Please join me in welcoming a new member to the family!

[TR]

Please join me in welcoming a new member to the family!

Soon to be posted on the 'General' page of the new photo album!

[TR]

Picked her up and drove her home today! Smooth ride, badly chattering clutch, rides a lot heavier than a roadster, dare I say comfortable? The wheels are the best part of the car...Misc. electric issues, and tach and fuel gauge problems, weird squeek in the back end, but steers really well and only has one tiny spot of bondo!

[dbrick]

The proper answer to the survey, I think is "all of the above"

[S Allen]

TR,

The first thing you need to do after the clutch is to loose those carbs if they are stock. The 73 had the emission laden POS SUs. Most people put the SUs from an earlier Z on. Performance is much better. Nice looking car. Pretty clean.

Steve

[dbrick]

TR, If you will be swapping carbs, I picked up a Redline Canon dual Weber 32/36 DGVkit for a 240Z with intake manifolds minus linkage, Let me know if you want it I just want to break even on it, sale or trade.

[TR]

Is that why it is so gutless? I remember my 77 wagon had much more grunt than this Z...But then I got thinking that it was just because I had gotten used to the roadster...

My wife is already laying claim to this as a commuter, so I was thinking of getting an EFI setup from the JY in addition to the clutch and 5 speed...But I could learn to love carbs again. We'll see...

Is the tach electronic or cable? Anything special about the Z fuel gauge I should look at (Ala the voltage regulator on the roadster)?

Thanks for the quick input! TR

[S Allen]

Those carbs are -rap. EFI would be good. The tach is electric. As to the fuel gauge there is not a little voltage regulator ala roadster. Check to make sure the sending unit is not disconnected or corroded at the tank. pretty easy to work on. I love my '72.

Steve

[TR]

Maybe I'll be lucky and find that the tach is not working because of the other power issues, although it acted like a faulty cable driven one. If I tapped on it, it would drop down to 1000RPM, but once I was back up to speed it would ever so slowly crawl up to about 3K and stick there...

The guage is reading zero, so I will check the sender wiring like you mentioned. I also have to track down why the rest of the electrics are iffy, so I might find a common cause...

Are the late 70's intake manifolds interchangable? Is bolting EFI on that easy...?

Oh, and this car was originally orange!

[S Allen]

A later model say 280Z 75-78 fuel injection should bolt right onto the L24 with no problems. It sounds like the tach gauge might be tired. When it is an electrical glitch the tach will bounce around like a mad man. I had a worn out ignition switch that caused me all kinds of grief. I went through three starters before I realized it was a bad switch. My tach would bounce around wildly and the car would die out of the blue. It always started right back up and did not do it with any regularity. A real pain to trouble shoot.

Steve

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[TR]

It was a 77 810 wagon, L24 with EFI. The EFI runs that much stronger than a carb equipped car? More reliable and faster, no way! TR

[Guest]

Quit messin's around and drop that RB25DET in there.

[TR]

This is supposed to be a stock driver for the winter months till I get the 510 done...Maybe after the cash supply recovers from that...

[TR]

Where do I score a new tach?

Dbrick - PM me with the details on the manifold and carbs...

[S Allen]

I might have one but it will take me awhile to dig through a bunch of boxes to look for it. It is not new but it was working when I pulled it out. I will get back to you.

Steve