Bad Temp Sender Gauge on my 1500 ?
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- Roadsteraholic
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Bad Temp Sender Gauge on my 1500 ?
On my 1500 the temp gauge doesn't work when the cars is running.
Now, unlike the 1600, on the positive ground 1500 when the gauge is grounded out it drops down to the bottom (ie, Cold) as it is suppose to. Ungrounded, the gauge reads at the top (ie, Hot) position.
Now, when I turn on the ignition, the temp needles settles from the top range, to the bottom range (as it supposed to do). However, as the car warms up the needle never rises..
I think I may have a bad sender, but wanted to solicit feedback...
To replace the sender , what is the easiest way to actually removed the retaining nut? Is a socket wrench used. Once the retaining nut is removed, does the sender easily come out...or is it a chore?
Thanks for the input & suggestions
Now, unlike the 1600, on the positive ground 1500 when the gauge is grounded out it drops down to the bottom (ie, Cold) as it is suppose to. Ungrounded, the gauge reads at the top (ie, Hot) position.
Now, when I turn on the ignition, the temp needles settles from the top range, to the bottom range (as it supposed to do). However, as the car warms up the needle never rises..
I think I may have a bad sender, but wanted to solicit feedback...
To replace the sender , what is the easiest way to actually removed the retaining nut? Is a socket wrench used. Once the retaining nut is removed, does the sender easily come out...or is it a chore?
Thanks for the input & suggestions
Dan
Houston, TX
Houston, TX
- spl310
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Dan,
The sender may not be bad. They are brass and the head is iron with a steel gland nut holding it all together. Sometimes they come out OK, sometimes you shear off the top of the gland nut. I have had to use a dremel tool to get one out in the past (1600, but the idea is the same).
I would strongly recommend using a 6 point socket and lots of penetrating oil.
I have a 1500 head on the shelf that has had the nut removed, but the sender is not coming out! It will have to be either hammered or drilled out. Not a fun proposition - especially if you slip and screw up the head!
Best of luck!
The sender may not be bad. They are brass and the head is iron with a steel gland nut holding it all together. Sometimes they come out OK, sometimes you shear off the top of the gland nut. I have had to use a dremel tool to get one out in the past (1600, but the idea is the same).
I would strongly recommend using a 6 point socket and lots of penetrating oil.
I have a 1500 head on the shelf that has had the nut removed, but the sender is not coming out! It will have to be either hammered or drilled out. Not a fun proposition - especially if you slip and screw up the head!
Best of luck!
"Wow, a Roadster!" Stuart Little
1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2006 Acura MDX
2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI wagon
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
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1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2006 Acura MDX
2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI wagon
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
More...
- spl310
- Roadster Guru
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- Joined: Sun Dec 29, 2002 10:38 pm
- Location: In front of this keyboard... in Jacksonville, Florida!
The senders are blamed for all the ills of the world sometimes when it is just a matter of corrosion. Still, once you have it out, it does make sense to just put a new one in the hole if they are available for a reasonable price. I think that you should pull it and try another one.
"Wow, a Roadster!" Stuart Little
1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2006 Acura MDX
2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI wagon
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
More...
1967.5 2000
1967.5 2000
1964 1500
1964 1500
1967.5 1600
1968 chassis
2006 Acura MDX
2013 Volkswagen Jetta TDI wagon
1995 F350 Powerstroke!
More...
- itsa68
- Roadsteraholic
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If you have a multimeter, could you test the resistance between the sender contact (with the wire removed) and the retaining nut as the engine warms up?
It might show if something is wrong without having to remove the sender.
Ray B.
It might show if something is wrong without having to remove the sender.
Ray B.
Thats not a R16 death rattle....its a dried leaf hitting my heater blower fan.
1968 SPL311 non-smog
1968 SPL311 non-smog
- dbrick
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You could check resistance from the nut to the sender body and to batt ground (+?).
Could you also just clip a jumper from ground to the sensor body?
I understand that strong vinegar (and a bit of Virgin olive oil, maybe a touch of oregeno if you like ) will help loosen brass/iron/aluminum corrosion. You can soak a rag and leave it wrapped ariound the fitting Good mag wheel cleaner has been known to help too.
A bit of antisieze or dielectric compound on reassembly will help avoid some corrosion later.
Could you also just clip a jumper from ground to the sensor body?
I understand that strong vinegar (and a bit of Virgin olive oil, maybe a touch of oregeno if you like ) will help loosen brass/iron/aluminum corrosion. You can soak a rag and leave it wrapped ariound the fitting Good mag wheel cleaner has been known to help too.
A bit of antisieze or dielectric compound on reassembly will help avoid some corrosion later.
Dave Brisco
Take my advice, I'm not using it"
66 2000 The Bobster
64 1500 in pieces for sale
1980 Fiat X1/9
2009 Volvo C-70
08 Expedition EL, STUPID huge but comfy
1962 Thompson Sea Lancer, possible money pit
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- dbrick
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If it really won't budge, Could you just abandon the old one and put the sensor somewhere else, like the thermostat housing or the intake manifold water passage?
Dave Brisco
Take my advice, I'm not using it"
66 2000 The Bobster
64 1500 in pieces for sale
1980 Fiat X1/9
2009 Volvo C-70
08 Expedition EL, STUPID huge but comfy
1962 Thompson Sea Lancer, possible money pit