Questions About Hood Hinges

[DatsunBucky]

As I dig into my project car, I'm starting to come across things that I just don't know the answer to. For example, are the hood hinges the same on both sides? After I pulled the hinges off, I stacked them on top of each other and they have different curvatures down by where they pivot. If anyone is interested, the bolts that hold the hinges to the hood are 8mm x 1.25, and 20mm long is just a bit short, 25mm would probably be a better length after putting a lock and a flat washer on them. I haven't yet figured out the exact dimensions for the shoulder bolt they pivot on.

Does anyone have a hinge they know to have the original bend that they could send me a tracing of? If you do send me one, please put a one-inch-long line as a scale so I can size it as needed. I think I know which one is original and which one was bent in the PO's accident but I can't seem to bend it back, even after heating the bend with a propane torch. I think I just can't get it hot enough to help any.

Also, anyone know any reason why I shouldn't make replacement hinges out of aluminum? No side loads to speak of, and even a few ounces of weight reduction is in keeping with the mental aspect of building an autocross car. I've already taken over 80 lbs out, and there is a lot more still to leave.

Having been away from Roadsters for almost 20 years, sometimes I just go out and look at the car, like Mr. Bean and paintings. Overall, I'm looking at about two years to get this where I want it to be. Then I can spring it on an unsuspecting autocross crowd here in Utah. heh, heh, heh. They really have no idea what "old school" is capable of. heh, heh, heh.

Thanks in advance for the help.

[oilleak]

Only reason I can think of not to do it is rules in your autocross class. There are other things you can do that will give better results for your effort but why not.

[S Allen]

If no one else comes up with a trace let me know and I will dig out my spare hood hinges and trace one for you.

Steve

[DatsunBucky]

'Preciate it, Steve. I haven't had any replies yet.

At the moment, my biggest mental struggle is about the difference in front fenders. Do I want them to not match? No. Do I want to buy Japco flares and have them put on? A possiblity. If I do that, then it's logical to cut out the fender under the flare. And if I cut fenders, do I really want to cut up a 67.5 fender? No.

In the meantime I'm sanding off all the layers of paint and replacing them with a single (for now) coat of primer. The car looks really good with a rollbar but no windshield. Yeah, Baby! Wind in the face! (Or on the helmet, as the case may be.)

As far as the legality of the aluminum hinges, 15.2.Q in the SCCA National Solo 2003 Rules states: "Component parts of the bodywork, such as hood, fenders, and deck lid may be lightened or replaced by ones of alternate materials, providing the shape is similar to the original and does not confuse the identity of the vehicle." The rest of the section goes on to discuss belly pans. The way I interpret that is that the hinge is part of the hood and can therefore be lightened or replaced just like the "skin".

oilleak, I realize there are a lot of other things I can do, but with my for-now-limited resources, I have to do what I can afford to do. I've made a list of every section and sub-section of the Prepared rules,and marked those that apply to changes I'm already planning on making. That way I can go back through and make sure I'm not missing anything. I'm also keeping track of each item as I do it to the car, and noting the section that allows that change, the estimated and actual cost, the vendor and part number, and the date I spent the money.

As far as the "Then I can spring it on an unsuspecting autocross crowd" remark, many of the kids autocrossing nowadays have probably never even SEEN a Datsun roadster, let alone know how well they can go when properly prepared. And I'll be a "Novice"! Ssshhhh...they don't need to know I was class champion in L.A. twice in my original 1600. Besides, that was well over 20 years ago, so I really think I could qualify as a "novice".

I think a lot of young people feel that if a car isn't FWD and have fuel injection, then it isn't worth anything as a racecar. Riiiiiiiight. I'll be out to prove them wrong.

[S Allen]

I never got around to digging them up yet. I did not forget and will try to get a trace to you in the next couple of days.

Steve

[DatsunBucky]

Steve-

It's not really that big a deal. If I look closely at the hinges I took off, one look relatively undisturbed, and the other has some scale or other rough texture at the last bend before the pivot. I think the first one is the original shape. I can use that one to recreate a second, or the ones in aluminum. I was more worried about aluminum not being strong enough for the task, but I think it'll be OK.

[S Allen]

Okay, sounds good to me. There really is not much to them any way.

Steve

[TR]

Hey Bucky,

I have some hinges you can have, they are original ones from a 66, but I would bet they are the same...Not lighter than if you fab Aluminum ones, but you are only talking ounces. General removal of other misc. metal will pay much bigger dividends!

The threads on the hood are SAE, not metric. Unless someone swapped yours out, I think you will find that they are 5/16-24. Only the engine bolts on later models are metric on roadsters (as far as I know)...

Good luck with your racing efforts, it is really nice to see them out there (especially if they are out front!)

TR

[SLOroadster]

A friend of mine had the ultimate nightmare. One side was SAE, the other was metric. Someone decided that they would put the wrong bolts in one side so they would match. I broke 2 Snap On easy-outs trying to remove the remains. The P.O. of the car decided to put 20lbs of bondo on the hood. It took days to remove it with a grinder. When I was done with the hood you couldn't find any bondo and had a wet-sanded and polished black paint job. It was beautiful, and looked out of place on the car because it was by far the best looking part of the car.

Will

[DatsunBucky]

Thanks, TR.

I appreciate your offer, but I think I'll go ahead and make the aluminum ones. I already bought the metal, and it is something I can do while having VERY little money to spend on the car. If they turn out like I picture, I'll scan a photo in and see if Steve can post it.

I bought the aluminum stock from Metal Supermarkets and they sell by the pound and will do straight cuts for free (at least the one here in Salt Lake operates that way). First they cut, then weigh what you want and charge you for only what you take home. The piece I bought was about 18"x4" and was 3/16" thick. By luck the piece was only about .020 thicker than the steel Nissan piece, so it should fit just fine. I paid $4.50 and they made two cuts for me. They're going to get all my metal business. They are supposed to be a nationwide chain, so if you need what they sell, check 'em out. (metalsupermarkets.com)

My first order of business is to get the body prepped and painted, then the interior, the suspension, and finally the drivetrain. I wish we had a real race track closer than Denver or 'Vegas, 400 miles is too far to go to actually race. Here I'm stuck with the SCCA Solo II program, but I've had some online run-ins with some of the people and am not too keen to associate with them right now. Since my timetable is two years to completion, I'll probably be over it by the time I'm ready to compete. We do have a vintage group that runs at Wendover several times a year, so I might look into that venue.