Header removal

scotty · Post by **scotty** » Sat Jun 25, 2005 8:01 pm

Is there any way to get the header out without moving the motor?

hport · Post by **hport** » Sun Jun 26, 2005 12:20 pm

The only way you are getting the header off is pulling the engine / trans. Most headers are slightly longer than the factory manifold, making it a pain to get by the left frame support to start with.

You have to remove the intake first, in order to do that you need to remove the master cylinder and carbs ( solex). It is faster and easier to pull it all.

Besides, if the header is cracked, you need a flex joint installed before hooking the exhaust back together anyway. Since the engine is out of the way, good time to clean things up and do the work you have been putting off.

This is my experience / 2 cents.

Enjoy,
JC

DELETED · Post by **DELETED** » Sun Jun 26, 2005 1:11 pm

DELETED

scotty · Post by **scotty** » Sun Jun 26, 2005 1:15 pm

All that stuff is off right now. Has anyone been able to unbolt the mounts and move the engine enough to slide the header out? It's definitly not going to slide out otherwise.

hport · Post by **hport** » Mon Jun 27, 2005 8:14 pm

You can jack the engine up and move it to the right, but to get enough room to do that you will need to remove the motor mounts, accel. bracket, loosen the transmission mount and remove the fan shroud and hoses. Basically 75% of what it takes to remove everything. Do you have a engine hoist?
If not, I see your point of wanting to keep the engine in the car.

scotty · Post by **scotty** » Tue Jun 28, 2005 8:52 pm

I don't have a hoist, but I do have everything off and do need to change the mounts anyway. I just wanted to know if it was possible to move it enough to remove the header without pulling it all out. Thanks

Post by **dbrick** » Tue Jun 28, 2005 10:24 pm

I had my header in and out a few times with the engine in place. If the old one is bad, cut it in half and take it out, metal is very thin. New one may fit back in without much trouble if it is smaller or shaped differently The one I got from Dean was very compact and nice powder coat finish.

If you pull the motor, I would change the freeze plugs if they look at all rusty. Mine were terrible and would have been easier to change with motor out or at least raised. With the freeze plugs out, you can really flush out the coolant system with the garden hose. Just plug up the intake and exhaust ports with rags first. You can get the plugs in brass if you look hard enough, NAPA used to have them.

spyder · Post by **spyder** » Wed Jun 29, 2005 1:18 am

Which motor? On my u20 I've been able to do it easily after the starter has been removed through the wheel well. Long ago I removed the four top studs on the intake manifold and replaced them with hex Allen bolts. This simplified the process. I installed a flex pipe and this header has not cracked. I suspect part of the cause is the heat wrap which keeps the carbs cooler but the headers hotter.