69 U20 into 67 1600

[Blazo]

I have a complete, but rusty, 69 2L donor car with a good running engine and drivetrain. I'm going to swap it into my 67 because I like the tranny and power upgrade it will provide in the low windshield flat dash car. I plan on swapping the whole thing from radiator to rear end. I know some of you guys have done this swap. What mods will be required to complete it? Did Nissan use stiffer front springs on 2L cars? Any help greatly appreciated.

[JT68]

67 or 67.5? There are some subtle differences that affect the swap. For the most part it all bolts in. JT

The quick check for 67.5 is three toggle switches on the dash, not four. All single gauges? no combo gauges = 67)

Same front springs.

J

[Blazo]

Thanks, it is a 67.

[spl310]

The rear Springs are stiffer in the 67.

[JT68]

Since you have a 67, here are a couple points:

The tunnel will have to be cut for a new opening for the shifter since that is in a different location. I do manufacture a trim plate/decal etc for 67 5-speed conversion. Compare the 2L location. Easy with a jig saw or plasma cutter.

The 67 4-speed transmission cross member gets dropped down to only use the lower 4 bolts. (Plenty strong, no worries)

As I recall, the passenger floor/tunnel area may need a slight modification since the speedo cable location with the 5speed is different. Aftermarket speedo cables fit better because the nut that attaches the cable is smaller. Look at the floor of the 2L and you will see a small raised section to clear the cable that can guide you. Requires some fabrication.


Use 2l driveshaft, radiator and starter as you mention. You will want to relocate the alternator to the same location in the 67. I build a kit for that too .

Have to extend temp gauge wire.

There is more, but these tips immediately come to mind...j

[spl310]

There's also a brace in the tunnel that needs to be addressed.

[dbrick]

I have what you're building, love it.
1600 would have a 3.90 rear vs the 3.70, may as well use it if it's good, slightly better in 1st gear, no big loss on 5th. If it's in the budget, have the 5 speed driveshaft balanced and make a matchmark where the halves go together. So many have been made frmm mismatched ends over the years. I don't know if the tach will be damaged if you pin it, but a 67 2000 tach is harder to find.

[spl310]

There should already be a match mark

[kenw]

Where are you located, and what are your plans for the old engine?

[Daniel]

Thanks for everyone's comments and suggestions. Finally....got it back from body and paint. The U20 and 5 speed are in place and bolted up and I'm making the final connections now. Since the engine is a 69 smog model, the rear carb has a provision (valve) for the fuel return to the tank. 67's don't have a return line. Should I block it off, or "T" it to the supply line from the tank or fuel pump?

[dbrick]

You can just cap it off or get a single hose banjo fitting. Mine is just capped off.
You will want to desmog the engine if it isn't done already. You'll need either an early distributor, a desmog kit, or go with an EI. If your 1600 distributor is non-smog, you can use it and swap the 2000 vacuum advance.Timing is set to match the distributor, 16 deg for de-smog and 0 deg for stock 69.

[Daniel]

Turns out the distributor installed in the 67 1600 had been replaced at some point with a 17.5 curve. So now I have two perfectly good smog distributors. Go figure. Now I'm on the hunt for an early distributor, or just thinking of biting the bullet and going in for the IE. Thoughts?

[GoldHawg]

This is a no brainer from all of the posts from people that have gone to EI dizzy; its usually said to be the single best mod done on a Datsun. So if you have the funds, bite the bullet.

[cktrap]

Go EFI unless you like to tinker with points. I figured I did enough of that back in the day