anybody heard of "glueing" in replacement panels?

[markjhatch]

Hi,

Engine running, so going after the body work next. I have some rusted out spots (the usual rear quarter panels etc.) and will be having the body shop install replacement panels.

I know that the SOP for this is to weld them in. However, my body shop is recommending that they glue (epoxy) them in. With today's glue, I can believe that they will be as strong as welds. Just never heard of anybody else doing this.

Anybody gone this route or heard about success/failure?

Thanks

Mark

[MSmethers]

Used all the time in body shops and new panel replacement. Mostly on door skins and other overlapping applications. I can certainly see the benefits. After having welded on our untempered japanese steel, I can attest to the tendancy to warp very quickly. Probably save lots of labor dollars for you in the long run. Biggest thing would be to make sure there are no voids within the glued joint as they would promote corrosion and rust down the line.

My 2 cents.

[dbrick]

IIRC, Eastwood's has parts/tools/info on this. Makes a lot of sense to me, especially if you can flange it first. Eastwoods.com

[MSmethers]

If buying a flange tool, be mindful of the offset amount. I've bought a couple that don't put a deep enough flange onto the part for thicker sheetmetals. For the 20-22 gauge datsun steel, they should be fine. The older steel of the 50's eras won't flange deep enough with the standard tool, and leave the surrounding panel proud of the patch.
From what I've looked at, economically, if a shop is doing the repair it is cost effective. If one has to buy the tools, glue and two part tips/guns, it may be cheaper to weld, hammer and dolly.

[greydog]

I replaced the drivers side forward floor pan on our '69 with adhesive. Luckily, I was able to salvage enough of the existing floor to make a nice flange for the new panel. I used Eastwood's adhesive and followed the directions. I put pop rivets every 3-4", seems very solid.
There are several things on the internet showing adhesive installation of body panels. The process is used in today's cars (most notably by Chrysler Corp).
If done correctly, it should be better than welding because the adhesive completely fills the space between the mating panels and acts as a seam sealer. The lack of heat distortion would certainly make the finish work easier.
I don't think I'd glue motor mounts in but it seems a good way to go on body panels.
Dan

[markjhatch]

Thanks all for these responses!

It makes me feel much better about this shop (I had a very difficult time trying to get them to understand that although Moss Motors is a great supplier, they probably don't handle Datsun body panels. )

Mark

[dbrick]

Thanks all for these responses!

It makes me feel much better about this shop (I had a very difficult time trying to get them to understand that although Moss Motors is a great supplier, they probably don't handle Datsun body panels. )

Mark

What panels do you need?

[DatsunDave]

The correct term that the autobody people use is adhesive. "Gluing" doesn't do it justice.

There is nothing wrong with bonding panels this way. Heck if Porsche uses adhesives to build 911s this way...

Some argue it is even better than welding. As greydog explained, a continuous bead creates a barrier to moisture that welding simply doesn't accomplish.

Bonding with adhesives is likely proposed by your body shop to save hours and save you money.

Maybe ask them to price both options and then decide.

Regarless, if you want welded then get welded. If you want adhesive then go that route. It is your car so your call.