1968 1600 Offer help

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jm121
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1968 1600 Offer help

Post by jm121 » Wed Oct 18, 2017 1:13 pm

Looking for help with what to offer. Step daughter of owner says it's been in storage for 20 years and hasn't been on highway in the same amount of time. Also said it wasn't the original engine. He says it needs brakes and the carburetor sticks from sitting. The signal lights are also not working . He said it starts but can't be driven due to the brakes. I might be going to look at it this weekend, but I was just looking for some help. I'm a newbie to roadsters. Tough to find any around this area, so I was excited to see one relatively close to me. Thanks
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AC77
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Re: 1968 1600 Offer help

Post by AC77 » Wed Oct 18, 2017 2:04 pm

Based on the pictures, it looks like it's in pretty good condition. What is the seller asking and what area are you in? Even if it can't be driven due to brakes, it would still be helpful to hear the engine running. When I bought mine, to avoid the back and forth of pictures, I asked the seller to take a video of a walk-around and starting and revving the engine. I think I asked for a few other things too, just can't remember off the top of my head.
Adam C
1967 SPL311-08433 1600, "Ivy"
1964.5 Ford Mustang Coupe
1967 Volkswagen Beetle
1971 Volkswagen Super Beetle

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AidanDawn2000
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Re: 1968 1600 Offer help

Post by AidanDawn2000 » Wed Oct 18, 2017 2:16 pm

Need to dig around and look for rust but looks like a great car overall. 4300-5000 I would say.
Oil a little low? Time to get a longer dipstick:)
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1968 2000 SRL311-05110 (first car! Rust Bucket. Sold :( )
1969 2000 SRL311-10440 (matching numbers, Solex!)

jm121
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Re: 1968 1600 Offer help

Post by jm121 » Wed Oct 18, 2017 2:23 pm

He is asking $6500, but that is more than I'm willing to pay. I'm in West Virginia. He is an older gentleman and his step daughter who lives in Ohio is trying to help him sell. I will need to go see it in person. I wasn't sure of other issues I should look out for.

AC77 wrote:Based on the pictures, it looks like it's in pretty good condition. What is the seller asking and what area are you in? Even if it can't be driven due to brakes, it would still be helpful to hear the engine running. When I bought mine, to avoid the back and forth of pictures, I asked the seller to take a video of a walk-around and starting and revving the engine. I think I asked for a few other things too, just can't remember off the top of my head.

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spags1986
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Re: 1968 1600 Offer help

Post by spags1986 » Wed Oct 18, 2017 5:06 pm

Wow, almost hard to believe it's been sitting for so long. Like others have said look in the common rust areas, look at the floor in the trunk for stress cracks from the gas tank, and look under the hood at the clutch master cylinder for stress cracks. I personally think the asking price is fair but again I am doing a ground up restoration and surpassed the 6K mark long long ago. :?

Good luck and let us know what you think.
1967.5 2000 (In Frame off restoration)
1966 1600
1969 2000

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bikermike
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Re: 1968 1600 Offer help

Post by bikermike » Fri Oct 20, 2017 1:29 am

The asking price seems in the right range. Initial impression is that the car looks complete, so you shouldn't have to spend a lot of time and money chasing down parts.

That said, go into it with open eyes. Search past threads and the techwiki for some guidance on what to look for when buying.

After sitting for so long, figure on spending at least $1500 - $2000 to get it to be driveable. You'll need new tires to replace the 20+ year old rubber and a likely a complete rebuild (or replacement) of brake and clutch hydraulics. Is the fluid dark or black? The battery is likely on its least legs. Expect that ball joint dust boots are mush and that the shocks are shot. You'll want to replace all rubber - fuel lines, brake hoses, coolant hoses, belts, bushings. The electrical gremlins are likely not expensive, just time consuming to diagnose.

Good luck.
-Mike
1967.5 SPL311
1972 240z / L28
2003 BMW 525i Touring

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fj20spl311
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Re: 1968 1600 Offer help

Post by fj20spl311 » Fri Oct 20, 2017 5:27 am

They always look nicer in photos. Look for recent touch up paint work. The body looks to be in very good shape. Look for cracking in the trunk floor.
I would need pictures of the under side of the car along the drip rails and seams before I would travel very far.
If you get her for $5K, you will have $10K or more in her if you need to have the work done. If you do it your self and things go well, you still will need at least $3K more.
Phil
67.5 SRL311-00148 Blue (FJ cruiser VOODOO Blue)
67.5 SPL311 FJ20E teal SDS EFI
69 SRL311 SOLD
19 Raptor SCAB