 cu in (~6 liters) engine, single 4bbl carb (breathing through little holes), pushrods, and it'll still push that car way past 200 mph for 500 miles. Not too shabby in my book.

My mind is made up. Don't confuse the issue with facts.

Seriously, I don't know if it's still out there on the web somewhere, but a guy did an oil filter comparison test many years ago. One of his results was "never use Fram." He also found the Napa and Wix filters to be very good.

Post by **reblues** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 5:56 pm

This might be the site you are thinking of.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

I didn't re-read it enough to see the opinion of Fram filters, but if memory serves that was the conclusions.

jhdj250 · Post by **jhdj250** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 8:09 pm

Here is the link directly to the "avoid" page

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html#avoid

Post by **dbrick** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 11:30 pm

Well, after extensive research and development (actually discussed it over coffee and junk food) I've determined that the drain back tube, due to the angle cut on the end, should cause the oil filter to do an end-over-end vs the straight spiral for no tube. This is based on pure conjecture, just had 10 minutes to kill at work.

So, in conclusion, the drain back tube should be used for kickoff and field goals, no tube for spiral punts. Use straight 50 weight for max distance.

On a serious note, before I put the heavy spring in the cam tensioner, the motor had a nasty chain rattle on startup. I added the tube and no more noise.