Wheel stud replacements-68 2000

[One Way]

Looking for some info a bit ahead still on my project roadster. The car has some OK looking aftermarket rims-hope to get them cleaned and maybe powdercoated when I get to that level in the project-but the wheel studs
seem much too short and 3 of them were crossthreaded when I removed all the wheels for getting the car on jackstands. There are 1/4" thick wheel spacers between the rims and the hubs. The end of the studs are below the face of the rim about 1/4" and the special designed lug nuts mount into the recess of the rims but judging by the clean thread area inside the lug nuts only about 3/8" of the stud actually goes into the lug nut. Not very safe in my estimation and remounting the rims is a real chore due to the short studs. Probably why some of the threads were crossed up. Any recommendations or suggestions? I am currently working on the brake system and will be removing the rotors and drums soon. Not sure on what will be involved with the stud removal and if I will have difficulties locating longer studs with the correct size spline and threads. Thanks in advance, John-Lugoff, SC.

[theunz]

Funny you should ask John, as I am in the process of replacing all my studs. The wiki has info on available studs. I wanted just a little bit longer studs and bought the dorman # 610-259 which are 1 3/4 in long vs the stock rear studs which are 1 1/2 in long. The stock fronts are only 1 1/4 in long. Be aware that I got two different studs with the same part # stamped on the end. The plated ones had a shoulder that was just a tad to long for the rear, but may be just the ticket for the front as the mounting surface is a little thicker. The black studs worked fine in the rear, but would have been better with just a little longer shoulder. I got the studs from O'reilys, but had to go to three stores to get all 16. Mike

[jrusso07]

Summit Racing on line has a great selection of studs and lug/wheel nuts. Decent pricing.

[FergO2k]

Stan's recommendation was always Corvair studs, reports were they were exact fit, and easier found in-stock part number.

[One Way]

Thanks for the help and part #. I have not removed the rear drums yet but wondering how difficult the removal process for the rear studs will be. I will get my micrometer out and determine the longest studs I can use with these rims and lugnuts. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC.

[One Way]

Just amazing how many different style lug nuts Summit Racing has. They call them shank style lug nuts and the ones on my wheels do not come close to the length of the holes in the rims. Mine do have the washers but
the shanks in my opinion should be quite a bit longer. Somewhere in this roadsters past history someone spent a bit of money on aftermarket rims but stopped short of doing the studs and lugs the right way. Maybe the KONI shocks I found on this car while investigating the rear brake lines cut into the budget for doing the wheels and lugs the right way. Definitely some measuring with the micrometer will narrow down the options. Looks like another challenge awaits after the brake project gets done. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC.

[One Way]

The Dorman #610-259 wheel studs work perfectly in the rear axle. They can not be any longer as I do not believe you can get a longer one into the hub without removing the axle. I am going to purchase 15 more studs to do the whole car. I will have to do a bit more research on the shank style lugnuts needed for the rims I have, but looks like Summit Racing has a great selection. I finally got the brake drums off. The pins in the adjuster were seized up. The adjuster screw actually turned quite easily after several days of spraying with Blaster but the shoes obviously would not retract due to the seized pins. Surprisingly the park brake mechanism all seems free and working. Brake line, wheel cylinder, and caliper work the next challenge. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC

[zippy67roadster]

The knurl is listed as .475 for that Dorman 610-259 stud. I bought extended racing studs for my 67 race car project and when I went to put them in yesterday found out that the stock knurl is .445. It was enough that I didn't feel comfortable just trying to press them in. I am lucky I was at Keith Williams' home shop and he was able to turn them down to the stock knurl size. They fit perfectly then.

[Jujuman]

I used Dorman 610-259 from amazon. they worked fine without pulling the rear axle.

[mraitch]

I believe the rear drums have small threaded holes in them, precisely for forcing the drum away from the backing plate. Don't remember pitch or size - maybe someone else does.

[fj20spl311]

I have usually use Dormans 610-259........If its a "new" installation, I taper the knurl on the grinder just a touch to make it easier to get them started straight.

If your wheels require spacers, I would consider epoxying or pinning them to the wheel if you don't plan on rotating your tires.