This is exactly what I have been doing. Ziplocks and a sharpie. Works great, even for groups of bolts that belong to one particular thing. I have a large tub for storage and a small tub for degreasing things.garths311 wrote:I have a large box of ziplocks and a sharpie . I plan on labeling as I go and a few large storage bins as well .
starting tear down
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- Mainer311
- Roadsteraholic
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Re: starting tear down
Jordan
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.
1971 PL521, Dragon green. Stock L16 w/ 4 speed, lowered 3".
- garths311
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Re: starting tear down
Baby steps . It looks like the water neck is starting to give up the ghost . Part of the gasket is coming out on the drivers side! But the other bolt still has a death grip . I've switched from a dead blow to tapping with 3lb sledge
68 project
- Roman
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Re: starting tear down
I went to long bolts rather than studs. That way you can get the tower free easier. Oh, lot's of anti seize.
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- garths311
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Re: starting tear down
What size?RFR wrote:I went to long bolts rather than studs. That way you can get the tower free easier. Oh, lot's of anti seize.
68 project
- Roman
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Re: starting tear down
I don't remember, but once you get the studs out, just take one to your local osh or ace hardware and they are easy to match up.
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- eastmedia
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Re: starting tear down
My latest method to remove the water tower goes like this.
Find a valve spring compressor. Remove the very top of the thermostat housing, the piece that holds the cap.
Place a VERY strong piece of flat steel across the tower studs. Hook the valve spring compressor under the ridges of the tower with the center of the puller against the piece of steel bridging the bolts. Slowly crank on the puller. A couple of turns, then tap sides with hammer. A couple of more turns, tap with hammer. This will get the tower to lift up about 1/2-3/4 of an inch. You can then remove the puller and use various leverage under the tower. Should come up easy by then.
It took me about 30 minutes to get the tower off after I figured out how to do it.
I've attached a crude diagram, to give you an idea.
Find a valve spring compressor. Remove the very top of the thermostat housing, the piece that holds the cap.
Place a VERY strong piece of flat steel across the tower studs. Hook the valve spring compressor under the ridges of the tower with the center of the puller against the piece of steel bridging the bolts. Slowly crank on the puller. A couple of turns, then tap sides with hammer. A couple of more turns, tap with hammer. This will get the tower to lift up about 1/2-3/4 of an inch. You can then remove the puller and use various leverage under the tower. Should come up easy by then.
It took me about 30 minutes to get the tower off after I figured out how to do it.
I've attached a crude diagram, to give you an idea.
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Ron
66 1600 Cherry
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66 1600 Cherry
69 1600 Beast
69 2000 Rough
67.5 1600 Basket Case (in the family)
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- garths311
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- garths311
- Roadster Nut
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- Joined: Wed Jul 25, 2012 9:42 pm
- Location: sun diego
Re: starting tear down
so just finished getting the ignition switch off , dropped the steering column down for better access , and used my dremel to cut slots and viola flat head screwdriver and its off , then re assembly man getting the column back up is fun with that loose backing plate
, now the steering is free! I still need to drop the car off the jacks because it is sitting to close to the wall for me to access the oil plug , clutch slave etc..


now my next question is how do I get the ignition apart so I can codes for a new key?




now my next question is how do I get the ignition apart so I can codes for a new key?

68 project
- garths311
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Re: starting tear down
well i guess i figured out how to get the switch apart , but i cant seem to get the slug out
68 project
- garths311
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Re: starting tear down
Still no luck getting off the water tower . I tried a puller from auto zone but its a pos the c clips popped off so I can't apply any force. I'm gonna try another type
68 project
- bikermike
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Re: starting tear down
There should be a small pin on the periphery of the barrel close to the front. I believe that keeps the cylinder in place.garths311 wrote:well i guess i figured out how to get the switch apart , but i cant seem to get the slug out
-Mike
1967.5 SPL311
1972 240z / L28
2003 BMW 525i Touring
2014 Jeep KL
1967.5 SPL311
1972 240z / L28
2003 BMW 525i Touring
2014 Jeep KL
- notoptoy
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Re: starting tear down
I think you have to push the pin in, while rotating the cylinder to the start position.
"When all else fails, force prevails!" Ummm, we're gonna need a bigger hammer here.
67.5 SPL311 H20 w/5 speed
65 Impala Convertible
2017 C43 AMG
67.5 SPL311 H20 w/5 speed
65 Impala Convertible
2017 C43 AMG
- garths311
- Roadster Nut
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Re: starting tear down
Well it looks like I will be cutting this sob off because I used another puller and it snapped off the ear
68 project
Re: starting tear down
I dig that valve compression tool idea that east media posted..thanks for that. It took my well over 16 hours to get my water neck squared away after breaking the stud and ezout off I posted a long thing on that. Just take your time it'll come off. Heat works as well sometimes. Flame wrench
- garths311
- Roadster Nut
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Re: starting tear down
Well I just ordered a z waterneck and a inline filler so I won't have to replace my radiator . I think this is the week to pull my Carbs and give them a once over . BTW can I just dip these Carbs or are there seals that might be damaged by soaking?
68 project