60 amp single wire questions

[70MTroadster]

I pulled the engine and tranny and put in a 5 speed. Afterwards I could not get the alternator to show a charge on the amp guage. A previous owner had done some rewiring of the harness plug into the alternator plug and I was not certain if I got it rewired back the same way. Anyways, I decided to just go ahead and do the Steve Allen 60 amp Single wire alternator upgrade as I had a trip coming up this weekend and did not want to be out in the boonies with no juice. All went well and my new voltmeter shows close to 14 volts all the time while going down the road, plus the alternator is now over on the cool side of the engine.

Problem is, just after the install, my lights, dash lights, clock and turn signals worked fine. Now they do not.... I've checked the fuse box in the glove box and all fuses are good. I put a 30 amp fuse inline from the starter up in to the harness and it is good too. I have an inline 30 amp fuse in the + lead from the alternator to the + terminal on the battery and it is good. I taped off the existing wires from the old alternator, including the big white wire that came off the original alternator that goes into the harness.

By the way, I was under the impression that the original amp guage would be "dead" and of no use, so that is what the new voltmeter is for. Well, when turning on the headlights, the original amp guage shows a sever discharge.

I just completed my 250 mile round trip with this new set up so I gotta believe the alternator is keeping the battery charged and providing enough juice to run the car but what in the heck is going on here? Also, I have headlights but only low beam........?

Help?

Scott

[S Allen]

Scott,

The discharge on the original amp meter is exactly what happens. I actually removed the stock amp meter and put my volt meter in place of it. I crimped on two big eyelets where the wires used to go to the amp meter and used a short bolt, washers, lock washer and a nut to complete the circuit. I then taped it all off with some good 3M electrical tape. Alan D has run his car that way even before he put the single wire conversion in his 70.

As to your lights, dash lights, clock and turn signals not working that is pretty weird as you are still feeding the wiring harness 12 volts from from the starter. Are you sure you did not loosen a connection when you were doing the install? Removing the voltage regulator should have nothing to do with your problems. Check your voltages at the fuse block and make sure you getting voltage to the lights whether the ignition key is on or off. Also check to make sure the accessories are getting voltage with the ignition key on. I am sure it is something really simple.

FYI, that 60 Amp alternator comes off of an 80's Chevy Camaro. I have been running mine going on three years now. No problems. Let us know what you find out.

Steve

[kt]

I'm confused about the 30amp inline fuse you have
running from the + lead of the alternator to the + terminal
on the battery.
Don't you need a 60amp(or less) fuse there instead?
After all, Its a 60amp alternator.
Your 30amp fuse will pop if the alternator puts out
more than 30amps. If all your lights are ON, you're
close to 30amps. If you run fog/driving lights, you'll
go over 30 for sure.

As Steve stated, the negative drain on the ammeter is
expected. If you don't like this, you can hook up the
+ lead of the alternator to the white wire(that was
on the original alternator) instead of the + term on the battery. Someone on this site runs it
like this w/out problems. (check an old thread on alternators)
BTW, this white wire is hot. Be sure its taped off good,
touching the chassis will short your system.

Do the voltage checks as Steve mentioned.
Also check that you have voltage at the fuse that
runs from the starter into the dash. Can't recall, but I think this
mite be hot even w/ the ignition off. Follow this
wire(if you can) checking for voltage until you find
the culprit. You'll have to switch the ignition to ON eventually
to continue tracking. Don't leave it ON for more than a 30 secs to a minute. You may burn your coil, esp if you're running an
Electronic Ignition.

As for highbeam, there is a metal tab that connects
and disconnects when operated on(pushing/pulling
the turn signal). Make sure the contact is still being
made. Worth a look.
(its like this on the 69/70 anyways, don't know about
other years.)

best of luck,

[S Allen]

I missed the 30 amp inline fuse part the first time around. I do not have any kind of protection from the alternator to the battery. Just a direct wire. That part does not concern me. The bigger worry for me would be the old wiring harness which is why I use a fusible link there. Did you locate the problem yet Scott?

Steve

[70MTroadster]

well,

spent some time tonight on the electrical. Electrical will drive a man to drink and lots too. See........

I had not touched her since my 250 mile round trip. Went out, sat down and turned on the lights and low and behold I have lights, high beam, low beam and dash lights....... I follow Steve's and Kt's instructions and I have power to the R & L Light fuses key on or key off. I start the car and I still have everything but no turn signals or clock. I finally trace this to a blown "common" (far lower right fuse) in the fuse block. This one was NOT blown before I wrote the question to this forum..... OK, so I replace this fuse and now I have turn signals and a clock but somewhere along in the chain of starting, checking, etc. I lose my dash lights and high beam on my headlights.....and this with ALL good fuses..... Also, I went ahead somewhere along in all of this and removed my in-line 30 amp fuse from the alternator to the battery. Uno, it seems that the discharge shown on the original amp guage got smaller, but still no dash lights or high beam on the headlights.

I pulled the voltage regulator plug along in here somewhere and also checked (again) my "cut" large white wire that came out of the harness and went to the original alternator. This was capped off with a wire nut so as not to ground out and burn me down. And yes, KT, it is hot all the time.

At the moment anyway I have a car that will start and run. A voltmeter that says I am charging 14 volts all the time without anything on. I have turn signals, a clock, flashers, S brake light, low beam lights. I don't have dash lights anymore or high beam.

Scott

[S Allen]

Sounds like you are making some headway. High beams-check the headlight relay connections. It could also be the switch on the turn signal stalk is acting up. Dash lights-- are you positive you did not turn the rheostat down dimming the dash lights completely? Just asking as I did this once. Electrical is not as bad as it seems to be especially on these cars. Blown fuses, poor grounds and loose connections pretty much make up the bulk of elelctrical problems. Hang in there as you are getting real close to solving your problems.

Steve