Alive-Now Electrical,68 spl311

[impinhigh]

Hi All,
Got my 68 project car up and running yesterday!! (Only a year overdue) it sprung to life and moved on it's own for the first time since it was towed and parked in the garage in January 04. To keep my motivation going I directly gave her a bath and a nice coat of cleaner wax. Not a bad looking lil Roadster after all.. anyway before she can be my daily car I've need to chase down the electrical gremlins.

Here's what works:
starter
ignition
brake lights
S-Brake indicator switch light

Not working:
headlights
tail lights
turn indicator
fan
wipers
dash lights

So, do I have a single root malfunction or individual problems that need to be chased down? Fuse panel appears to be in good shape and no blown fuses.
Please pass along any information or methods of trouble shooting.
Thanks as always!
Matt
68 spl311(2)

[70MTroadster]

your 68 should have the same fuse panel as my 70. I had a weird problem where I had power with a test light on the front and back of the fuse panel on all but one fuse and that one caused issues with the lights and turn signals. I solved the problem by using a craytex polishing deal on my dremel and polishing up the front and back of the copper connectors on my panel. Without going out and looking I think it was the 3rd one down on the right side. You could see where it had gotten hot and melted the plastic around the fuse prongs sometime before I bought the car.

My 2 cents worth. Good luck.

Scott

[Datrock]

I believe if it's a 68 it should have a single row fuse box, does your 70 have the double or single row? Have you tried checking the right bank of connectors with a 12v light probe to see if your voltage is making thru the fuse box. It sounds like you are not getting juice to a couple fuses or they may look good but are not making contact. Check to see if the headlight fuse holder is all burnt at the connection. For the heater fan check the plugs behind the radio console,but first check at the fuse box. Sound like your almost there with your car, glad to hear that another Roadster is back on the road. Bill

[dbrick]

I always start with ground when more than one thing malfunctions. (I trace 12 volt DC circuits for a living, Fire and burg alarms) If that's good, then you have 2 options. You need a wiring diagram,
http://www.311s.org/tech/electrical/wiring/68splsrl.pdf


1. You can turn on the malfunctioning circuit and work backwards with a test light toward the battery with the lead clipped to battery ground. When the light comes on, the bad connection or break is between the point where the light came on and where you started. If you have a test light with a long metal point, tape up the whole metal part except the last 1/4 inch, prevents an accidental short in close quarters

2. You can also use a multimeter with the circuit on and go from the battery +toward the item. The - meter lead goes on the battery + and you work the + meter lead down the circuit toward the item. 0 volts means the circuit is good to that point. You can then put the - lead on the point you just tested and move down the circuit with the + lead. When the meter goes up to 12 volts you just passed the point where the voltage stopped (break) and are reading the ground coming back up the wire. If it reads less than 12 volts but more than about 1 volt, there is a bad connection, but still connected. Fuses should read 12 volts on both sides. Dash light circuits sometimes are wired funny, the fuse won't read any power until the switch is turned on, don't know if Datsun is this way.


Sears has an excellent multimeter on sale this week, I use it for my backup,http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product. ... 3482139000, $19.99 if you have a craftsman club card.[/url]

[ppeters914]

Nice how-to troubleshoot info, Dave, and thanks for the heads up on the Craftsman multimeter. I keep thinking I should replace/augment my old trusty Simpson 260.

If that's your backup, what's your primary multimeter?

[dbrick]

I use a Greenlee, about $70.00 at Lowes. It's the one in the heavy rubber "boot" Most of the other guys use Flukes. I found (not by choice) that the Greenlee can take a 30 foot drop onto concrete, so it's perfect for me. 2 years and dozens of drops, still accurate.
Flukes don't bounce well, and at $120.00 + , I'll stick with Greenlee. I also got a unique Craftsman a few years ago, digital and analog, GREAT for "swinging" stuff where the analog will just flicker.

Nice thing with the Greenlee and most new meters, if you leave it on Ohms and test voltage, it doesn't blow the fuse.

[ppeters914]

Hey, thanks for helping dispell some of my "Fluke Envy" (although their $500 Network Tester is da bomb!)

Have to check out the Greenlee. I've seen the label, but never really looked at their stuff.

....blow the fuse testing resistance on a live circuit.....gee, that's never happened to me!

[dbrick]

Me either, must have been a fluke

Greenlee makes all kind of electrician stuff, pipe benders, knockout punches etc. We had a hand bender for , I think, 2 inch rigid conduit...It was almost 7 feet long and took two large men to use..Argh Argh Argh(Tim Allen sound effect)

[impinhigh]

Thanks for all the help!

Now working
Wipers
Fan

Still running down
Head lights
running lights
turn siginals

Thanks again!