Upper control arm replacement bolts

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Linda
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Upper control arm replacement bolts

Post by Linda »

Decided to check the bolts and they were a little loose--- :? The replacement grade 8 I have are longer but the shoulder is longer too. Is that a problem or how would I check?
Thx
Linda
Sadly-Linda has passed away 2022. She was the 311's den mother and drove the first Rare-Parts ball joint project. RIP.
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Linda
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Re: Upper control arm replacement bolts

Post by Linda »

Problem solved. Tapped some more threads leaving a 3/8" shoulder to match the stock bolt.
Bolts are 7/16-20x 2" as suggested elsewhere which allows for bolt to extend thru a bit instead of being flush, so that a 7/16-20 nylock can be used on the backside.

Linda
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Last edited by Linda on Thu Jul 26, 2018 5:05 pm, edited 6 times in total.
Sadly-Linda has passed away 2022. She was the 311's den mother and drove the first Rare-Parts ball joint project. RIP.
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dbrick
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Re: Upper control arm replacement bolts

Post by dbrick »

In a perfect world, the unthreaded shoulder on any bolt should be just a little shorter than the total thickness of whatever it is going through, so there is just enough thread for the nut to tighten without running out of thread. The shoulder is stronger than the threaded part.

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Skyman
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Re: Upper control arm replacement bolts

Post by Skyman »

According to my roadster book, this is a common problem, and these bolts should be checked regularly. I would check every 3000 miles when you lube the front end. BTW, on these front ends, it is very crucial they get lubed at least every 3000 miles. Maybe even more often.
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akear
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Re: Upper control arm replacement bolts

Post by akear »

Do we have a sticky of essential mods, and if not, shouldn't we have one? This seems to be one for the list, along with brake brace, fuseable link on amp gauge, etc.
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RCMike
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Re: Upper control arm replacement bolts

Post by RCMike »

Glad you checked Linda, And glad you got a fix!

I was quite surprised when I found mine loose..
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Linda
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Re: Upper control arm replacement bolts

Post by Linda »

The 2 bolts on the right were flush with the metal, meaning they were a little bit loose. The 2 bolts on the left were tight, and extended slightly, but when I looked at the bolts both were stripped in the middle of the bolt, not sure how that happens-maybe they were loose at one point? The new bolts have more thread to use a nylock with or just have more room in case they back out.
I found if you carefully take the bolt out the shims do not fall out. But even if they do it is easy to put them back. You have to check to be sure of course. Doing one bolt at a time with the car jacked up, is the process, using a socket and extension from the engine side. The angle is a bit awkward.
Everyone should at least tighten them. Not that I ever have till now. :)

Linda
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Sadly-Linda has passed away 2022. She was the 311's den mother and drove the first Rare-Parts ball joint project. RIP.
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