Won't Start

okiedatsun · Post by **okiedatsun** » Fri Jun 03, 2005 1:43 pm

I have been working on my 1600 for a while, but I can't get it to start. When you try and start it the starter turns over, I have spark to the coil, but no spark after the coil. Can someone tell me how the coil and surrounding parts are wired? I have tried replacing the coil with two different ones. I guess the field mice didn't care if it would start after I took their home

Thanks in advance!

Jorge022770 · Post by **Jorge022770** » Fri Jun 03, 2005 6:17 pm

I can take a picture of mine (I had the same problem and the nice people here guided me through it!) and email it to you......or email me and I'll reply. My email is jorge022770@hotmail.com

Take care!

Jorge

nomadtrash · Post by **nomadtrash** » Sat Jun 04, 2005 8:40 am

There are two positive wires going to the distributor. One positive wire connects directly to the positive terminal on the distributor. The other positive wire goes to the ballast resistor and then from the ballast resistor to the positive terminal on the coil. The one that goes directly to the coil is hot only while cranking. It give a full 12 volts to the coil while cranking to give a little extra kick to get the motor started. The one to the ballast resistor is only hot while the car is running. The ballast resistor cuts the voltage in half and protects the points and coil which can't handle a full 12 volts continuously. The negative wire connects to the distributor. Check that the transistor that it is attached to has good connections. This frequently causes misfires and intermittant loss of spark. Check that both of the hot wires are hooked up and functioning correctly. Check that the ballast resistor is working correctly. You can check the coil by running a jumper wire directly from the battery positive terminal to the coil positive terminal. Be aware that the ignition key will only work the starter motor and will not turn the motor off while hooked up this way. In order to turn the motor off you will have to pull the jumper wire off the battery.

When trouble shotting my first roadster I had a no start problem. I found that the wire that is supposed to be hot during cranking was not hot ever. By trial and error I found a circuit in the fuse box that remained hot during cranking. Most go dead while cranking. I ran a wire from there to the ballast resistor. After that the car started just fine even through the ballast resistor at lower voltage. Make sure the circuit you use turns off when the ignition is off or you will have to pull fuses to get the motor to stop.

Hope this helps,

Post by **dbrick** » Sat Jun 04, 2005 9:31 pm

Are you getting spark from the coil wire to cap or at coil center terminal?
If so ignore the rest of this and check cap rotor plugs timing firing order and wires.

Primary ign check
Quick check is to put a test light with the clip on the batt - and point on coil +. should light in "run" and light brighter or the same cranking. Move clip to coil - point still on coil +. Should flash while cranking indicating the points work. no flash, take off cap and rotor, check ground wire from breaker plate to dist body. test clip on batt +, point on points where wire attaches. should flash when cranked. If any of these don't check out follow the wires. Neg goes from dist body to breaker plate to dist -.
Positive is as Andy describes.
Good luck

If at any time the coil wire is not in the cap, or cap and rotor not in place while cranking, make sure coil wire is grounded or within 1/4 inch of ground to check spark. If you will be cranking the car alot, try to disconnect fuel inlet to fuel pump and plug to avoid flooding or plug rubber line at carb.

Jorge022770 · Post by **Jorge022770** » Sun Jun 05, 2005 12:13 am

Ian:

I sent you the pictures this morning when I took them. I also explained where every wire came from and where they go to. It is basically what NOMADTRASH said.....but with picture references. Let me know if they helped.Good luck!

Jorge

datsunrides · Post by **datsunrides** » Sat Jun 11, 2005 5:30 pm

IF you are getting spark from the coil wire (the part that goes in the cap) while you are cranking the engine, chances are your primary circuit is OK. Your problem then must be either of the following in the secondary system.
1- Bad or missing rotor (I have forgotten to reinstall this piece a couple of times and spend some time wondering why I can't get the car to start- Then remember that I removed it to gap the points)

2- Bad or cracked cap. A crack would look like a black line running across the cap (carbon tracking) or perhaps the coil "button" is gone (the part that transfers spark from the cap to the rotor)
3- Spark plug wires (very unlikely but you never know)

Hope this helps in your quest

Post by **dbrick** » Sat Jun 11, 2005 7:04 pm

I forgot to mention the rotor, done that too, and looked right past it when trying to figure out why the #&$*%& car won't start.

Don't tell anyone...Oh wait too late

JoeK · Post by **JoeK** » Sun Jun 12, 2005 12:17 am

Hah, I spent 3 hours diagnosing my car once, only to find the condenser wire had fallen off. Or pulled off when checking the oil, as I later learned can happen from time to time. Always remember to check the easiest things first.

Good Luck