Dash cap installatoin
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- spl310
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Re: Dash cap installatoin
The chrome strip is in the third picture. I think that it finishes that area nicely
"Wow, a Roadster!" Stuart Little
1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2006 Acura MDX
2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI wagon
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
More...
1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2006 Acura MDX
2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI wagon
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
More...
- Zedyone_Kenobi
- Roadster Fanatic
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- Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2014 8:27 am
- Location: League City, Texas
Re: Dash cap installatoin
It does look absolutely splendid! But I do not think my 68 has the holes drilled for it. I will probably just go with the OEM set up sans chrome strip.
Maybe if it is something I can add later I may try to retrofit it.
No updates on the car... been playing with the boys and started watching season 21 of Top Gear. Did not realize I missed it.
Maybe if it is something I can add later I may try to retrofit it.
No updates on the car... been playing with the boys and started watching season 21 of Top Gear. Did not realize I missed it.

1971 240Z (94% done)
1968 2000 Roadster
- spl310
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Re: Dash cap installatoin
It can be added later easily. My only two cautions are, obviously don't drill too deep, and use stainless screws
"Wow, a Roadster!" Stuart Little
1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2006 Acura MDX
2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI wagon
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
More...
1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2006 Acura MDX
2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI wagon
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
More...
- bakerjf
- Site Supporter
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- Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2011 5:48 pm
Re: Dash cap installatoin
It's been a 2/3 years, but like I said the "pad" comes predrilled - so without the strip you'd see the holes along the top...spl310 wrote:It can be added later easily. My only two cautions are, obviously don't drill too deep, and use stainless screws
J. Baker
Lafayette, CA
'69 2000 (Solex)
Lafayette, CA
'69 2000 (Solex)
- spl310
- Roadster Guru
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- Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2002 10:38 pm
- Location: In front of this keyboard... in Jacksonville, Florida!
Re: Dash cap installatoin
Its the drilling through the sheet metal that is the issue on the 68s as they are not pre drilled
"Wow, a Roadster!" Stuart Little
1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2006 Acura MDX
2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI wagon
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
More...
1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2006 Acura MDX
2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI wagon
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
More...
- Zedyone_Kenobi
- Roadster Fanatic
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- Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2014 8:27 am
- Location: League City, Texas
Re: Dash cap installatoin
Well that sucks.
The ones I just yanked off did not have any holes. Guess I will need to find some without holes.
The ones I just yanked off did not have any holes. Guess I will need to find some without holes.

1971 240Z (94% done)
1968 2000 Roadster
- Zedyone_Kenobi
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- Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2014 8:27 am
- Location: League City, Texas
Re: Dash cap installatoin
Well the saga continues today folks.
I had a friday off and managed to get the dash out of the car. For those men or women who have removed the dash without removing the drivers seat, let me say my hat is off to you!!
The whole process took about 2 hours if I was actually counting time and let me just be the first to say I would rather rebuild an engine, blindfolded.
Truthfully the job is not that bad if you take your time and look three times before you touch anything. The car is insanely simple (as you said John) I did manage to get the entire dash out with only cutting the black clock wire, as I just could not get my hand in there in a position with enough strength to pull the old connector apart. Other than that, everything came out with ease. I took many pictures and made many cryptic and most likely soon to be forgotten symbols to help me remember where everything goes. After inhaling 48 years of dust and dirt and debris, I am sure I will soon contract a third world respiratory disease.
in a few days.
Comments on removal.
I found that whenever I looked at something and it seemed impossible to get to it was always a matter of removing something else first. Work from the bottom of the gages to the top. I found that really helped. Loosening up the steering column as you suggested John was a true help as well.
Now that I have the dash off I began to assess the situation.
I will start by removing all the hardware / gages from the existing dash. That should give me the most space to clamp things. Then the long and necessary process of cleaning every nut bolt and screw and thread. I started with the clock, as it had a strange rattle inside. Well it seems that during its life, the previous owner had lost 3 bulbs inside the thing. I had to laugh. I plan to polish all the chrome trim rings and replace/restore all the bake-a-lite plastic knobs I 'went ahead' and ripped all the vinyl off the foot wells and will replace with new cars and new cut vinyl. I will probably ahead and replace the carpet as well and order new stainless trim for the doors and sills. Yup, list is growing.
I would not mind putting in new bulbs to brighten things up either. But I may not, as I like the pale light. Just seems to fit.
I am thinking I should remove some of the existing dash padding to help it fit better. Especially on the top. Some of the padding is warped and will prove difficult to get the new cap to stick to a warped dash. Part of me wants to remove ALL the old dash padding from the top of the dash.
Comments on that would be appreciated.
Here are some pics.










