Starter Removal - Steps & Connections

[Patsdad]

Fellas

I understand the best way to remove a starter is to take off the front tire and cut the horizontal panel, yielding access to the starter motor. This work has alraedy been performed by the previuos owner

I can see the unit but it's a very confined space. I am concerned that I will incorrectly remove the starter. Or more simply, what I do not understand is the actual Un bolting of the starter from the vehicle

Specifically, how many bolts and which ones get loosened to facilitate the starters removal & how is it to be re wired. Assume R series engine from 1967 and up

Lastly, its a very tight space, so what procedures and precautions need to undertaken so it can be safely and efficently removed I would rather not pay someone to do this if I can DIY.

Thanks for any help Pat

[K1200 GT]

Pretty simple operation. Not like pulling teeth I mean. Disconnect the negative ( - ) cable from your battery. Do both if you would rather. Should be two bolts going through starter ears. Top and bottom. Do the hardest one first...top most likely. So you wont be fighting it last. Pull starter straight out...may have to have butt end up or down to get clear. if you have headers may have other problems. Twist...push...pull to get it into position of the frame hole. Head first or rear first out the hole which ever works best for ya. Make sure the wires are disconnected from starter before full removal. Remove them if it can be done before removing starter bolts. Reverse order to replace.

Rich

[notoptoy]

Other than the space constraints, this is pretty simple.
1) Disconnect the battery!!
2) Label the existing wires, and take a picture, in fact take several pictures!
3) Remove the large battery cable - might be red, but it's big, and bolted onto the Solenoid, (the round thing piggy backed onto the starter) and remove the other 2 wires, again noting position for reassembly..
3) There are TWO bolts that hold the starter to the engine block/Bell housing, they are 15 MM heads, I believe, possibly 17 mm. One at the top of the starter, close to the engine block, and one exactly opposite this one at the bottom, Remove these bolts
4) The unit is HEAVY, so be prepared when the last bolt is loose, and maneuver the starter toward the front of the car about an inch, and then tilt down and maneuver it out of the car
5) Reverse procedure for re-assembly.

Good luck!

[jamesw]

I remember I replaced one of the bolts on my starter w/ a hex-head bolt because it was a lot easier to get in and turn. I posted a photo in my SRL311-07371 thread

HTH
James

[notoptoy]

I remember I replaced one of the bolts on my starter w/ a hex-head bolt because it was a lot easier to get in and turn. I posted a photo in my SRL311-07371 thread

HTH
James

This is good advice if you have the inclination to get one, a socket/hex head bit will be easier to get onto that upper bolt. Wish I had thought about that last time around.
And Rich posted while I was typing I guess, so his response was up by the time I posted, - not meaning to correct or second guess him in any way!!
Tom

[jamesw]

http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/download/fil ... &mode=view" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It was the lower bolt.

Cheers
James

[K1200 GT]

Its all good notop. I think the man should be able to getter done. it not fair tho you have pictures.

Rich

[Patsdad]

Fellas,

Thanks so much for all the replies. Will work on removal tomorrow night, after my kids go to bed. Will plan to remove tire and then snap some pics so I have a frame of reference. Stay tuned

Thanks, Pat

[Patsdad]

It's OUT!

The replacement should be a gear reduction?

Instal lshould be a bigger PITA Removal went better than expected, top bolt came out with wrench and a hammer's persuasion.

More later, thanks again for the feedback Pat

[notoptoy]

Gear reduction is a suitable substitute, it's smaller and more powerful and should go back in much easier than the old one came out!
Good luck!

[Dave_Car_Guy]

I've been reading through prior posts to understand starter replacement issues -- I found this one to be helpful...thanks. But one question: is all the advice above given ONLY if there has been an access panel cut out? Or does all this apply to a stock set up...? That is, can I get to the starter, and maneuver it out, without removing the intake manifold, as it indicates in the tech wiki section, or without cutting an access point under the driver's side wheel sell?

BTW, the reason for the replacement is due to what I assume to be a starter problem... I get a grinding type of noise as if the teeth on the starter and flywheel are not meshing. The car will turn over and start, but it sounds as bad as a blender full o' bolts!

Thanks!
-Dave

[dbrick]

Have you been able to check if the starter bolts loosened? If not, the noise is either a bad starter (likely)or a REALLY bad flywheel (Not likely). Most cars by now have had the metal plate removed, so it's probably not there. If you can see the starter from the wheel well, then I believe the plate is gone.

[K1200 GT]

I did mine with out cutting anything. Read my post back in August 2011. That was the old long starter I removed. I put the newer short one back in. It can be taken out without cutting.....just have to play with it a little. Stock exhaust any way.

Rich

[Dave_Car_Guy]

Perfect information, as always. Thanks Dave and Rich... your descriptions were just what I needed, I just wanted to make sure I didn't need to learn to use a welding torch! I haven't yet tried to loosen the bolts. That is my next step, then to EBay to get the new starter... Cheers, gents.

[jamesw]

If you intend to remove it w/o taking off the manifolds, you will need some special tools. LOOOONG socket drive extensions, a u-joint (sometimes called a wiggler) etc. I replaced my standard bolts with hex heads since they are smaller and easier to remove.

HTH
James