This seems, on the surface, a lot of money for an engine. I understand it's a more than a rebuilt engine. Someday, I'm wanting to put a solex 2L in a car that presently has a 1600. This is just plain scaring me about how mush that'll cost me. I'm under the impression that a 67.5 solex car in excellent condition is worth around $12K. Given the 67.5 solex listed along with it, isn't he asking for some strange questions. Is he dreaming or am I? Thanks in advance.Hi All:
Got a few things to list from abandened projects
First is a complete U20 solex drive train
solex kit brand new still in the box , 4000.00
solex cam shaft new in the box 300.00
Head still in the box 2000.00
block assembly balanced 500.00
flywheel lightened with clutch 300.00
new psitons with rings 400.00
complete timing setup 1200.00
solex oil pan 800.00
trans rebiult 2000.00
the guy has given up on the project and wants me to sell it all off.
it is valued at over $12,000.00
I can break it up or sell it all for S10,000.00
Also have a 67.5 2000 matching numbered solex car $5000.00
2L pricing
Moderators: notoptoy, S Allen, Solex68
- Ponder
- Roadster Nut
- Posts: 65
- Joined: Tue Dec 31, 2002 4:33 pm
- Location: Jasper, IN
- Model: 1500/1600
- Year: High Windshield-68-70
2L pricing
Forgive the newbie question. This was posted on the Mailing List:
I drank what? -- Socrates
- SLOroadster
- Roadsteraholic
- Posts: 5360
- Joined: Sun Dec 08, 2002 2:53 am
- Location: Napa Ca
Solex
The solex stuff is hard to find, and very pricy when you find it new. Those prices are about right for new stuff. The good thing is that you can find most of that used but still in good shape for much less. If you are looking for a 67.5 2000 in good shape, be prepaired to spend a lot of money on it. If you want to build a U20 up, buy a used one, and rebuild it. The head is ususally good, (however some say that its design is the weakest link of the engine due to the fact that they can warp easily if the car overheats.) The block, crank, and connecting rods are nearly indestructable, so dropping one in your 1600 won't be that bad. If you want to run solexs, finding the correct linkage is the hard part. The intake is diffucult to find, but the throttle linkage is impossible to find. (I have been looking for more than a year for a set, still no luck.) The big oil pan is uncommon, but not impossible to find as well. The solex cam works well with SUs and are easy to find.
-Will
-Will
67 2000
Most of the prices are about right. The 2000 head is about double what I have seen them sell for elsewhere and the carbs are a bit high, but not much. On the subject of a 2000, there are plenty of 67 2000s out there. You just have to look. I have one that is for sale, but that may change soon as the motivation to sell it is going away. It is a Solex car as well.
The parts are quoted as new. Complete NOS Solex setups are almost impossible to find. Air cleaner housings are NLA.
A brand new in the nox 2000 head can get expensive but it's never been cut.
The prices are high but that is the case for U20 parts. If you are looking to update your 1600 why not go for a stroker? You get the go power you want without nearly as much money.
If that doesn't suit you, consider an engine swap- possibly a KA24 or an SR20. Much easier to get parts for.
Good Luck
A brand new in the nox 2000 head can get expensive but it's never been cut.
The prices are high but that is the case for U20 parts. If you are looking to update your 1600 why not go for a stroker? You get the go power you want without nearly as much money.
If that doesn't suit you, consider an engine swap- possibly a KA24 or an SR20. Much easier to get parts for.
Good Luck
- Ponder
- Roadster Nut
- Posts: 65
- Joined: Tue Dec 31, 2002 4:33 pm
- Location: Jasper, IN
- Model: 1500/1600
- Year: High Windshield-68-70
Thanks for the replies.
I'm looking for a car to replace my autocrosser. My cousin wants to sell me a '68 1600 that he's had in a storage barn for a while. It's had some mods to it. Coilovers, new wheels, roll bar, and it's pretty stiffly sprung, moreso than I'd guess you'd get from just the coilovers. So...with the mods it fits into C-Street Prepared, same class as the 2L. I haven't gotten a complete copy of the Solo II rules, but I don't think a stroker would be allowed in CSP, even though it wouldn't give you a performance edge over a stock 2L.
So, I though I'd drive the 1600 in CSP for a year or so and some day get a 2L to drop in. I think to be competitive in CSP, I'll need the HP of the 2L and probably the solex version. I suppose, if I go slow enough, I can piece part this in.
Otherwise, I could find stock parts (stock size wheels
) and run it in H stock. I keep thinking it would be competitive there. It'd be running against the new Mini (non S). I would think that the HP/weight would be pretty close.
I'm looking for a car to replace my autocrosser. My cousin wants to sell me a '68 1600 that he's had in a storage barn for a while. It's had some mods to it. Coilovers, new wheels, roll bar, and it's pretty stiffly sprung, moreso than I'd guess you'd get from just the coilovers. So...with the mods it fits into C-Street Prepared, same class as the 2L. I haven't gotten a complete copy of the Solo II rules, but I don't think a stroker would be allowed in CSP, even though it wouldn't give you a performance edge over a stock 2L.
So, I though I'd drive the 1600 in CSP for a year or so and some day get a 2L to drop in. I think to be competitive in CSP, I'll need the HP of the 2L and probably the solex version. I suppose, if I go slow enough, I can piece part this in.
Otherwise, I could find stock parts (stock size wheels

I drank what? -- Socrates