water pump removal

[K1200 GT]

Glad you gotter off....what a PTA. Why dont you use bolts this time. put anti-seize on the threads and the bolt shank to keep from seizing to the other metals. i have bolts in mine they seem to work real well. But there you go. what do I know?

Richard

[Linda]

Richard,
PTA is an understatement.
There is one bolt that is stock, I believe, then the 2 studs. I always thought studs torqued down tighter and we sure don't want any LEAKS. The bolt came out easily though. I already bought the new studs and i will use anti-seize, but i was told it doesn't matter as it won't work after awhile. I put some on the thermostat tower studs but when I took it off it was all gone...and the tower was done about a year or two ago. Pumps are on longer, right? So guess it is a good idea but I wouldn't count on it.
We would have used the Sawzall more but too hard to control and you have to be careful of the timing cover.

Linda

[dbrick]

So what was actually seized and prevented removal, pump to spacer and to block, or pump to bolts/studs? Just curious.

[K1200 GT]

I have been using Anti-seize lubricant by Permatex since 1973. On spark plug threads on all types of heads. And any other type of bolts that may need it. I bought the 8 oz. bottle with brush...has lasted about 5 yrs. And still going. Can use on things having a temp. up to 1600 deg. Put it on thick there is no coolent to wash it off so it should last for years. If you use the little packs...you may not be using enough, put it on thick it wont hurt anything. And I dont know who told you it wont do any good....if nothing else use some good grease....or. My other thought was if you use bolts the threads will have anti-seize on them and they will come out easy. And be able to break any crust loose that has built up between the bolt and the water pump. leaving just the pump to get off. You can use some grade 5 or 8 bolts that you can torque so tight it will break the pump housing before it will break the bolts. Studs are not even graded so they and break at any time they see some hard use. Just my .02 cents



Richard

[ttyR2]

Another trick is to gob a little of the antiseize paste in the threaded hole *before* putting the bolt or stud in. A lot of times the act of screwing the fastener in will cause the antiseize to squeeze out of the threads and not stay where it's supposed to.

[Linda]

So what was actually seized and prevented removal, pump to spacer and to block, or pump to bolts/studs? Just curious.

Everything was seized- pump to studs, but not the bolt, pump to spacer block.
By liberating the left stud from the casing( see photo with drilling and chiseling marks) and drilling out the top 2 tiny pump screws, the pump could be rotated to expose the lower stud for similar cracking open, and then the pump can slide off, leaving the backing plate, which then separated from the spacer more easily. There was a bit of separation, spacer to pump, once the pump started moving more. PB Blaster was used into the drill holes when they were first made on Thursday and thruout Fri, but still did not free the stud. Stud casing had to be cracked off.

Re antiseize: I plan to use it liberally, but my point was I hope it is still there when you need it, as I bet it was used on this pump but after so much time it was gone.
Thanks for all the info, much appreciated!

Linda

[ppeters914]

Another trick for parts exposed to water; Teflon paste like the plumbers use. Tube is a couple bucks at Ace, Big Orange, etc. Whatever you use (Teflon, grease, or anti-seize), be generous, then add more.

[Linda]

Got the studs out of the block no problem today. Got the spacer cleaned up and painted with hi temp paint, it looks pretty good no real gouges along the edges and sealing surfaces. A file cleaned up a couple of minor dings. block got cleaned and a new gasket for the block side was made. It's ugly, oh well
I wondered about the teflon stuff as the lower stud is IN the water when it threads in. How is the anti-seize ever supposed to last? I wonder if the teflon would be better.
Linda

[K1200 GT]

Linda, You can use anything you would like. You are trying to ad in the removel of the studs if it ever happens again. You dont want the stud to be to far into the water jacket or you may have other problems. If you are using good quality studs you wont have to remove them for another 40 yrs.

Richard

[dbrick]

Wow, sounds more like coal mining than auto repair, almost time for explosives.

The antisieze is pretty tough, and as everyone says, a little is good, alot is more good. Especially on the unthreaded parts of the stud and bolt that pass through the waterpump. I've been using copper based conductive antisieze for a while, it bonds the parts electrically as well as a thread lube. Some of the corrosion on the cooling system parts is electrolytic corrosion from dissimilar metals, and bonding/grounding helps, so I'll report in 10 years or so if it works.

As far as the antisieze washing out, probably not a big issue on a car. I changed "wet" exhaust manifolds on a boat with a saltwater cooling system and an iron head and block a few years ago. The bolts had been in at least 10 years and came out with a 3/8 ratchet and minimal force. You could still see the antisieze on the threads of the bolts, which went into the cooling jacket, and the manifolds were the way the saltwater left the engine, so prime place for corrosion.

By the way, when you refill the cooling syatem, go to the supermarket and get 2 gallons of distilled water. Use 1 to refill the system, along with a gallon of antifreeze, for a 50/50 mix, and the other to keep in the garage for refills. The distilled water has no minerals or anything else in it, so it will help keep things cleaner.
Glad you got it done with no collateral damage.

[sleepyzzz]

Linda,

i had a new gasket for my water pump that i didn't use, because i got one in the complete gasket kit and if it will work, you can have it. just email or pm, a mailing address and i will send it out tomorrow.

[Linda]

Thank you, that will definitely improve the aesthetics!
PM sent.

Linda

[Linda]

Anyone know what the copper pin in the water pump does?
My old one had it, but it broke, my new one does not have it. There is a little slit on the pump body where it goes. I plan to get a piece of copper wire if I need to before the installation.
TIA

Linda

[K1200 GT]

It just allows some of the coolant to bypass the thermostat. I read here that some of the guys even make the hole bigger. Im going to take mine out on my new thermo. But not make the hole bigger. So not to worry.

Richard

[K1200 GT]

Sorry I thought you meant the thrmostat...cant read this morning. If that piece of copper is going to break over time...not sure I want it in the water pump area. Or even in my engine.

Richard