I took lots of pictures of the glove box in case anybody was trying to build one form the www.datsunparts.com kit. They are about to get a large order from me I am afraid.
That is going to hurt.
Having said that, after I get the cap on, and secured, I will begin thinking about all the other things I want to do. I want to get all the air control cables redone. I would like to get the heater core checked and or replaced. But man, It is in there. Not sure how hard it will be to get out. I am going to clean all the funk behind there. Take out the vent control panel and clean all those levers so they moved like butter again. I did this in my Z and it makes such a difference in the operation of the ventilation system. It would be a good time to replace all the hoses back there.
I am definitely going to sand down and respray the ignition mechanism and clamp on the column. Would be nice to have that looking spiffy.
I am decidedly glad I did this. It will be a several month project, but I will be able to know all is well when I am done. Also any recommendations on how to clean all the terminals safely. The exposed ones, are easy, but the white connectors, I would really like to get in there and get that brass shined up and corrosion free.
More to come! Stay tuned.
P.S. What I am looking forward to the LEAST is putting that critter back in. All those wires to hook up and keep in place. Well we will cross that bridge when I get to it I suppose.
Wish me luck. Going to take the rest of the day off and spend tomorrow celebrating my kids birthday
I had a friday off and managed to get the dash out of the car. For those men or women who have removed the dash without removing the drivers seat, let me say my hat is off to you!!

The whole process took about 2 hours if I was actually counting time and let me just be the first to say I would rather rebuild an engine, blindfolded.

Truthfully the job is not that bad if you take your time and look three times before you touch anything. The car is insanely simple (as you said John) I did manage to get the entire dash out with only cutting the black clock wire, as I just could not get my hand in there in a position with enough strength to pull the old connector apart. Other than that, everything came out with ease. I took many pictures and made many cryptic and most likely soon to be forgotten symbols to help me remember where everything goes. After inhaling 48 years of dust and dirt and debris, I am sure I will soon contract a third world respiratory disease.

Comments on removal.
I found that whenever I looked at something and it seemed impossible to get to it was always a matter of removing something else first. Work from the bottom of the gages to the top. I found that really helped. Loosening up the steering column as you suggested John was a true help as well.
Now that I have the dash off I began to assess the situation.
I will start by removing all the hardware / gages from the existing dash. That should give me the most space to clamp things. Then the long and necessary process of cleaning every nut bolt and screw and thread. I started with the clock, as it had a strange rattle inside. Well it seems that during its life, the previous owner had lost 3 bulbs inside the thing. I had to laugh. I plan to polish all the chrome trim rings and replace/restore all the bake-a-lite plastic knobs I 'went ahead' and ripped all the vinyl off the foot wells and will replace with new cars and new cut vinyl. I will probably ahead and replace the carpet as well and order new stainless trim for the doors and sills. Yup, list is growing.
I would not mind putting in new bulbs to brighten things up either. But I may not, as I like the pale light. Just seems to fit.
I am thinking I should remove some of the existing dash padding to help it fit better. Especially on the top. Some of the padding is warped and will prove difficult to get the new cap to stick to a warped dash. Part of me wants to remove ALL the old dash padding from the top of the dash.
Comments on that would be appreciated.
Here are some pics.










I took lots of pictures of the glove box in case anybody was trying to build one form the www.datsunparts.com kit. They are about to get a large order from me I am afraid.

