Smallest Replacement Starter

[exit64]

The time has come to tackle one of my least favorite things to do on these cars, replace the starter. Been looking at all the options but none of them state the dimensions. Any idea on which one is the most compact? Or do I go down the rabbit hole and just pull off the carbs and exhaust and do the timing chain right now too? Finally into good weather so would rather fix it fast.
Post part numbers if you guys have any insight on this. Thanks,
Mike
Aka exit64

[Linda]

So many owners have the gear reduction starters listed in the Wiki, so they must fit. Why do you need the dimensions?
Linda

[exit64]

Because I'm trying to avoid pulling off the carbs and exhaust manifold. Which may happen anyway if I can't get the top bolt out tomorrow with more cuss words and some Yankee ingenuity.

[JT68]

U20/non gear reduction forklift Is the most compact.

On the 65-67.5, if the triangle sheetmetal piece below the inner fender is gone (like the late model cars) the starter is a 30 minute job- straightforward if you use the right tools.

With the 1600 long starter and that triangle body piece still in place, i think if you just remove the carbs and intake, you can weasle it out. That is not a fun job. Another option is remove the front hoses, battery etc and unbolt the motor mounts so you can lift and deflect the entire engine over a littie. In this case you can get it out without removing any manifolds -semi huge PIA in general.

Most elect to sawzall out the triangle sheet metal piece so the starter can come out between the frame and body through the wheel well. If cut carefully and dressed off professionally (no hacks/sharp edges) future owners and you will appreciate the access. J

[JT68]

You can get both starter bolts with a 14mm flex socket on 2 foot or so extension-not all that hard.

[exit64]

Thanks JT. It's on the 69 2000. The header that one of the PO's installed has just enough bend in it that I may or may not be able to get to the top bolt. Got the bottom one out no problem with a 14mm gear wrench. At t least there is no gusset to deal with on the later cars, so at least I got that going for me. Gunga a lunga.

[notoptoy]

I got to the top bolt from the front of the engine, relatively easily, as JT states. Tough picture to see, but this is a double extension, not sure I used or needed a wobble at all.

[GeoffM]

Hey Mike...for what it's worth...
I found that the old starter couldn't fit through the triangle. I tried 19 different ways and used all the facial emotes but couldn't do it. It was so close....sooooo close. I even tried loosening off the body to frame bolt in the off chance that the body would slightly lift away from the frame as I tried to birth the starter...didn't help and I felt embarrassed for myself to even think it would have helped in the first place.
I finally used a cold chisel to punch off a superfluous tit (a small boss on the starter nose) which was approx 1/4" square and completely superficial to the starter's mechanical requirements. Once i did that, it could slide right out.

[JT68]

Hey Mike...for what it's worth...
I finally used a cold chisel to punch off a superfluous tit (a small boss on the starter nose) which was approx 1/4" square and completely superficial to the starter's mechanical requirements. Once i did that, it could slide right out.

That one is super odd, I've probably taken 2xdozen out thru the frame over the years. Never had to do that ! ??

[GeoffM]

Yeah weird....an OEM starter as well.

[Gordon Maness]

I have gone to the forklift starter.
It will work on both the 1600 and 2000,
without cutting out the triangle.
Like some one said, a two foot extension and swivel socket are necessary.

https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/s ... 5-h30.html

Gordon

[devo]

I used one of the very short, non gear reduction staters like this one. Plenty of power and brand new.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Starter-replace ... 75&vxp=mtr

[exit64]

Thanks gents. Got the top bolt out using two universals and two extensions. This car has an after market header on it of unknown origin. Works fine but has one of the down pipes with more of a curve than normal. Got to watch the high school dropout at NAPA hook up the starter backwards on the test stand and let all the smoke out of it, even after I told him twice it was wrong. If it was on its way out then, it definitely is not working now. Went down the block and had an interesting conversation with a guy behind the counter who may or may not actually understood me. Guess I'll find out tomorrow when I pick up a "Wilson" starter, but branded as an O'Rielly part. Well gosh, son, that makes me feel a whole lot better. Stay tuned....

[Linda]

I have the db electrical starter too, works well.
As I recall, just taking off the tire allowed the installation, with a regular header.

Linda

[exit64]

Alrighty then. The Wilson 91-27-3323 is a perfect fit. Nice and short. Oh no, O'Rielly's has it for $89. $20 core. Gave them the burned up one and they took it, no problem. Took about half an hour to put the whole mess back together. Added a ground strap from the lower bolt to the frame that was missing and gave it a go. Spins up faster than it ever has and is nice and quiet. Drove it to our local Tuesday night sports car club get together with time to spare. Done and done. Ready for Canby.