replacing through the floor bolts in seat slides

[markjhatch]

I remember seeing a comment in one of the forum that replacing the bolts that attach the seat slides to the floor was a real PIA... Bu given how one is stripped and the other is bent, I am not sure I have much choice....

Does anybody have anything to share about this process? They look like they are just pressed in and I do have a small arbor press.

What did you use for replacement bolts?

Thanks

Mark

[tjp]

thinking out loud here....

If you are replacing the bolt can't you just use any size you want?

[markjhatch]

Probably. The only constraint there would be interference with the top slide. The existing bolts look a little like carriage bolts (top of head is rounded, no way to hold). But I cannot see any square shoulder on the bottom, so not sure how you prevent them from turning while you tighten the nuts under the car.

Mark

[tjp]

I've read great reviews about McMaster-Carr. http://www.mcmaster.com/#" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I'd guess they have something that will work. If not, I have disassembled a couple set of seats and might have usable of what you need.

I also bet Ross has what you need, and more readily available than I do. I will dig if you need me to though. No worries.

[dbrick]

I pressed/pounded out the old one and used a normal hex bolt, grade 8, and ground the head down a bit. Once it was in, a few tack welds did the trick. Carrige bolts, generally, are very soft steel, so not safe for seat mountings.
You could also use a thin nut on the bottom to jam it if no welder avail.

[jrusso07]

My experience is that the bolts are swaged in and relatively easy to knock out. As dbrick said, use a high grade bolt and grind the head to fit/clear

BTW, I have a nice used set of rails (one set for one seat). PM me if interested. Never mind, just looked at them and they are missing all 4 floor mounting bolts.

[markjhatch]

Thanks, a few wacks and they popped out. Looks like there is no need to grind the head as the track seems to clear. Also, looks like the bolt will jam up against the side of the track so not sure why you welded?

The problem is that the bottom where there is a washer and a bracket for the spring. They need to be tacked down.

The solution is http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/EARNES ... Pid=search" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

That looks like a direct replacement. The only problem is that grainger only sells a box of 100, for $70!

Any of the roadster suppliers out there that have already bought the box and want to sell me 8 of these?

Mark

[dbrick]

These go to 11, well actually grade 9. If needed, grind the head to fit in the "U".
I welded because I couldn't find decent bolts with the square shoulder.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#90201a221/=p0t ... n%20false;
$12.00 for 25

[markjhatch]

Going the welded in bolt approach like recommended by Dave.

BTW: When you are popping those bolts out, there is a tendency to flatten out the inner "U" track. That prevents if from sliding easily within the outer track. I found that a couple light wacks on either side of the rack seemed to make things ok.

Mark

[markjhatch]

Here is my final solution. I riveted the spring bracket and lower washers to the track using stainless steel 1/8" rivets with 1/4" grip. No welding pretty simple solution. The two photos show my work.

The other advantage of this solution was that I increased the length of the bolts form 1.25 to 1.5". I needed the extra length because I put in a new carpet with a pad along with a 1/8" layer of sound deadening material. If I had someone weld 1.25 bolts in you could have imagined my disappointment at finding that I couldn't grab a thread.

Mark

[jbmilman]

Great solution.

I have a feeling I will be doing pretty much the same thing soon

Thanks for the info!

[dbrick]

Nicely done.