Having said that, after I get the cap on, and secured, I will begin thinking about all the other things I want to do. I want to get all the air control cables redone. I would like to get the heater core checked and or replaced. But man, It is in there. Not sure how hard it will be to get out. I am going to clean all the funk behind there. Take out the vent control panel and clean all those levers so they moved like butter again. I did this in my Z and it makes such a difference in the operation of the ventilation system. It would be a good time to replace all the hoses back there.
I am definitely going to sand down and respray the ignition mechanism and clamp on the column. Would be nice to have that looking spiffy.
I am decidedly glad I did this. It will be a several month project, but I will be able to know all is well when I am done. Also any recommendations on how to clean all the terminals safely. The exposed ones, are easy, but the white connectors, I would really like to get in there and get that brass shined up and corrosion free.
More to come! Stay tuned.
P.S. What I am looking forward to the LEAST is putting that critter back in. All those wires to hook up and keep in place. Well we will cross that bridge when I get to it I suppose.
Wish me luck. Going to take the rest of the day off and spend tomorrow celebrating my kids birthday


1971 240Z (94% done)
1968 2000 Roadster
- theunz
- Roadster Nut-Site Supporter
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- Model: 2000
- Year: High Windshield-68-70
Re: Dash cap installatoin
Let us know when your ready to lift the body off the frame. I think your headed there
...Mike

