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[Datrock]

Mark. you beat me to it, I was going to ask the same questions. I plan on doing a little more restoration work than it sounds like you are planning to do. So if there are any do's, dont's or should have ,could have, and would have but didn't experiences doing the body R/R from anyone, they would be very helpfull and appreciated, I'm open to any input. Bill

[S Allen]

I am on my second body off restoration. I guess the biggest thing is to take alot of pictures if you are disassembling everything as I have done. It is not fun when you forget how things go back together. I have a bare frame in my garage right now. I need to finish welding up my SR20 modifications, get it sand blasted and then start on reassembly. I have all of my new parts along with the old parts stored in plastic storage containers. Use baggies to keep nuts and bolt in. I mark the bags as to what parts belong where. I keep everything-even broken bolts, bagged and tagged until I have it back together. Then you can sort through the broken bits and toss them in the recycle bin. I guess pictures is the key here. You can never have too many. And sometimes we do not get to stay with a project like we had planned. Pictures will jog the memory. Good luck!

Steve

[TR]

You know, I never tried getting the body off with the engine in place, but I bet it can be done as the assembly line must have done it that way, granted with a more sofisticated method of holding the body.

As for pictures, absolutely. Things always come up that keep you from finishing as quickly as first thought and having the pics really helps.

As for lifting the body, it is surprisingly easy. A number of bolts, some wiring and the brake lines and the car lifts away. I'd recommend using up most of the gas in the tank, too.

TR

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[67 1/2 1600]

I beleive it is possible to take the body off with the motor in place. Just make sure you remove the carbs to clear space. And you would probably also have to take out the long tube for the steering. I am no pro at this, I am just remembering some stuff from when I did mine. I removed my body on and off(twice) with the motor in place.

Joaquin

[srldatsun]

I used a cherry picker to lift my body off the frame. Attached 2 chains to the seat belt bolts and slowly lift. It stuck pretty good till POP. The next one I would bang up and down the frame with a rubber mallet to help release it without such a jerk. I followed the removal steps that are on the 311 site. Its under "Restoration Tips" - "Removing the body for a frame Off". Important to make sure you got everything. I first took the engine out but I see no reason why you couldn't do it with it in. In fact Im going to reinstall the body with the engine already on the frame.

Jeff

[ole skool]

Body can be taken on and off with drivetrain still on the frame. See my conversion pics in the Engine Swaps section un der "another engine swap" title. This is not a small task though, and I noticed that everyone so far has neglected to mention the disconnection of the steering shaft. You have to remove or disconnect:

Body to frame bolts
Wiring harness connection to chassis clips or harness plugs
Radiator hoses and overflow hoses (remember it is still on the body)
Steering shaft
Hard plumbing lines for brakes and fuel
E-brake cable
Carbs and intake manifold to clear inner fender (can get by with just the carbs)
There are probably a couple that I forgot.

Also, be careful when you remove the body for torsional bending. I have seen even bodies with good floors and rockers torque when lifted and supported improperly. This can make door, trunk, and fender gaps get out of whack when you remount the car. Also be sure and check, inventory, log the placement of, and R&R your body to frame mouting pads. These are usually rotted pretty good as the rubber appears to have cotton fibers interwoven in it. Sports Imports has new ones.

Wade