Went for a long drive yesterday and the throttle started sticking and I would have to goose it to get it unstuck. Every stoplight was like that. I'm assuming its something getting hot and tightening up on the throttle linkage. Didn't have time to look at it when I got home but check the linkages this morning and of course everything seemed to move freely.
I'm not a mechanic but I have put a new head gasket in so I have just enough confidence to get myself into trouble.
So does anyone have some quick fix before I start tearing things apart?
Thanks,
Todd-
Throttle Sticking when engine warm
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impinhigh
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68 Toadster
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impinhigh
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68 Toadster
I'll try loosening the throttle cable. I have both return springs.
The strange thing is that when the throttle is sticking all I have to do is tap the gas pedal and the idle goes back to normal. So I'm thinking that its not the cable but rather something in one or both of the carbs that is sticking. Haven't had a chance to get it warm yet so I'll let you know what happens when I do.
As for San Carlos I'll be there along with Bill, we're caravaning down. Jibha (Joe of Berkeley) has his car completley apart so needless to say he won't be showing up.
Todd-
The strange thing is that when the throttle is sticking all I have to do is tap the gas pedal and the idle goes back to normal. So I'm thinking that its not the cable but rather something in one or both of the carbs that is sticking. Haven't had a chance to get it warm yet so I'll let you know what happens when I do.
As for San Carlos I'll be there along with Bill, we're caravaning down. Jibha (Joe of Berkeley) has his car completley apart so needless to say he won't be showing up.
Todd-
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JoeK
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Todd, I had this same problem with my car. If I remember correctly, it turned out the rough idle screw was the culprit. That is the screw that looks like it would be an idle adjustment screw, it's in the center of the linkage. That screw should be loose, the idle should be set individuallly for each carb with the screws at the ends. If this doesn't make sense, let me know and I can probably send pics.
Good luck,
Good luck,
Joe
Former owner of:
'68 2L
BLK SRL
sold 12-11-2012
Former owner of:
'68 2L
BLK SRL
sold 12-11-2012
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68 Toadster
sticky throttle
Still having this problem.
Joe, you mentioned that the individual carb/throttle screws need to be adjusted. Can you give me a little more info on the adjustment of those screws. Don't need the pics unless you already have them on the computer. How will I know that they are both at the right idle. And what is the center adjustment screw for if not for the idle? Plus I need to get a new throttle cable, the old one is a joke, previous owner just wrapped a bicycle cable around the shaft coming up from the pedal and used a granny knot to keep it on!
As for the carbs, sprayed some carb cleaner around the linkages while the car was running and it almost stalled the engine. Seems like they need to be rebuilt but I'm trying to hold off on that as long as possible. Seems a little daunting even though I've heard it's a one day job.
Thanks for the info.
Todd-
Joe, you mentioned that the individual carb/throttle screws need to be adjusted. Can you give me a little more info on the adjustment of those screws. Don't need the pics unless you already have them on the computer. How will I know that they are both at the right idle. And what is the center adjustment screw for if not for the idle? Plus I need to get a new throttle cable, the old one is a joke, previous owner just wrapped a bicycle cable around the shaft coming up from the pedal and used a granny knot to keep it on!
As for the carbs, sprayed some carb cleaner around the linkages while the car was running and it almost stalled the engine. Seems like they need to be rebuilt but I'm trying to hold off on that as long as possible. Seems a little daunting even though I've heard it's a one day job.
Thanks for the info.
Todd-
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nomadtrash
- Roadster Fanatic
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- Location: Krum, TX
It sounds like you have the dreaded worn out throttle shafts. They will need a bushing installed. There are several vendors that can sell you bushed carbs or fix yours.
The idle is set with a unisyn tool. It is fairly easy to use. You can probably get one on Ebay. There are lots of websites that describe how to tune and syncronize SU's. I use a motorcycle syncromanometer. It is a mercury manometer that hooks to nipples installed in the smog ports in the manifold. It is a little more expensive and takes more setup time. It measures both carbs at the same time.
The idle is set with a unisyn tool. It is fairly easy to use. You can probably get one on Ebay. There are lots of websites that describe how to tune and syncronize SU's. I use a motorcycle syncromanometer. It is a mercury manometer that hooks to nipples installed in the smog ports in the manifold. It is a little more expensive and takes more setup time. It measures both carbs at the same time.
Andy Cost
Roadster-less
Bolt on modification? I did use some bolts!
Roadster-less
Bolt on modification? I did use some bolts!
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JoeK
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Todd, are you heading to Solvang? Keith Williams will be there, he will probably be holding a workshop on how to tune your SU's. I learned almost everything I know from him. If you can't make Solvang, I can loan you my Z-Therapy video which shows some basics. Getting a Unisyn would be great start, I'd try calling some local Volvo shops or VW performance shops.
The center screw is for tuning only. You set the idle using the individual screws on the sides of each carb. That's what you use the unisyn for, to check that they are both drawing at the same rate. Check it at idle, and at about 3000 RPM's. Use that center screw to turn the idle up to 3000 RPM's. When you hold the Unisyn on the face of each carb, and it reads the same on each, at both idle and 3000 RPM's, your carbs are balanced. Setting your fuel mixture is a bit more complicated. I'd do a google search for better explanations tha ican give you here. Maybe other people on this list will chime in with their favorite technique.
The center screw is for tuning only. You set the idle using the individual screws on the sides of each carb. That's what you use the unisyn for, to check that they are both drawing at the same rate. Check it at idle, and at about 3000 RPM's. Use that center screw to turn the idle up to 3000 RPM's. When you hold the Unisyn on the face of each carb, and it reads the same on each, at both idle and 3000 RPM's, your carbs are balanced. Setting your fuel mixture is a bit more complicated. I'd do a google search for better explanations tha ican give you here. Maybe other people on this list will chime in with their favorite technique.
Joe
Former owner of:
'68 2L
BLK SRL
sold 12-11-2012
Former owner of:
'68 2L
BLK SRL
sold 12-11-2012
-
68 Toadster
Sticky Throttle
Thanks guys for the info. I'll look at getting one of those unisyn tools.
Can't make Solvang this year, too many projects going on, but I'll have to check it out one of these years.
Sounds like rebuilding the carbs is next on the list. I'll check around.
Joe, I might want to barrow that video in the near future. Could you send me an email with your phone and address?
Thanks,
Todd-
Can't make Solvang this year, too many projects going on, but I'll have to check it out one of these years.
Sounds like rebuilding the carbs is next on the list. I'll check around.
Joe, I might want to barrow that video in the near future. Could you send me an email with your phone and address?
Thanks,
Todd-