Parting is such sweet sorrow - steering box
Moderators: notoptoy, S Allen, Solex68
Parting is such sweet sorrow - steering box
I am parting out an early 67. It is far too far gone. I have got the steering box all disconected expect from the rod that goes to the steering wheel. How does that come off? I done everything, including beat on it. Thanks, Mark
- S Allen
- Site Admin
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- Location: Knoxville, IA(Lake Redrock)Emory, TX
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RE:Steering box rod removal
Mark,
You need to remove the bolt that holds in on the splines. The last one I took apart I had to use heat from a propane torch to break it loose. I fasten a set of vice grips on the shaft and use a rubber mallet to wack on it to break it loose.
Steve
You need to remove the bolt that holds in on the splines. The last one I took apart I had to use heat from a propane torch to break it loose. I fasten a set of vice grips on the shaft and use a rubber mallet to wack on it to break it loose.
Steve
66 Stroker-Going Orange
67 SRL311-00279-resto project
Stock '72 240Z-Blue
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 2WD Hauler
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
2009 Smart ForTwo Passion Coupe
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth
67 SRL311-00279-resto project
Stock '72 240Z-Blue
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 2WD Hauler
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
2009 Smart ForTwo Passion Coupe
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth
- S Allen
- Site Admin
- Posts: 4572
- Joined: Thu Dec 05, 2002 4:57 pm
- Location: Knoxville, IA(Lake Redrock)Emory, TX
- Model: 1500/1600
- Year: Low Windshield-64-67.5
- Contact:
RE:Steering Box Linkage Removal
Mark,
That one is a bear to get off. I use two big hammers. You hold one up against one side and whack the other side with the other hammer. Alternate the stationary and the whacking from side to side. It is not going to come right off but keep whacking away until you see it start to budge--and it will loosen up after enough whacking. Been there done that several times. Some PB Blaster cannot hurt either just do not use any open flames on it as it is highly flammable.
I found that out the hard way.
Steve
That one is a bear to get off. I use two big hammers. You hold one up against one side and whack the other side with the other hammer. Alternate the stationary and the whacking from side to side. It is not going to come right off but keep whacking away until you see it start to budge--and it will loosen up after enough whacking. Been there done that several times. Some PB Blaster cannot hurt either just do not use any open flames on it as it is highly flammable.


Steve
66 Stroker-Going Orange
67 SRL311-00279-resto project
Stock '72 240Z-Blue
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 2WD Hauler
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
2009 Smart ForTwo Passion Coupe
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth
67 SRL311-00279-resto project
Stock '72 240Z-Blue
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 2WD Hauler
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
2009 Smart ForTwo Passion Coupe
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth
- spl310
- Roadster Guru
- Posts: 13241
- Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2002 10:38 pm
- Location: In front of this keyboard... in Jacksonville, Florida!
I have a suggestion. Go to Autozone and use their Loan-a-tool program. They should have a ball joint remover. You don't want the "picke fork" type, but rather the one that hooks around the arm and uses a screw to press it off. It should work. You may have to use a penetrant (PB Blaster or Kroil - haven't used Kroil, so cannot comment on it, but PB Blaster is good) and perhaps heat, but I am sure that you can get it off.
Best of luck!
Best of luck!
"Wow, a Roadster!" Stuart Little
1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2006 Acura MDX
2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI wagon
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
More...
1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2006 Acura MDX
2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI wagon
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
More...
Sid, A friend of mine brought over a tool that may be that pick fork tool you described. On one end were two tines of a fork that went from a point to about 1/2 inch thick. Put those fork tines around the pressed on joints and pounded on the other end and presto it came right off. The right tool is an awesome thing! Thanks, Mark
- spl310
- Roadster Guru
- Posts: 13241
- Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2002 10:38 pm
- Location: In front of this keyboard... in Jacksonville, Florida!
Glad it worked! That type of tie rod separator is not the kindest in the world to the parts that are being worked on due to the side stresses and the fact that it destroys any boots that may be there, but it will do the job!
"Wow, a Roadster!" Stuart Little
1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2006 Acura MDX
2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI wagon
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
More...
1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2006 Acura MDX
2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI wagon
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
More...
- S Allen
- Site Admin
- Posts: 4572
- Joined: Thu Dec 05, 2002 4:57 pm
- Location: Knoxville, IA(Lake Redrock)Emory, TX
- Model: 1500/1600
- Year: Low Windshield-64-67.5
- Contact:
RE:Parting Is Such Sweet Sorrow
Mark,
Glad to hear you finally won. Personally I hate the pickle forks as my experience with them they tend to do more damage than good. --But hey-it worked for you. I will stick to my two BFH's as that has always worked for me. Something to do with kinetic energy. I bet some of the banging you did earlier helped some. The right tool for the job is always best.
Steve
Glad to hear you finally won. Personally I hate the pickle forks as my experience with them they tend to do more damage than good. --But hey-it worked for you. I will stick to my two BFH's as that has always worked for me. Something to do with kinetic energy. I bet some of the banging you did earlier helped some. The right tool for the job is always best.

Steve
66 Stroker-Going Orange
67 SRL311-00279-resto project
Stock '72 240Z-Blue
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 2WD Hauler
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
2009 Smart ForTwo Passion Coupe
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth
67 SRL311-00279-resto project
Stock '72 240Z-Blue
2002 Ford F250 7.3 Diesel 2WD Hauler
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
2009 Smart ForTwo Passion Coupe
2013 Fiat 500 Abarth