New Member - San Diego

[Gregs672000]

Exactly what AD2000 said. Note the number stamping and the angled slot... that's a smog dizzy curve. Timing is set at 0 at idle. BEST single upgrade you can do to your car is to swap out for an electronic distributor upgrade with the right curve. Much hotter spark, proper timing curve, etc. There are things that need to be done to desmog the car, so search the forum or others will here will respond and give you a list.

[Matt]

So I said the wrong things.. Hah I apologize for my lack of mechanical knowledge. The distributor is set to 0 and the ignition timing is between 15-16. If that makes sense..

I'll look into the electric distributor.. I recently had to purchase a new water pump that fit late models as the Beck Arnley does not. So I haven't been able to drive her at all. The hard top did arrive today though!

[Gregs672000]

So I said the wrong things.. Hah I apologize for my lack of mechanical knowledge. The distributor is set to 0 and the ignition timing is between 15-16. If that makes sense..

I'll look into the electric distributor.. I recently had to purchase a new water pump that fit late models as the Beck Arnley does not. So I haven't been able to drive her at all. The hard top did arrive today though!

Mmmm, no. If your timing light says 16 degrees advance at idle, the timing is advanced (assuming the light is set correctly if it's one that offers adjustment, known as a "dial back" timing light). The scale on the distributor mount is not necessarily accurate if the distributor has been installed a tooth off for example.
You don't want more than 32 degrees TOTAL advance, so as you rev the engine watch how far the flash goes beyond the final mark (which is 20 degrees). If it looks like it is near double that, you're near 40 degrees advanced or more... too much! Too much advance and the fuel explodes too soon and makes the engine fight itself. And then it can blow a hole in a piston.
No worries about not knowing all things mechanical (I dont!), we can help guide you! It is important for you to understand how systems work and why (for example, why is ignition advance needed?). That will help you trouble shoot issues and learn your car more and more over time... it's part of the relationship! If you need some understanding, there likely are places on the Internet that will quickly explain stuff, or you can ask us.
To clarify this particular issue, do carefully remove the necessary part of the distributor so you can better see what you have.

[Rodster]

I was told that the 1600 does not have re-curved for pre-smog. only the 2000 motor has to be re-curved

Anyone know for sure?

[spl310]

All smog engines should be recurved. The 1600 and 2000 smog engines have the same curve.

[Daniel]

I have a 69 U20 with all smog equipment removed. It currently has the OEM 17.5 degree distributor. I have a 7.5 in good shape from a 67 1600. If I'm understanding the comments, all I have to do is drop in the earlier one set the timing to 0 at 800 rpm and have fun!

[notoptoy]

No, drop in the older one from the 1600, set the timing at 20 BTDC and have fun.

[Matt]

So I said the wrong things.. Hah I apologize for my lack of mechanical knowledge. The distributor is set to 0 and the ignition timing is between 15-16. If that makes sense..

I'll look into the electric distributor.. I recently had to purchase a new water pump that fit late models as the Beck Arnley does not. So I haven't been able to drive her at all. The hard top did arrive today though!

Mmmm, no. If your timing light says 16 degrees advance at idle, the timing is advanced (assuming the light is set correctly if it's one that offers adjustment, known as a "dial back" timing light). The scale on the distributor mount is not necessarily accurate if the distributor has been installed a tooth off for example.
You don't want more than 32 degrees TOTAL advance, so as you rev the engine watch how far the flash goes beyond the final mark (which is 20 degrees). If it looks like it is near double that, you're near 40 degrees advanced or more... too much! Too much advance and the fuel explodes too soon and makes the engine fight itself. And then it can blow a hole in a piston.
No worries about not knowing all things mechanical (I dont!), we can help guide you! It is important for you to understand how systems work and why (for example, why is ignition advance needed?). That will help you trouble shoot issues and learn your car more and more over time... it's part of the relationship! If you need some understanding, there likely are places on the Internet that will quickly explain stuff, or you can ask us.
To clarify this particular issue, do carefully remove the necessary part of the distributor so you can better see what you have.

Sorry for the long response time. I just had mid-terms and there's been a lot going on with the 1600. I took a look under the distributor cap today and it is a 7.5. What should I be setting the timing to? It's currently at 12 degrees at idle, no knocking, sounds smooth.

Current problems:
- Cylinder 4 compression - 145 (while all 3 other cylinders are at 170 - warm engine)
- Carburetors need better tuning (probably because of the cylinder?)
-Knocking noise in the driver side rear axle due to metal retainer holding in the bearings was completely mangled (noise only seemed to happen between 25-30 mph). The rear axles are currently at a machine shop getting pressed with the new bearings, collar and metal gaskets.
-The front of the oil pan seems to be leaking, I assume I need a new gasket since there doesn't seem to be a crack. It leaks slowly and only when the car is warm and over 1500 rpm. (constantly happens when messing with the carbs).


Recently fixed problems:
- New clutch slave - old one was leaking (started to grind when shifting)
- Replaced all hoses to the carbs.
- All new fuel line (installed new fuel filter - no vacuum, turns out the old lines were cracked on the underside where it connected to the filter itself).

Thanks again for all the help, tips and information. It's much appreciated.

*Hope to get her up and in roadworthy by next Sunday, the 19th, for the Datsun meet in San Diego*

[Gregs672000]

You have the correct, non- smog ignition curve, so initial timing should be 16 on the crank with a timing light. Check your valve adjustments, set to stock. You can go a bit tighter if they are noisy so long as the valve is allowed to seat, but make sure you have some gap or "lash". Do your compression test with the throttle wide open, all plugs out. Some like to prop the SU pistons open. Confirm your compression numbers after you're sure the valves are adjusted properly.
If number 3 is fine but 4 is not, it is not a carb issue as they are fed by the same carb. It could be a balance issue, but less likely than something else. Read your plugs after the engine has been run for some time, best done with new, clean plugs and actual driving vs idling.
Glad to hear your getting the other issues fixed! Keep posting and we'll get her running her best.

[Matt]

I removed the valve cover today and checked #4.. being the roadster "noob" I am, I set them to 0.017 without the car being warmed up. 0.0205 is the correct adjustment when she's cold right? Probably why when I started her up after a while she started to chunk and knocked when I tried to move the throttle a bit. (my only reasonin is that she would never knock before until I messed with it.. haha). I stopped immediately and tomorrow morning i'll set #4 to 0.0205. Wish I could drive her around, I try to simulate that by holding her at 2000rpm for a decent amount of time till the engine gets to optimum operating temperature. Good news... Parts from Nissan Japan arrive next week! So the rear axle will be put back on soon enough.

Much appreciated.

[Gregs672000]

Matt, I just posted how I adjust valves on the thread "popped the top today". I don't know the equivalent of mm to inches, but I set mine 4-6mm intake and 6-8mm exhaust cold. They will be 2mm looser when hot.