My Starter got me

Jorge022770 · Post by **Jorge022770** » Sat Jun 11, 2005 8:34 am

Ok, I know that in the starter section someone wrote about access problems and having to take out carbs and manifolds to replace the starter.....I was able to unscrew the starter without even having to remove the wheel, thinking I was smarter....

now I have a loose starter trapped in the engine compartment because there's no way of getting it out of there! Now I have to do what I should have had done to begin with.

Now, do I have to replace the manifold's gasket if I only (i hope!) remove carbs and intake manifold as a unit?

My next question is, where can I take the starters (the one coming out and the one I will put in there) to get tested? It would be a pain in the a** going throught the reinstallation only to find out the other starter doesn't work.

Last question: If the starter makes the "clank" noise when i turn ignition switch, and doesn't crank the engine......is it normal that when I do that the ammeter goes almost all the way towards the (-) side? It returns to the middle as soon as I turn the switch back though. Is that a sign of ground,wire, or starter's mechanism problems?

Thanks guys!

Jorge

67 1/2 1600 · Post by **67 1/2 1600** » Sat Jun 11, 2005 11:02 am

Jorge,

I had that problem too.. and worse! It almost melted my accelerator cable! Check the famous ground strab next to the starter, turn the wheel all the way to the right and stick your head in the wheel well and make sure its making good contact. If that doesnt solve the problem let me know.

Joaquin

Jorge022770 · Post by **Jorge022770** » Sat Jun 11, 2005 2:23 pm

So Joaquin, yours would also make the clicking noise when you turned the switch, and the ammeter would also move to negative? And after cleaning the ground contact it worked?

Jorge

datsunrides · Post by **datsunrides** » Sat Jun 11, 2005 5:19 pm

If the gasket does not tear when you pull the manifold off, you might be able to reinstall the manifold by putting a very light coat of silicone sealer around the ports. It probably would be a good idea to replace the gasket since you are in that far. Most automotive part stores should be able to test the starter for you for free. If the ammeter swings all the way to -, this is normal since the starter draws a lot of current while cranking. Should fall back to the center when you release the key. When you reinstall the starter, make sure you have an engine to frame ground like Joaquin said otherwise it will try to ground thru any means available. (like throttle cables)

DELETED · Post by **DELETED** » Sat Jun 11, 2005 5:40 pm

DELETED

Jorge022770 · Post by **Jorge022770** » Sun Jun 12, 2005 2:05 am

Mark:

Thank you for the hopes! I will certainly try more persistently to remove it without any further disassembling....I already took the carbs out, but these are easy to put back. I'll keep u posted.'

Jorge

Jorge022770 · Post by **Jorge022770** » Sun Jun 12, 2005 10:46 pm

Mark:

THANK YOU!!!!!!! Your message was my salvation.... Yesterday I ended up giving up on trying to get the starter out without taking half of the engine out, but when you told me that you have done it like i was trying to do it, I went back today on a mission........and two turns and a few twists later the starter just came out without even having to pull.

The other starter went in as easily as the old one came out.....in one try!

I hooked the wiring harness, ground strap, and battery cable to the starter, and have them ready to connect to the harness and the battery. I didn't finish it today because I need to make new gaskets for the carbs-to-spacer blocks (I did remove the carbs yesterday, although I left them there with all the hoses still attached), and I didn't have time to go buy the gasket material.....

but anyways, I wanted to let everyone know that you CAN remove the starter without taking anything out (other than the driver's front wheel, of course!), and that whenever you have to do it, thank Mark for the time saved!

Jorge