To the '70 SPL owners out there, here is a question for you !!
THe '69 SPL that I owned 30 years ago never had all of the EPA piping that the '70 SPL that I now own has installed on it..
The car has been squirting gas out from somwhere as I was driving around the neighborhood the other day. I couldn't not tell were the fuel was coming from until I put the car on jack stands and ran the motor for a few second. Sure enough, fule was squirting out of the "Weep Hole" on the firewall side of the fuel pump.
Now what causes that problem and how do I correct it?? Before I have a "FIRE SALE" on this thing
TIA for ANY Information !!! I'd like to halt this thing from stinking up my garage with gas vapors..
I had a spare old pump to swap, but got the same squirting out odf the weep hole when the engine was running. I replaced the fuel filter a few weeks ago and thought that for some reason the fuel flow direction was causing a backup of pressure which would cause the pump to weep.
Confused
Seems very strange that two pumps would suffer the same exact problem. Is there some vendor that sells a rebuilding ket for the pumps or is it time for an electric pump ???
The mechanical pumps are totally capable and are just showing their age. I cannot remember where I got a new diaphram for my last one, probably Rallye or Fairlady. It is a real easy repair and can be done in minutes.
Anyone ever tried the diaphram from an L-series pump in the roadster? These must be available at the local autoparts for cheap...
You can get a rebuild kit from Rallye Part # 170-06 for $ 35.00, that is if your pump is one of the ones that can be rebuilt. The one I had was not so I got a new fuel pump for my 2000 this past September from a dealer for $ 58. I had to change out one of the fuel fittings, it came with one threaded fitting and one for a regular gas hose. Switched out the threaded fitting with with the old one. Other than that bolt and go. Nissan Part # is 17010-14613 for the 2000, should be the same for the 1600, but I am not positive. It did not come with any gaskets though. Every now and then there are rebuild kits listed on E-Bay too.
I just find it ODD, to say the least, that with the two pumps that I put on the car that both of them exhibited the same problem.
Since I have two pumps to tinker with, I'll have one to break apart over the rainy weekend as the noxious fumes of gas choke the life out of me before my wife does.. She's getting a little "upset" with the stink in the house from the gas
Note: to MGslayer!! When are the 311 owners in MD. going to get together and swap lies ?? I know that Stickman live in the area, but haven't heard if this group meets up or not
I think some of them they met up last fall at a z club car show at either Reagan National or Dulles Airport??? Where in MD do you live? I'm in Carroll County near the PA line.
Cameron Herrmann wrote:I just find it ODD, to say the least, that with the two pumps that I put on the car that both of them exhibited the same problem.
It's not that odd at all. 35 year old diaphragms that work back and forth in volatile hydrocarbon soup to not crack would be odd.
The "Cracks" that cause small seeps are very hard to see, so don't be fooled by what may look like a serviceable diaphragm.
The Info page on Rallye's site is a good read. I know how to fit the replacement diaphragm into the "Hard to service" model. But I'd be hard presssed to put it into type.
If you forgot to install the spacer, the diaphram will be hyperextended and that can cause even a good used one to leak. Some folks think that the thicker mounting base on the post 67 fuel pumps (and virtually all replacement pumps) will let you go without the spacer, but it just ain't so! If you had the thin flange pump and replace it with a thick flange pump, you still need the spacer - and may need to change out the studs too.
Off topic, but a Northeast meet would be nice, Beach in NJ, Delaware or Maryland. My driveway ornament should be moving some day, or I'll drive down without it.
Dave Brisco
Take my advice, I'm not using it"
66 2000 The Bobster
64 1500 in pieces for sale
1980 Fiat X1/9
2009 Volvo C-70
08 Expedition EL, STUPID huge but comfy
1962 Thompson Sea Lancer, possible money pit
When replacing the diaphragm is any sealant or anything needed, or will it it seat itsself just fine dry?
Also, when putting the pump back in the engine, is there a piston of some sort in the engine that needs to be lifted, or will the arm just slide in with no problems. In other words, if I can properly bolt the pump in place, does that mean that it is installed properly??
Matthew in Phoenix
1968 1600 - Not running yet.
1967 1600 - Runs - currently doing body work.
1966 1600 - Parts... or racecar???
I think the diaphrams go in dry, anything you add will eventually end up in your carbs after the gas disolves it!
The pump just slides in, you may want to turn the motor over without the coil wire and make sure it turns freely before firing the engine. Just make sure you use the spacer...
Thanks for the info. One more quick question... I'm still learning... When you say turn it over without the coil wire, do you mean I should just unplug the coil and then crank the engine? This will keep it from actually starting and I can see if there is any impedence from the fuel pump arm? Or are you meaning that I should hand turn the engine to check for impedence?
Sorry if this is a dumb question. I am really new at this and know nothing about electrical/starter systems...
Thanks...
1968 1600 - Not running yet.
1967 1600 - Runs - currently doing body work.
1966 1600 - Parts... or racecar???
I'm sure I'll figure out electrical systems eventually. Unfortunately, my handle "oscilloscope" won't help me much. It has nothing to do with a knowledge of scientific anything and a lot to do with my love of mid-century sci-fi movies...
1968 1600 - Not running yet.
1967 1600 - Runs - currently doing body work.
1966 1600 - Parts... or racecar???
