SR20DE S15 S-spec into a 67.5 "1600" NETHERLANDS

[ladydriver]

bold threads...

Finally got me some RVS (= stainless steel) bolts with UNF thread. Got them new on an oldtimermarket. Now I only have to shop for the 8-32 tapered and threated "crossbolts" I need a few of them for the low windshieldframe.

doorlock B-pillar: 6x rounded head bolts 1/4 UNF 16mm long (incl head), (5/8length, GRade5 strength).





low windshield frame: 4x bolt-ring-nut 5/16 UNF 30mm long (1.1/4 length) incl hexagonhead. Also 8x 3/16 UNF 5mm long incl head witch is tapered head. Also 5x? 8-32 (or called "10") UNC 7mm long with tapered head. Also 2x 8-32 (or called "10") UNC 9mm long with tapered head. And 6x 8-32 (or called "10") UNC 8mm long with tapered head





doorhinge bolts: 32x 1/4 UNF 16mm long incl hexagon head. (5/8 length, Grade 5 strength).





if you got a tip where to get the smaller tapered "screws" (they don't need to be stainless steel), let me know.
ONLY NEED THE REARLIGHTBEZEL SCREWS, don't know the size yet. (Paul Wells could deliver them from http://www.datsun-roadster-parts.com

[peter]

did you try the German guy I gave you?

[ladydriver]

I found them, close to home

http://jukebox-revival.eu/algemene-onde ... re=default

[ladydriver]

On to the bottom, cleaning...

[peter]

looks great, a hell of a job.

[ladydriver]

X-brace, upper bracket radiator, plate behind grille
black powdercoated

[ladydriver]

bolts for the low windshieldframe arrived, gonna try them tomorrow. (they fit)
Bolts for the rearlight bezel seems to be different sizes, left 6-32 and right 4-48 (difference in older and younger types)



today painted the first layer epoxy coating on the bottom, and my husband is polishing the boot trim, looking good already.

[ladydriver]

stripped off the vinyl, sanding and now polishing

[mrsteve]

Looking good LD! Keep the updates coming! You and hubby do awesome work! I like it!

steve

[ladydriver]

boot trim, low windshield frame, and clutchpedal epoxy primered.



bottom 2nd primer layer

[ladydriver]

finally made the rolling frame, changed the wheels and made the frame at one side disassembled with bolts.

[ladydriver]

did some welding on the frame for the fueltank, did made some reinforcement in the inside of the trunk. and closed some "extra" holes. And found an extra place to remove for better metal...hope the last one.
Also cleaned the rest of the bottom area for the epoxy primer and when that is done than the rear has to come off from the "cradle" to clean and primer the last rear section of the bottom.

[ladydriver]

got an early birthday present from my husband! Better than a kitchen machine!

[notoptoy]

Nice, tools are always a great gift!

[ladydriver]

already used my toolsets, haha, not much women out there who like these kinds of presents!

the entire body is now in 2nd layer epoxy primer. The only space to clean and epoxy paint is where the rotisserie is placed at the back.



For the moment we put the body back on the frame to see if our welding work still matches with the 8 points to bold the body on the frame. Also we want to know where we have to make and remove holes in the engine bay for a smooth look.
And I got a tip (from Pebbles) about the starter, which is not easy to access with the body triangle plate in place. We want to make a removeable plate. Also checked if we can reach it from above with the brackets for the inlet manifold and heater hoses in place (stil have to find some curvy hoses for the heater).



With the engine in place we also looked for neat wiring (new because the old wires are very bad) wave in new needed wires for watertemp. Sensor, electric fan, alternator, etc. Thinking about where to place brake- and fuellines.

Any way it all comes together, step-by-step