help with my 68 top
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- Zedyone_Kenobi
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help with my 68 top
Well It seems that the otherwise beautiful top on my 68 is not giving me issues. It never had this problem before, but no idea why it is has started now. When I fold the top up to give it a good stretch every now and then, I cannot get the center clamp to stay clamped. It never quiet goes over center any more. And wit the slightest bump, it pops back open. I have taken the top off since I bought it to replace all the interior, so perhaps it is a bit out of alignment.
I have plans to try to fix this.
Step 1: I will loosen the two bolts in back that hold it in and then try to close it
Step 2: ??????
Any advice?
I hardly ever use the top, but on the off chance I get caught in the rain I have to take the boot cover off and get some protection.
I have plans to try to fix this.
Step 1: I will loosen the two bolts in back that hold it in and then try to close it
Step 2: ??????
Any advice?
I hardly ever use the top, but on the off chance I get caught in the rain I have to take the boot cover off and get some protection.
1971 240Z (94% done)
1968 2000 Roadster
- Linda
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Re: help with my 68 top
Make sure that the sides of the top frame are fully straight. Push up on each side piece as you bring the top forward to give you more length as they fully straighten and then the top should fit...assuming it is not too cold out.
Hope that makes sense
Linda
Hope that makes sense
Linda
Sadly-Linda has passed away 2022. She was the 311's den mother and drove the first Rare-Parts ball joint project. RIP.
- nismou20
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Re: help with my 68 top
Also good to get those Velcro strips to mount under the top buckles for extra assurance.
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Re: help with my 68 top
I wouldn't loosen the bolts in the back, that may give you another issue. No doubt the problem is simply that it has gone for too long without being stretched. It would be better to leave it up for extended periods. To solve the current problem can you use the clamp to hold tension on the top by putting and holding pressure against it with a piece of wood such as a 2x4 extending from the clamp to the vertical panel behind the seats? Hopefully you would find that you can shim it longer every day by a 1/4 inch or so.Zedyone_Kenobi wrote:Well It seems that the otherwise beautiful top on my 68 is not giving me issues. It never had this problem before, but no idea why it is has started now. When I fold the top up to give it a good stretch every now and then, I cannot get the center clamp to stay clamped. It never quiet goes over center any more. And wit the slightest bump, it pops back open. I have taken the top off since I bought it to replace all the interior, so perhaps it is a bit out of alignment.
I have plans to try to fix this.
Step 1: I will loosen the two bolts in back that hold it in and then try to close it
Step 2: ??????
Any advice?
I hardly ever use the top, but on the off chance I get caught in the rain I have to take the boot cover off and get some protection.
located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
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1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn
- AidanDawn2000
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Re: help with my 68 top
I am having this exact same problem!!! I do the sides and then the middle won't stay latched!
Oil a little low? Time to get a longer dipstick:)
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1969 2000 SRL311-10440 (matching numbers, Solex!)
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1968 2000 SRL311-05110 (first car! Rust Bucket. Sold )
1969 2000 SRL311-10440 (matching numbers, Solex!)
- pebbles
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Re: help with my 68 top
should be a thumb screw above the rear pivot, loosen that and lower it an inch
David
"When we were standing next to the motor while on the dyno, and the motor hit VVL, eyes went watery.."
"When we were standing next to the motor while on the dyno, and the motor hit VVL, eyes went watery.."
- DivinDave
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Re: help with my 68 top
The poping latches is a very common problem that has existed since these cars where all shiny and new. You can loosen the screws that attach the latches to the bow and makes ajustments to the latch tension and you may get all three latches to hold. At least until you eventually hit a bump and then one or more of them will pop open again.
The best solution really is to make a set straps with velcro to go behind the latch and wrap around to secure them. They dont have to have much tension, just enough to hold the latch in the slighty over center closed position.
The best solution really is to make a set straps with velcro to go behind the latch and wrap around to secure them. They dont have to have much tension, just enough to hold the latch in the slighty over center closed position.
Dave
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Re: help with my 68 top
Good idea! I recall my first roadster I had in 1979. I drove with one hand on the wheel and one ready to catch the top from flying back when I went over a bump, and all the latches unbuckled. It was really a skill, especially when it was raining. I don't even think we had velcro back then, but good to know we do now.
PS I wore shorts and and sandels often as well, as water would come through the hole in the side panel to the left of your feet when you went over a puddle.
PS I wore shorts and and sandels often as well, as water would come through the hole in the side panel to the left of your feet when you went over a puddle.
Last edited by ed B on Fri Oct 28, 2016 8:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1969 1600
- Zedyone_Kenobi
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Re: help with my 68 top
Thanks so much, I will try all of these. It will be good to go through all of them. When I bought the car, it worked flawlessly. Felt the latches go over center and slam closed tight. Ever since I put the top back on after the redo, it has exhibited this behavior. I will have to spend more time with it.
1971 240Z (94% done)
1968 2000 Roadster
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Re: help with my 68 top
Anyone can correct me it I am wrong -I have noticed that the latches don't all work correctly together, however it will be impossible to get them to all work if you don't have the spacer installed behind the center latch. The center will latch but will cause the two outside ones to always come apart with out the spacer installed. I have seen a lot of these with the spacer missing.
1969 1600
- dbrick
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Re: help with my 68 top
Exactly what I was going to say. Without the spacer, nothing lines up right. Also, is your bow bent? telltale is a depression on the outside in the center of the hollow metal top bow, basically above the center clamp. The bent bow, usually caused by a missing spacer, will throw it all off. Velcro straps have the added bonus of stopping the clamps from rattling when the top is down.ed B wrote:Anyone can correct me it I am wrong -I have noticed that the latches don't all work correctly together, however it will be impossible to get them to all work if you don't have the spacer installed behind the center latch. The center will latch but will cause the two outside ones to always come apart with out the spacer installed. I have seen a lot of these with the spacer missing.
Dave Brisco
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- cktrap
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Re: help with my 68 top
I've had two 70 models and a 68 parts car and I can't recall the spacer. I also can't recall what I did last week, lol. Can someone please post a picture to tickle my brain.
Thanks
Keith
Thanks
Keith
'70 SRL311
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- Zedyone_Kenobi
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Re: help with my 68 top
agree, I have not seen any spacer, can somebody post a pic
1971 240Z (94% done)
1968 2000 Roadster
- pebbles
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Re: help with my 68 top
http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/download/fil ... &mode=view
Zedy your spacer could be under the vinyl.
Zedy your spacer could be under the vinyl.
David
"When we were standing next to the motor while on the dyno, and the motor hit VVL, eyes went watery.."
"When we were standing next to the motor while on the dyno, and the motor hit VVL, eyes went watery.."
- dynaguy
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Re: help with my 68 top
Here's a pic of the spacer. About 3/16-1/4" thick Pat
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