As I am going through this 1970 SPL to SRL conversion I picked up I am doing the bodywork currently.
The previous owner had spot welded chunks of wire mesh into the rot holes on the corners of the trunk lid with the intent of blobbing bondo in there. I have a "no bondo" rule. I've now added a no chicken wire and no wire mesh rule. As you can see, all of that got lopped off and I hand formed new sections for the corners & welded them in.
This is side #1, the last pic you can see side #2 is still to be done at that time (all done now).
I'm using 0.30 flux core with a 120v harbor freight wire feed welder turned low. I deliberately use a 120v turned low to avoid any burn through. The welding wire I use is the Item # 62544 at harbor freight (20 bucks a roll). Their flux core lays down really nicely. Their non flux core is junk (avoid it).
I weld it as tack spots roughly every 1 to 2 inches all the way around, then repeat again offsetting from the first set of spots (next to them). That way the first spot is cool by the time I put a spot beside it.
After it is welded all the way around, I grind it with a 7" angle grinder, then repeat the welds on any open spots. I repeat this until everything is smooth and welded solid. I bend and adjust the steel as I go and hand form any small adjustments as I weld. I also wire wheel it as well between weld sets if needed to remove any crud.
I have more pics coming up if it is of interest for reference (always glad to share) as I am currently rebuilding the bottom of the door post (I've been taking pics as I go), and the drivers side fender is up next (the classic rot spot at the bottom). That is cut off and the new steel is cut, hand formed and ready for welding.
No problem at all. I found enough cell pics to show the sequence. First shot you can see the spacing to allow the metal to cool. Don't try to run a bead, that's when you burn through.
And here is when I was fixing the bow for the soft top.
