The inner lips of the bias ply tires are closer together than the radial tires. When they tried to fill the tires with air. they couldn't get the lips to seal to the wheel. The steel wheels are about 4 inches wide and the inner lip of the tire is maybe 1.5 inches wide (before stretching.. I'm sure there is a trick to getting it to work, but these guys couldn't figure.
I believe WAAAYYY back when, I seem to vaguely remember tires being mounted and they used a small rubber inner tube type donut of rubber, like a bike tube. They used the bike tube to seal it until the tire would pop into place when they inflated it, very rapidly. I could be dreaming this as I was a mere pup of a child when this was done. It was a very loud pop, I remember that much for sure.
"When all else fails, force prevails!" Ummm, we're gonna need a bigger hammer here.
I have seen both the compressed air ring used as well as a HD ratcheting hold down strap placed around the circumference of the tire cinched down enough to push the beads outward. The beads usually would seat enough without high pressure so that the strap could be removed before full inflation. Another, more creative, method involves spraying a flammable liquid (e.g. hair spray) into the space around the bead and lighting it. The explosion pops the bead into place. The trick is judging the amount to spray. I have only seen videos but it works - probably best watched from across the street! These clever young men get it right on their third try: " onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
You could do that at home and take the wheels and have them balanced at the shop. Personally I like the hair spray video. But I'm sure the white walls may catch a little scorch mark and defeat the purpose. But when the wheel popped I LOL!!
Jujuman
Red 67.5 SPL311-13263 motor seized 2024
Maroon 67.5 SPL311- 12162 in progress.
Gold 65 SPL311-01613 (in boxes)
I've done them both and prefer to use starting fluid. Never had any trouble.. Works great on lawn tractor tires get the right mix and you don't even have to air them up!
Keith
Charlee0620 and I removed the frame off the parts car and stripped most of the good stuff off the shell. It's on the trailer ready for the scrap yard. It has rendered many good parts , but it's time to move on. There is only so much room available. If anyone is interested I have two good fenders and two good doors. Its's a '68.
Keith
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
cktrap wrote:If anyone is interested I have two good fenders and two good doors. Its's a '68.
Keith
I need two '68 fenders so bad. Too bad I'm all the way up in MA.
Jordan
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
Got the R16 block back from the machine shop. Bored .010, cleaned, new cam bearings, mains checked for size and alignment. Flywheel lightened but only a little (2.6lb). Shold be a good engine, mains and rods are standard bore, just polished the crank a little. Bores were got at standard but needed to bore to accept the H20 pistons.
Cleaned the bores, installed the H20 cam and lifters. Got the crank clearances checked and the thrust set (measures .0036). Main clearance is pretty consistent at .0016/.0018".
Hopefully, by the end of the weekend I'll have the pistons installed and can begin to button up the block.
I know it's Valentines weekend but hey, it's her car...
Dan
SPL311 aka Skooter. Sold. Now wasting away in the SF area.
1990 Nissan 300zx. Sold this one too.
2018 VW Tiguan