Parrish Hard-Top

[pebbles]

Pebbles,

That is exactly what I was thinking... My old top was textured and it appeared that with persistence you might be able to peel the outer layer. It had scratched through in a couple of places... But I think sanding might be the way to go...

Are you going first or am I?

Think how great it would be if we had a definitive answer to this question... Imagine how many crappy old tops would get revitalized!

dw

I walk by it every day, but its not a priority for me right now.,,,,maybe by the weekend, I can try a "spot".
I did paint a 72 914 top many years ago. It had a sprayed on texture and very thick fiberglass,
I had some hours into that, getting it straight enough for shiny paint.

[fj20spl311]

Alvin has one. LOL

[fixitman04]

as long as you properly prep it and use resin as a filler sanding it smooth would be the proper way to eliminate the texture

[pebbles]

High window hardtop, sanded through the black topcoat to the gelcoat,(sorry I was wrong, there is white gelcoat on the exterior). It is about as thick as the texture. As fixitman states, a resin type "fiberlay" product, would be the proper way to recoat.
The top I have will need more work to get it straight for a glossy finish.

[jamesw]

Good info, thanks!

James

[Datsun.David]

Nice work! Did it come through fairly quickly? Does it seem like it has enough thickness remaining to make sense?

One of the guys on my hockey team has a body shop and lets me putter on weekends, so I might go see if I can peel it off when the weather is crappy here... oh wait, that is basically now until April...

dw

[pebbles]

In the pic you can see where I barely went through the gelcoat, testing. Using the texture as a guide with some 80 grit on a DA (dual action, orbital, oscillating) 6 inch sander. So it looks like the gel is just to the level of the texture, that may vary a bit throughout the top, gelcoat is generally sprayed and spray pattern may cause thinner/thicker areas.
Gelcoat is hard, harder than paint, but it sanded fairly easy. Be careful, do not sand into the fiberglass plies.
If the fiberglass plies are not compromised, the top will remain strong enough IMO.
http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/Product ... coats.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.snugtop.com/company-history.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[fixitman04]

exactly.... you are gonna want the
F60-0175 high gloss additive and F71-3587 White Polycore Enamel
then spray it to a level surface with multiple coats and sanding in between each coat
id recommend the biggest hvlp tip available.
with the cheapest gun available so it can be considered disposable... you do not want to reuse the gun for paint after running gel coat through it....


you do not want to use a glass-filler product... just use the gell coat as a filler... the glass-filler will not hold up long term and will make it very heavy

[Frank Cost]

What type of latches are used to mount to the windshield?

I have a Dynaplastic hardtop that I'm working on for my 1967.5 low window. The top did not come with top latches. Does anyone know of a source?

[fj20spl311]

What type of latches are used to mount to the windshield?

I have a Dynaplastic hardtop that I'm working on for my 1967.5 low window. The top did not come with top latches. Does anyone know of a source?

Usually they use the "stock" latches.

The 67.5 latches are available from Fairlady Parts IIRC for $$$.
I just swap mine from the soft top when I have the hard top on.

[notoptoy]

Agreed, those latches appear to be made of Solid goldbased on the prices I have seen them go for in E-bay. The wire ones pre-67.5 will work as well as the nice cam action for the 67.5 - I have a set of each - the cams on the hard top and the wires on the soft top, both work with the stock catches just fine.

[mattywood]

parrish top:





Eddie's

tom's

HARD TOP BACK HOLD DOWN.JPG

http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/download/fil ... &mode=view" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Nice pics Alvin but my 69 doesnt have that latch on the body that your low screen has. Is my car missing something or do we just hookup under the lip in the body? Also what is under the trim of the hardtop that the hook is screwed too just some wood?

[jamesw]

There is a metal stud that comes through the hard-top from the "Parrish" logo. That's the "hard point" that you use to attach the top at the rear. I have a high windshield top and my car DOES have the rear bracket on the car but it is not adjustable like on the low windshield cars. If your car is missing those brackets let me know - I have spares.

Cheers
James

[mattywood]

Thanks. I will mod something from a hardware store.

[jamesw]

I got my top back from the body shop recently. I put the lower rubber seal on and test fit the top on my car last night. Here's what she looks like.

I need to get it squared up and lock it down, then leave the car out in the TX sun to bake for a while and then I think it will fit better. I want to thank Alvin again for the pix - it really helps me see how the top should fit in relation to the rear deck finisher and the soft top posties and hooks.

Still haven't put in the replacement window (the one from Smoothline does not fit btw) - that's next on the list.

Cheers
James