Okay made some more progress. I got off the ALL the bolts holding the dash on. Including the ones to the air vents controls. I also started to unhook all the connections to the speedometer. Save ONE. There is a hard line connector that seems to go from the trip reset control knob to the back of the speedometer cable. It looks hard and metallic. Does it simply press into the back of the speedometer, or do you have to unscrew it. Lightly tugging on it did nothing.
Also, the next gage up is the tach. I can see the tach drive from the dizzy going into the back of that. But I will be damned if I can see a way to get my hand to it. Is is possible to pull out the dash an inch or two to try to gain some access to that and to the upper light bulbs in the speedometer. I was not blessed with long elegant fingers. I have 'blacksmith' hands if you will.
John, any advice? So far all things have gone smoothly and no oooops have happened.
There is a tiny Phillips set screw holding the trip cable on.
Mike M
Old enough to know better, too old to remember why!
1969 2000 solex mine since 1972, under resurrection. (Finally resurrected as of spring 2019!)
1969 Porsche 911s -worth more, but not as valuable! Gone!
2017 Lotus Evora 400 - Oh my!!
bakerjf wrote:Check in with me when you do the windshield pad set installation!!
I'd be interested in any available tips on that myself.
Keith
The main thing is that if you don't own a Dremel-type tool with some grinding tips, get/order one from Harbor Frieght (less than $20). While it does have cut out holes already, the pad set really needs to be custom-fitted to your car. The material that it is made from (hard) is easily adapted to fit with that tool. Also, Dean recommends "gorilla-gluing" the pads that run along the sides; I do not. The top of each side is secured to the car with the convertible top latch, the bottom is wedged between the dash and the body. The middle can be easily secured using some 3M double-sided strips. The set looks great btw, but it takes a little patience for it to come out right.
Good advice on the windshield surround. I am not there yet. I still have to order it. And before I do that, I need to clean up all that black goop left on the paint. I am sure goo gone will do the trick.
Question, on Deans, webpage, he mentions chrome trim holding it in. What the heck is he talking about. I do not see any chrome trim
Zedyone_Kenobi wrote:Good advice on the windshield surround. I am not there yet. I still have to order it. And before I do that, I need to clean up all that black goop left on the paint. I am sure goo gone will do the trick.
Question, on Deans, webpage, he mentions chrome trim holding it in. What the heck is he talking about. I do not see any chrome trim
I think he means the chrome strip that runs along the top. That piece lines up over the top portion of the pad, which you'll need that tool to line up correctly. IIRC, 1970 cars didn't include that piece of trim... Anyway, the side portions of that pad set need something to affix the pads to the body - hence the double-sided glue strips.
bakerjf wrote:Check in with me when you do the windshield pad set installation!!
I'd be interested in any available tips on that myself.
Keith
The main thing is that if you don't own a Dremel-type tool with some grinding tips, get/order one from Harbor Frieght (less than $20). While it does have cut out holes already, the pad set really needs to be custom-fitted to your car. The material that it is made from (hard) is easily adapted to fit with that tool. Also, Dean recommends "gorilla-gluing" the pads that run along the sides; I do not. The top of each side is secured to the car with the convertible top latch, the bottom is wedged between the dash and the body. The middle can be easily secured using some 3M double-sided strips. The set looks great btw, but it takes a little patience for it to come out right.
Thanks for the tip on the doubled-sided tape. I'm getting ready to put mine in and I think I'll go that route instead of the glue. Definitely would be easier to correct with the tape than with the glue. Plus Gorilla glue expands and I'd hate to have put on too much on and have it start seeping out of the edges.
Robert Ellis
Saratoga Springs, UT
1969 SRL311
1969 SRL311-07332
Matching numbers
1966 Mustang Coupe
Spl310 brought up a good point. If they are not on my car, then I would not want you to put much effort into it. My 68 was pretty complete from the PO who did a very decent job on the restoration. I would be surprised if he left off trim on my car.
Last picture shows the chrome strip that runs along the top and holds that part of the pad set in place. I really liked the final result, but its not a simple "plug and play" type of deal.
image.jpeg
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