SR20DE S15 S-spec into a 67.5 "1600" NETHERLANDS

[ladydriver]

If you start reading this post, read it until the end, because on the way we change things and it would be disapointing if you use something we made and we changed that along the way...

It seems I lost multiple times the urls of my pictures, not sure why (facebook seems to change the codes). If you want to see all my pictures of the project you can look at them by these 2 links: https://www.facebook.com/eer300zx/media ... 898&type=3
and https://www.facebook.com/eer300zx/media ... 139&type=3


I read all (i think i did) known engine swap posts/pmwiki tech section on 311s and spriso/Michael his website, the only thing I miss is that almost everybody stops after the engine and transmission install on the frame. There should be guys/girls driving around with a completed roadster!!!



There are some questions spinning in my head about the new "hot rod" dashboard clocks, wiring them up, speedometer, odometer, brakelines, fuellines, clutchline (keep it as clean as possible under the hood), other fuelpump inside the tank, new wires with more fuses, i want to use my own radiator with fan>what about waterhoses, i want to use my own differential and axles> does that hold? where did you guys put your battery>what about cables and is it a handy place. What did you do wrong or could be done better, because it needed repair, better location or was just not handy to reach with your tool(s).

like electronic gauges instead of cable speedo




We bought a used 2001 (170.000km) SR20DE Nissan Silvia S15 S-spec engine with transmission, MAF and eccs/computer. It also has variable valve timing, but no coils on each spark plug.



I hooked up Yury from wiringspecialties to make an enginewiring harness kit. Because there was not any wire with the engine/tranny/maf/eccs. Because the guy/seller wanted to keep that in his Silvia S15 to put in even a faster engine...So making a wiringharness without a diagram is like spaghetti for a monkey. But I heard Yury is a good spaghetti man so i hope he manage it.

So we (my husband Henk and I) started also with the frame work, like eveybody else.





the left engine mount needed after fitment a little correction, you can see the rubberplates almost touch eachother. the correction is made. Also we cutted out a little bit to little at the right side so the oilpan wouldn't fit at the subframe side, We also corrected that.





we are almost done welding and cutting the frame.
we made the new engine mounts ourselves and borrowed a jiggy.
We bought new datsun 510 11220-A3500 rubber enginemountset from E-bay to complete the mounts.

We placed the original tranny mount from the S15 in the X-frame, with some modifications.







We are now busy with the "new" alternator from a Subaru Vivio '99-'00 (we could not find a Justy, the pulley of the S15 alternator fits on the Vivio), waterpump pulley 300zx '87-'89 and the waterpump spacer...etc.



We need to restore one footplate at the left side in the body under the pedals and a new frame member (located under the old place of the battery)





So that's it for now, i post also on my facebook account and on my own Dutch Fairlady Roadster website, which register all Dutch and also a bit European owners!
for facebook search "eer zx"
for website http://www.datsunfairlady.nl go to register and than hit Erica&Henk
Hope you guys and girls give me some tips, reminders and hope you like my (our) work.
I try to keep it posted here until she is ready.

[notoptoy]

Excellent posting!

[jamesw]

That is so cool! Please keep us posted.

James

[Gregs672000]

Wow, what an adventure, with limited local support even! We'll do all we can here, but I have no experience with swaps so all I can do is cheer you on!

[Alvin]

very cool!

[RCMike]

Ok, I'll jump in..

For the battery, we stuck it in the trunk. It fit right in and looks clean.. I lost a couple inches of trunk, but It's very convenient.






For the radiator, we used my original 1600 radiator. But there were major surgeries performed on it.. The hose switched sides, the 2liter filler was added, and the T overflow was cut off and replaced with an elbow. Also, it uses an electric fan..



If you want a particular photo, let me know and I will try to get it..

[ladydriver]

@RC Mike nice pictures!
Really nice battery solution, what about "+ cable"? Where you lead it thru?

I have lot of questions:
I saw someone measuring space between X-frame and transmission, 2x4 inch or so, is that correct distance?
How did you do it with the water temp. switch(es) for the electric fan? used the 240sx hose with switch inside? or something else creative?
Do you have to replace all waterhoses? which type did you used (brand and type, year car)? what about thermostat housing above alternator? You turn it up and than what?
So enough for now.

Hope you can give more tips and tricks, the are very welcome, very nice/kind you want to share them with me!!!!

[ladydriver]

waterneck thermostat faces now up and new "bolts" in waterpump flange





the OEM (right) engine mounts from E-bay came...they are mutch higher than the ORIGINAL from the Nissan dealer (left) nissan 510, so because we borrowed the original Nissan ones for fitment, now the engine is rising 1cm (!). Because that is not what we wanted we throw away the E-bay "OEM" 510 rubbers and ordered the rubbers from the Nissan dealer. So watch out for BAD "OEM" quality.



mounting bracket made to the engine and brackets from Subaru Vivio alternator used to mound it

[burn8]

Very nice. Thanks for sharing.

-Allan

[ladydriver]

I saw in an old (2003) topic something about the height of the transmission see http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=17489

if you lift up the transmission with, (and i think you guys speak in inches), 2 inch (=5cm) than the SRtransmission lift up a lot higher than the original 1600 transmission. Also the transmission of the SR is longer than the original 1600, so in my opinion, the angle of the driveshaft will be much steeper. But that is not what you want in a car. Straight as possible. So please explain how you solve this or do I see it wrong? Or does it not matter?

[spriso]

The technique that you show in that image is exactly what we do on all of our SR conversions and we have had no issues with the pinion angle on any of our conversions.

The only thing to note is that dimensionally a 2x4 piece of lumber is actually ~1.5" tall (38.1mm)

Michael

[ladydriver]

from inch to mm is for me x25,4 so 38,1 mm is the correct tall size.

Before/we think it should be like this:
see the notch for the sensor



measurement of the timber, left is inch right is mm



this is the height with the timber under the transmission, look a the space for the notch for the speedsensor, it is hanging above the X-frame



we think the 38,1mm is to high, let me know what we are missing. (maybe the sr2ode S15 tranny is different???) Also Travis his height of the tranny is more like ours (in the wiketechsection), see:



please Michael comment, what you think should be right hight.

[spriso]

All SR20DE 5-speed transmissions are the same length and dimensions, and we have been doing these conversion for over 10-years setting the rear of the transmission at the 38.1mm height with ZERO issues.

This would be correct using our parts:



The only thing to keep in mind is you are using the JIG that Richard bought from me, but your own motor mounts copied from my design.

With my motor mounts, the correct Nissan isolators, and using our JIG, the trans height set at 38.1 mm in the rear would be correct it both side to side tilt and fore and aft tilt-- but since you are building your own parts, your mileage may vary.

Michael

[ladydriver]

I understand if you do 10yrs the same way, and there are no problems it must be right, but I am just wondering why you lift the transmission that high up. (because we think about the driveshaft angle, but you must be thinking of something else, or is there no reason to put it just at that timber height).
just thinking why you put it on that exact location.

[ladydriver]

the alternator is ready to be adjust. we used the original S15 bracket at the top to adjust the alternator. We used the original bracket from the Vivio for the lower bracket to modificate. we used a steel plate to the engine to attach the bracket