1968... 1600->SR20
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- RCMike
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1968... 1600->SR20
So I bought my 1968 1600 in March.
I love the car. So much fun, beautiful ride, and in great shape.
But I have been wanting more power, a 5th gear, easier starting and running, and reliability.
Anyone know where this leads?
Pictures later..
Mike
I love the car. So much fun, beautiful ride, and in great shape.
But I have been wanting more power, a 5th gear, easier starting and running, and reliability.
Anyone know where this leads?
Pictures later..
Mike
- spriso
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Re: 1968... 1600->SR20
I like where this is going...
Michael
Michael
Spriso Motorsports
http://www.spriso.com
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SR20 Powered Roadsters
Engine swap kits Available! See my website!
http://www.spriso.com
Instagram https://instagram.com/spriso/
SR20 Powered Roadsters
Engine swap kits Available! See my website!
- Garm
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Re: 1968... 1600->SR20
It leads to you being in line before me with Desirello... 

1969 Roadster 1600-ish #26244 "Spike"
---------------------------------
OS GIKEN LSD $1720
AASCO light flywheels $398.95
---------------------------------
OS GIKEN LSD $1720
AASCO light flywheels $398.95
- RCMike
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Re: 1968... 1600->SR20
Ok, so I know what car I'm talking about, but in case you don't, here is my car on its last cross country jaunt.. To Shasta..


Since buying the car, I had noticed it could pretty easily fade the brakes when pushed, so I had installed the Spriso Z car front brake upgrade.. Easy to do and it completely ended the fade issues..
But I was left with a car that ran well when warm, but required 3-5 minutes of warm up before it would idle, was always a touch rough, and I think I have to take some of the credit for that, I'm sure the carbs were maladjusted after the linkage jumped off the car on my way home from Oregon..
It would try to overheat if driven up a long hill, it seemed to always be looking for a half gear somewhere, either up or down..
I was somewhat scared to really spin the motor, I know I shouldn't have been, but I just didn't want to hurt the old motor..
The handling is awesome, the brakes incredible, it looks beautiful, it was just underpowered and needed help..
So after seeing some very interesting cars at the SoCal roadster BBQ, then Solvang, then taking the car on the Shasta trip, I made up my mind.. Only one question, to turbo or not to turbo..
So I wound up talking to Kevin Desirello, and he and I talked about both options, and he recommended the normally aspirated motor.. I like to drive, long trips, everywhere, a lot, and Kevin thought the reliability and absolutely no thought required operation of the NA motor was the right fit.. But I like power, I really do, so I was convinced I needed the turbo. But I decided I would take Kevin up on his offer to drive his car and ride in Bart's car, and I promised myself I would keep an open mind..
So as we speak, my car is getting a transplant of a normally aspirated SR20DE S-14. Kevin Desirello is handling the work, and I will be handling the standing around and pretending I know what's going on..
This thread will be updated as pictures come in, and I hope to be able to share progress regularly until we are done..


Since buying the car, I had noticed it could pretty easily fade the brakes when pushed, so I had installed the Spriso Z car front brake upgrade.. Easy to do and it completely ended the fade issues..
But I was left with a car that ran well when warm, but required 3-5 minutes of warm up before it would idle, was always a touch rough, and I think I have to take some of the credit for that, I'm sure the carbs were maladjusted after the linkage jumped off the car on my way home from Oregon..
It would try to overheat if driven up a long hill, it seemed to always be looking for a half gear somewhere, either up or down..
I was somewhat scared to really spin the motor, I know I shouldn't have been, but I just didn't want to hurt the old motor..
The handling is awesome, the brakes incredible, it looks beautiful, it was just underpowered and needed help..
So after seeing some very interesting cars at the SoCal roadster BBQ, then Solvang, then taking the car on the Shasta trip, I made up my mind.. Only one question, to turbo or not to turbo..
So I wound up talking to Kevin Desirello, and he and I talked about both options, and he recommended the normally aspirated motor.. I like to drive, long trips, everywhere, a lot, and Kevin thought the reliability and absolutely no thought required operation of the NA motor was the right fit.. But I like power, I really do, so I was convinced I needed the turbo. But I decided I would take Kevin up on his offer to drive his car and ride in Bart's car, and I promised myself I would keep an open mind..
So as we speak, my car is getting a transplant of a normally aspirated SR20DE S-14. Kevin Desirello is handling the work, and I will be handling the standing around and pretending I know what's going on..
This thread will be updated as pictures come in, and I hope to be able to share progress regularly until we are done..
- RCMike
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Re: 1968... 1600->SR20
Car dropped at Kevin's, ready to get started..

44 years of service.. I will be keeping this motor with this car, so if at some point in the future the next person to enjoy this car wants to take it back, they can..

Getting ready to come apart.. Kevin says it was the first time this body came off this chassis..


Front view..

Under the back..

Short term home for a body.. it is enjoying waiting next to Kevin's car..

Looks empty in there.. We will fix that..


