Moderators: notoptoy, S Allen, Solex68
Howdy "neighbor", good the me another New Yorker, we are only 4 hours or so away. Thanks for the helpful hints. I was glad to see I was following most of them except for using water instead of the 50/50 mix. If I read that earlier I would have saved myself some coolantJDeatsch wrote:Hey Ed, (howdy almost neighbor),
Take a read through this that I wrote lo those many years ago. It applies to our Roadsters and most anything else.
I do hope it helps.
http://www.thebriton.com/cool.htm
I don't know about Datsuns but some engines have studs that go through the outer surface of the block and into the water jacket, necessitating the use of thread sealer when when putting those studs in. If this is the case with this stud, simply removing it will tell you. It is possible that the hole did not originally go through to the jacket but that sometime in the past a bolt that was too long was put in the hole, opening the bottom into the jacket. You will want to replace the stud any way but while it is out you can hopefully evaluate the hole to see if it has a crack leading away from it or is just rusted. As Andy B said you may need to drill it oversized and insert a Helicoil. Helicoils are sold in kits at any place that sells any amount of fasteners or bearing and such. You first need to evaluate the condition of the hole, then settle on how big you need to drill it to. Then, you go to the store and get the kit and correct drill for it, and the new stud. If the hole goes through to the water jacket you will of course need to seal both the coil and bolt. I would use a paste type of sealer.ed B wrote:Oh, so you think it is leaking directly through the block at the base of the bolt. I had not thought of that. It would explain why no matter how well I form the gasket, it still leaks.
The bolt is a little pitted at the base. What is a helicoil?
I really, really don't want to take it off again as I finally got that stud to seal....
DivinDave wrote:Sorry to say ed, but your water pump seal is leaking probably because it is failing. The weep hole is so that any coolant that comes past the seal weeps out and doesnt immediately kill the bearing. A new pump is probably in order but a weep like this should not cause an immediate over heat like you are describing, but the pump willl eventually give out. I have actually had a water pump where the impellor was not turning with the shaft as the press fit had failed. Wasnt a datsun, but worth looking at.
As far as filling the coolant a 1600 can be finiky to get the air out. However from your pic this one has a 2 liter style radiator and you described a 2 liter style thermostat outlet as well. These do make a lot of those issues easier but a closed thermostat still makes the filling a slow process. I drill a small 1/8" dia hole in the plate of the Tstat to allow the air to purge easier when filling and this doesnt cause any issues with engine temp control.
If after filling carefully then knowing you have circulation of coolant and there is still an overheat condition, then I hate to tell you a leaking head gasket should be suspected. Yes, you have some good compression numbers, but it is still possible. A leak down test or a combustion gas check of the cooling system is in order to see if this is happening.
After checking every other possibility with my 1600 I finally cured the overheat with a new head gasket and all the associated stuff of a head rebuild. Mine ran well but overheated after short runs. It also had good compressions and seemed fine otherwise. I hope your issue turns out to be something more simple. Good luck.
Thanks Jason. I did, just in time for winter to come and then took it off the road. I have a few items I want to take care of before I put it on the road again. It appears I now need to replace the water pump and I also need to replace the valve guide seals (it is burning oil in the exhaust). The compression is good so it appears the rings and valves themselves are ok. My brother is going to help me sometime to do the job. We need to add compressed air into the cylinders to prevent the valves from falling into the cylinders when we replace the guides (that way we won't have to remove the head).jheck wrote:Good news Ed! Did you ever get your inspection passed?