Well it is now black and the car is silver.
I'm going to repaint the entire car instead of having it matched, should i pull the engine and tranny out to paint match the engine bay? Do you think this will have an impact on value of the car (incase i have to sell it)?
Its close to being nice, it runs great! some tears in the top that was new, still have to mount the fiberglass hood to make it a bolt on instead of a pin-on. (i don't want to drill into the cowl for the pins).
the tranny grinds in second alittle after warming up, the fluid is a tad low so ill change that.
still need some misc. parts.
head light trim, interior upper door panels, etc.
Any ideas on color? i still haven't decided yet. i picked up a small amount of a charcoal color, ill spray an old fender and post a pic when ever i get to spraying.
also should i put a front bumper on? anyone have a lip?
thanks
steve
i just need some insp. to get me moving
Engine bay paint?
Moderators: notoptoy, S Allen, Solex68
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- Roadsteraholic
- Posts: 1873
- Joined: Wed Nov 19, 2003 11:55 pm
- Location: Texas
- Model: 2000
- Year: Low Windshield-64-67.5
My 66 is silver, but had a black engine bay.
Are you repainting the car black, or silver?
Since I was swapping in a new motor, I opted to have the engine bay repainted. However, to have it done properly will cost you a bit of money...
To properly sand, repair (most roadsters need some repair on the firewall from stress at the master cylinder), paint & clear coat will run about 7-8 hours of body and paint work. While, you are in there you will also want to clean and paint the exposed sections of the frame.
I know many folks rattlecan the engine bay, but I've been told that without proper prep/paint, the paint may start to flake off after time & heat exposure.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/zubkoff@s ... .dir=/6db6&
Are you repainting the car black, or silver?
Since I was swapping in a new motor, I opted to have the engine bay repainted. However, to have it done properly will cost you a bit of money...
To properly sand, repair (most roadsters need some repair on the firewall from stress at the master cylinder), paint & clear coat will run about 7-8 hours of body and paint work. While, you are in there you will also want to clean and paint the exposed sections of the frame.
I know many folks rattlecan the engine bay, but I've been told that without proper prep/paint, the paint may start to flake off after time & heat exposure.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/zubkoff@s ... .dir=/6db6&
Dan
Houston, TX
Houston, TX
im repainting the car my self, as the all of the paint it good except for the pass fender and hood im just going to repaint the entire outside and leave the jams alone for now, hell i just mayt reapint those also if i decide i can keep it (find a place to store it and drive it).
i just have to decide if i want a single stage or a base/clear.
steve
i just have to decide if i want a single stage or a base/clear.
steve
- JoeK
- Roadster Fanatic
- Posts: 440
- Joined: Sun May 30, 2004 2:03 am
- Location: Oakland, CA
BC/CC. Don't bother with single stage, you can't touch it up, and you can't properly fix any runs or grit in initial job. At least that's the reasoning I was told.
And if you have the time to pull the motor, you should definetly do it. To me, unmatched engine bays look cheap and wrong, and it stands out like a sore thumb. Once you get the motor out, it's not much more work to strip the rest of the engine bay.
And if you have the time to pull the motor, you should definetly do it. To me, unmatched engine bays look cheap and wrong, and it stands out like a sore thumb. Once you get the motor out, it's not much more work to strip the rest of the engine bay.
Joe
Former owner of:
'68 2L
BLK SRL
sold 12-11-2012
Former owner of:
'68 2L
BLK SRL
sold 12-11-2012