R-16 water pump(s)

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70MTroadster

R-16 water pump(s)

Post by 70MTroadster »

Hi all,

My water pump has gone bad. It appears to be leaking from behind the bearing up front. This was a $150 purchase from Rallye when I first got the 1600. It is on the Stroker now and can't have over 5000 miles on it!! :evil: I've run the 4 blade fan with adaptor block (nice and concentric, no wobble) since new. The only thing I can think of that has destroyed this pump prematurely is that I went with a 63 amp GM alternator conversion that requires lots more tension on the belt to keep it from squeeling and this increase has wollered out the bearing on the pump. Anyone else experience this? I am thinking a reman from Dean with bigger bearings and larger shaft may be the fix. Someone, Steve?, has also mentioned water pump rebuilders as an option. I don't have any up here in MT and don't know if the cost diferential is worth messing with.

Thoughts?

Scott
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spl310
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Post by spl310 »

If you have to put that much tension on to keep the belt from squealing, I would go back stock with the alternator. A $150 water pump is a pretty hefty price to pay to eliminate the voltage regulator on the inner fender.

That having been said, you may want to see how cheap the water pumps are at Ye Olde Forklift place. Since the tension is killing it, may as well use the least expensive pump...
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ppeters914
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Post by ppeters914 »

I cannot believe everyone doing the GM alternator conversion has to have the belt that tight and/or are xperiencing early water pump failure....

...or are they?
Pete
-------------------------------------
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S Allen
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RE:Water Pump Failure

Post by S Allen »

I am running the single wire on all of my roadsters and have never had to over tighten anything to stop a squealing belt. Not sure I would go as far as blaming the single wire alternator. Pumps go bad and especially rebuilts. With that said you could have one rebuilt for a lot less than $150.00. The last one I had done cost me $60.00 and some change. I keep a spare around just in case. If the early pump fit on a late model roadster I would sell it to you for $60.00 but it will not fit. Finding the early pumps is difficult out here in my neck of the woods. A1 CARDONE 57-1412 fits a 70, 1600. Go to the local Napa or Autozone and see if they cannot get you the above pump. Cardone still lists them on their site unlike the earlier pumps.

Scott, you might want to try a different size belt so you don't have to stress anything out to get rid of the squeal.

Good luck!

Steve
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TR

Post by TR »

Make sure the new alt. is bolted up straight, any misalignment of the belt will cause it to squeal under normal tension. Higher tension stops the noise, but may be needed just because of the misalignment...TR
70MTroadster

Post by 70MTroadster »

OK all, thanks for the input. The alternator is straight TR but good thinking. What I meant by tight enough to stop a squealing belt is the difference between the original alternator and its belt which calls for a 1/2 inch of deflection in the middle when adjusted properly and the tight belt of a modern vehicles alternator. I was tought that the belt should be tight enough so that you cannot push on the alternator fan and get the belt to slip. I too cannot believe that everyone is experiencing this trouble when using the GM upgrade and that's why I posted it. I'll try NAPA Steve. Thanks all.

Scott
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dbrick
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Post by dbrick »

The GM alternator may require a different width belt than the Datsun waterpump/crank pullys. Too narrow a belt will require tremendous tension not to slip. You should be able to get a different alt pully if that's the case

NAPA rebuilt my 2000 pump for $31.00, but double check the picture listing in the back of the book, they mix up part #'s between 1600 and 2000. They will aslo rebuild your pump, mine took about 7 working days.

Can look here, but double check pictures before $$
http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/ncomm ... rg_string=

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