Mike M
Old enough to know better, too old to remember why!
1969 2000 solex mine since 1972, under resurrection. (Finally resurrected as of spring 2019!)
1969 Porsche 911s -worth more, but not as valuable! Gone!
2017 Lotus Evora 400 - Oh my!!
Old enough to know better, too old to remember why!
1969 2000 solex mine since 1972, under resurrection. (Finally resurrected as of spring 2019!)
1969 Porsche 911s -worth more, but not as valuable! Gone!
2017 Lotus Evora 400 - Oh my!!
-
- Roadster Fanatic-Site Supporter
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- Location: Vancouver, Washington
- Model: 1500/1600
- Year: High Windshield-68-70
Re: Dash cap installatoin
Regarding the cracks and removal of the padding-
I would not remove the padding as the cap is made to fit over it. If you remove the pad, it will fit poorly.
I had a couple of good splits in my dash where the crack went thru the padding to the metal. Also, some was coming unbonded.
After a bunch of research, I cut the raised vinyl away wiht a utility knife making a veed 'edge just as you would with most any sort of filler.
Any padding that was lose to the touch was removed along the edges of the openings and the veed padding cut.
Then I used a can of spray expanding foam insulating to fill in the cracks and edges where the padding had been removed. This sstuff is sticky, cover anything you don't want to spend time cleaning.
Once it was sort of to shape, I sanded it with 40 grit and filled the voids that had been missed. Again, block sand with 40 grit.
That let me get the surface pretty even.
Remember, when you install the cap, you're really just gluing it down around the edges and at the openings. Much of the cap is sort of "free floating" so it can expand and contract. All you need is a smooth surface underneath. You may not even need to fill cracks but I figured it couldn't hurt.
Dan
I would not remove the padding as the cap is made to fit over it. If you remove the pad, it will fit poorly.
I had a couple of good splits in my dash where the crack went thru the padding to the metal. Also, some was coming unbonded.
After a bunch of research, I cut the raised vinyl away wiht a utility knife making a veed 'edge just as you would with most any sort of filler.
Any padding that was lose to the touch was removed along the edges of the openings and the veed padding cut.
Then I used a can of spray expanding foam insulating to fill in the cracks and edges where the padding had been removed. This sstuff is sticky, cover anything you don't want to spend time cleaning.
Once it was sort of to shape, I sanded it with 40 grit and filled the voids that had been missed. Again, block sand with 40 grit.
That let me get the surface pretty even.
Remember, when you install the cap, you're really just gluing it down around the edges and at the openings. Much of the cap is sort of "free floating" so it can expand and contract. All you need is a smooth surface underneath. You may not even need to fill cracks but I figured it couldn't hurt.
Dan
SPL311 aka Skooter. Sold. Now wasting away in the SF area.
1990 Nissan 300zx. Sold this one too.
2018 VW Tiguan
1990 Nissan 300zx. Sold this one too.
2018 VW Tiguan
- bakerjf
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 1391
- Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2011 5:48 pm
Re: Dash cap installatoin
Congrats on the dash. When it's all said and done you'll be much happier with the cap, and it's good bonding time with the car.
As to the dash light bulbs, Motorsport Auto (the Z guys) used to sell instrument bulbs that were something like 4 watts instead of the standard 3 watts (I think). It doesn't sound like much, but it's a 25% brighter bulb and for people with increasingly bad night vision (like me), it makes a big difference.
http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/ ... 03/45-4327
As to the dash light bulbs, Motorsport Auto (the Z guys) used to sell instrument bulbs that were something like 4 watts instead of the standard 3 watts (I think). It doesn't sound like much, but it's a 25% brighter bulb and for people with increasingly bad night vision (like me), it makes a big difference.
http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/ ... 03/45-4327
Last edited by bakerjf on Fri Feb 12, 2016 6:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
J. Baker
Lafayette, CA
'69 2000 (Solex)
Lafayette, CA
'69 2000 (Solex)
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Re: Dash cap installatoin
greydog
Good write up on the dash, you might consider led dash bulbs.
nissantoy
Good write up on the dash, you might consider led dash bulbs.
nissantoy
- bakerjf
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Re: Dash cap installatoin
When I had my instruments out I took them over to North Hollywood Speedometer out here in LA to have them gone through and serviced. They did that, and also replaced the cheap plastic lenses with instrument glass and converted my clock over to a reliable movement. They looked new when I got them back and have worked perfectly since.
As to the connectors, vintageconnections.com sells all the connectors/plugs/pins for this car. They also sell an extraction tool that will help you pop the pins out of the back of the plugs. If you want to clean those like you mentioned, I recommend a little wad of "never dull" and a microfiber towel. Takes a grand total of 5-6 seconds to make each connector look new. Also good to use for squeezing onto a Q-tip and cleaning the fuse box clips...
Sweet-looking garage btw!
As to the connectors, vintageconnections.com sells all the connectors/plugs/pins for this car. They also sell an extraction tool that will help you pop the pins out of the back of the plugs. If you want to clean those like you mentioned, I recommend a little wad of "never dull" and a microfiber towel. Takes a grand total of 5-6 seconds to make each connector look new. Also good to use for squeezing onto a Q-tip and cleaning the fuse box clips...
Sweet-looking garage btw!
J. Baker
Lafayette, CA
'69 2000 (Solex)
Lafayette, CA
'69 2000 (Solex)
- Zedyone_Kenobi
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- Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2014 8:27 am
- Location: League City, Texas
Re: Dash cap installatoin
I am curious about North Hollywood speedometer. I found your review John on the website.
I have no issues with the function of any of my gages, even my clock works, but I would not mind the glass conversion at all. That sounds well worth the money. Can you PM me and give me some idea of price?
Thanks on the garage compliments. It is usually cleaner than that, I had not mopped it in 2 weeks. It is overdue. Yes, I am a clean freak. I feel like I can do better work when I clean as I go and keep parts free of debris. Also makes finding dropped washers VERY easy
I have no issues with the function of any of my gages, even my clock works, but I would not mind the glass conversion at all. That sounds well worth the money. Can you PM me and give me some idea of price?
Thanks on the garage compliments. It is usually cleaner than that, I had not mopped it in 2 weeks. It is overdue. Yes, I am a clean freak. I feel like I can do better work when I clean as I go and keep parts free of debris. Also makes finding dropped washers VERY easy


1971 240Z (94% done)
1968 2000 Roadster
- pebbles
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Re: Dash cap installatoin
Zedyone_Kenobi wrote: After inhaling 48 years of dust and dirt and debris, I am sure I will soon contract a third world respiratory disease.in a few days.
![]()
um,, you inhaled alot because i dont see one spec of fod in there.


David
"When we were standing next to the motor while on the dyno, and the motor hit VVL, eyes went watery.."
"When we were standing next to the motor while on the dyno, and the motor hit VVL, eyes went watery.."
- Zedyone_Kenobi
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Re: Dash cap installatoin
I clean a lot as I go
I cannot wait to start cleaning all the inner dash and wires
It would be a crime not to
But uh yeah
Not sure who inhaled more
Me or the shop vac
I cannot wait to start cleaning all the inner dash and wires
It would be a crime not to
But uh yeah
Not sure who inhaled more
Me or the shop vac

1971 240Z (94% done)
1968 2000 Roadster