what should I do about dings intop bow of convertible top?

markjhatch · Post by **markjhatch** » Sun May 13, 2012 10:45 pm

Getting my soft top frame ready for the shop to put on a new top. As I look at the top bow (this is the piece of metal that on the inside there are the clamps that fasten it down on to the windshield) I noticed some slight indentations in the center. See just above the hammer in the photo. Since the soft top wraps around this section before heading towards the rear of the car, I am worried that these dings will be reflected as indentations in my nice new soft top.

Has anybody else had this problem? Or maybe it is not a problem (I am putting on a canvas top.).

Given that there is no way to get to the back of these dings, If I need to smooth out the top bow to create a flat service for my soft top, I would probably have to fill the cracks with bondo?

Advice here?

Mark

Roman · Post by **Roman** » Sun May 13, 2012 11:44 pm

My 2 cents for free.

That needs some body work. I would imagine that the dents need to be pulled out with some rods welded on, then some filler. there are some nice creases that need to come down as well.

fj20spl311 · Post by **fj20spl311** » Mon May 14, 2012 12:31 am

They get that way from too much pressure from the top (bend in or near the middle).

The standard way of repairing them is to cut the spot welds, straighten, reinforce and weld back together.
Some of the vendors have repaired them in the past.

Post by **dbrick** » Mon May 14, 2012 12:38 am

That one's pretty bad, I wouldn't use it. Maybe a wanted post would get you one?
On the new bow, or this one if you fix it, be sure you have the spacer for the center clamp, and don't make the top super tight, it will shrink with age and become impossible to get on.

markjhatch · Post by **markjhatch** » Mon May 14, 2012 7:06 am

Darn....

Placed an ad in parts wanted... Hopefully someone will be able to help!

Thanks, almost glued the new finisher on. Glad I didn't!

Mark

markjhatch · Post by **markjhatch** » Mon May 14, 2012 2:15 pm

Thought a little more about this one.

The funny thing is that there is no obvious dings/twists in the bottom of the bow, the part that sits on the windshield. All the dings are on the top where the soft top loops around.

Apparently, the diagnosis here is that the top probably shrunk and the PO dented the bow when he torqued down the clamps. If this was true, why don't I see any dings/deformation on the bottom edge where it sits on the windshield?

I am trying to determine if I have a structural problem (i.e. twist) in the bow or whether I have a cosmetic problem (in one of my many moves, someone dropped something heavy on the top of the top.). If cosmetic, I would probably go with a bondo solution. If structural.... I better fine one in better condition...

Thanks for your further thoughts here.

Mark

Roman · Post by **Roman** » Mon May 14, 2012 2:36 pm

See how it lines up on the windshield frame

markjhatch · Post by **markjhatch** » Mon May 14, 2012 3:08 pm

Good point. Will do that tomorrow.

Post by **GeoffM** » Mon May 14, 2012 3:17 pm

Mark,
It's a known flaw with the bow design. It's caused by 40 years of repeated stress on the thin sheet metal form. I have heard that a common cause is when someone installs the middle latch without the wedge shaped spacer underneath it.

FergO2k · Post by **FergO2k** » Mon May 14, 2012 4:16 pm

That is not cosmetic. The adjustment of the clamps, and then the order that they go on is pretty important. It wasn't the best design, and certainly not durable enough. The top frame has so many pivots that when they start to age, they present the bow to the windshield frame a bit cocked. Most of us have learned (yep, and me the hard way) that if the tension on the clamps is too much, retract and present again. If you don't you run the risk of warping the outer skin, which permanently makes the bow flexible. Unfortunatel, that is what looks like happened here.
A "panel beater" can do wonders, but he is going to undo a good section of the pinch welds, straighten the old piece (welding stiffeners on the back) or replace it, then pinch it back together to give you the flushness.

markjhatch · Post by **markjhatch** » Mon May 14, 2012 6:15 pm

So much to learn...

What is the order of snapping the clamps?

Which way does the wedge go? Thin edge towards the top or thin edge towards the bottom (dash).

Thanks all!

Mark

Post by **dbrick** » Mon Oct 15, 2012 9:21 pm

markjhatch wrote:So much to learn...

What is the order of snapping the clamps?

Which way does the wedge go? Thin edge towards the top or thin edge towards the bottom (dash).

Thanks all!

Mark

Found this..May help
http://www.datsunroadster.com/PIC_PAGES ... aising.htm

dynaguy · Post by **dynaguy** » Sat Oct 20, 2012 10:03 am

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150902593198?ss ... 1423.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Looks like a decent one. Alot easier than repairing a damaged, weak one. FWIW Pat

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what should I do about dings intop bow of convertible top?

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