44 years of service.. I will be keeping this motor with this car, so if at some point in the future the next person to enjoy this car wants to take it back, they can..

Getting ready to come apart.. Kevin says it was the first time this body came off this chassis..


Front view..

Under the back..

Short term home for a body.. it is enjoying waiting next to Kevin's car..

Looks empty in there.. We will fix that..

Last edited by RCMike on Thu Aug 02, 2012 7:12 pm, edited 2 times in total.
- RCMike
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Re: 1968... 1600->SR20
Ready for some work.. More soon..


- notoptoy
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Re: 1968... 1600->SR20
Not wasting anytime, great to see!
"When all else fails, force prevails!" Ummm, we're gonna need a bigger hammer here.
67.5 SPL311 H20 w/5 speed
65 Impala Convertible
2017 C43 AMG
67.5 SPL311 H20 w/5 speed
65 Impala Convertible
2017 C43 AMG
- Garm
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Re: 1968... 1600->SR20
that's AWESOME. I like that you're documenting the swap.
1969 Roadster 1600-ish #26244 "Spike"
---------------------------------
OS GIKEN LSD $1720
AASCO light flywheels $398.95
---------------------------------
OS GIKEN LSD $1720
AASCO light flywheels $398.95
- DatsunDave
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Re: 1968... 1600->SR20
subscribed
1969 2000 - for sale soon
1966 1600
1970 521
1974 (early) 260z
2003 Frontier Desert Runner
1965 VW Kombi
1966 1600
1970 521
1974 (early) 260z
2003 Frontier Desert Runner
1965 VW Kombi
- windy311
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Re: 1968... 1600->SR20
WOW!
great job Kevin!
mike you will love it when it's done
great job Kevin!
mike you will love it when it's done

Alvin Gogineni
San Jose, CA
1967.5 SPL/SR20
1997 Acura Integra GS-R
2022 Chevy Bolt EUV
zcarblog.com
Instagram
YouTube
My SR20 Build Thread
San Jose, CA
1967.5 SPL/SR20
1997 Acura Integra GS-R
2022 Chevy Bolt EUV
zcarblog.com
YouTube
My SR20 Build Thread
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Re: 1968... 1600->SR20
Wow that was fast!
Kevin: I like your technique for lifting the body. What "hard points" did you use at front and rear?
I have the same hoist as you and I would like to do something similar when I put #275 back together.
Cheers
James
Kevin: I like your technique for lifting the body. What "hard points" did you use at front and rear?
I have the same hoist as you and I would like to do something similar when I put #275 back together.
Cheers
James
SRL311-00275
'96 Porsche 993 C4
2001 Excursion 7.3l
'96 Porsche 993 C4
2001 Excursion 7.3l
- Kevin Desirello
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Re: 1968... 1600->SR20
Hi James
The "hard points" are the bolt holes for the front and rear body bolts. I use two heavy duty straps for either end and the a chain for the hoist on the other end.
You will want to build door supports or leave the doors in place before you lift the body.
If your body is real rusty i would recomend making door support bars.
I use the big beam (header) above the garge door and screw in some large eye bolts.
measure the distance between the bolt holes on the body and set the eye bolts to the same width.
I use eye bolt that are very long and pre drill the holes.
Good luck on the project.
thanks for all the interst guys in my projects
Kevin D.
The "hard points" are the bolt holes for the front and rear body bolts. I use two heavy duty straps for either end and the a chain for the hoist on the other end.
You will want to build door supports or leave the doors in place before you lift the body.
If your body is real rusty i would recomend making door support bars.
I use the big beam (header) above the garge door and screw in some large eye bolts.
measure the distance between the bolt holes on the body and set the eye bolts to the same width.
I use eye bolt that are very long and pre drill the holes.
Good luck on the project.
thanks for all the interst guys in my projects
Kevin D.
http://www.krdroadsters.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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68 2L 01727 SR20DE
68 2L 01731 stock
67.5 2L 491 stock solex
64 1500 02104C SR20DE
63 Wagon SR20DE S14 auto
https://www.facebook.com/KrdKevinsRestorableDatsuns" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;"
68 2L 01727 SR20DE
68 2L 01731 stock
67.5 2L 491 stock solex
64 1500 02104C SR20DE
63 Wagon SR20DE S14 auto
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Re: 1968... 1600->SR20
Thanks Kevin! Do you use a chain-fall / chain hoist to lift the front or did you just lift it w/ the ratchet straps?
Very ingenious!
James
Very ingenious!
James
SRL311-00275
'96 Porsche 993 C4
2001 Excursion 7.3l
'96 Porsche 993 C4
2001 Excursion 7.3l
- Ed Mason
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Re: 1968... 1600->SR20
Excellent! I love seeing these swaps. You can have your cake and eat it too!
Ed Mason
1967 SRL311-00515
1967.5 1600 sr20det s14 swap
1967 SRL311-00515
1967.5 1600 sr20det s14 swap