Ultra cool R16 and H20 Stroker Valves

[JT68]

Custom built stainless 7mm stem R/H20 stroker or R16 racing valves, spring, retainers, seals kit.

Real racing beehive springs for very high rpm operation. Ferrea/Del West quality. Custom chromoly retainers, locks and seals are included. (Sorry No budget Taiwan, ROC, Korea parts here!)

Super light valve-train. Moderate spring pressure is totally suitable for street use too because reciprocating mass is so greatly reduced-excessive spring pressures are not required.

Available in std with minimal oversize (seat savers), or +1, +2 mm. Great for strokers.

Also .05/.100 extended spring height available for big cams.

These are entirely custom manufactured. We can build guides for you, you can do them yourself or we can set up the whole head.

Email for pricing and additional info// thx! JT

image.jpg

image.jpg

[Daryl Smith]

Weight is the enemy if you want to go fast, and these will drop a lot of weight from the valve side, mostly from the spring and retainer (less than 1/2 the weight of stock spring assembly?). By my thinking this should allow for higher rpm, and lift, with less spring pressure (than with dual springs at rated rpm) which will be easier on the cam with reduced friction.....
That being said, I have a few questions...
1) What rpm are we talking about?
2) What valve lift capability?
3) modifications required other than the valve guide and seal?
4) Are they legal for most racing classes?
5) 45* seat? 30* back cut?....?
6) Care to share the seated and open spring pressures?
7) installed height?

[JT68]

Great questions, but some of it will depend on the goal.

1. A lot. 8k/8500 easy. Have used these springs on 10k engines but with lighter valves. The 7mm are quite light, so 8k is probably conservative. The limiting factor will be the weight of the lifters and pushrods. If one builds light race versions of those, 9k+is possible if you can keep the lower end together. EVERYTHING has to be up to the task and perfectly balanced.

2. Depends on how it is set up. 500 is easy, .550 not too hard, around .600 is possible with other maneuvers. (not that you need .600)
3. none required unless you are going for bigger lift. Building some guides now to have on hand too. The set shown is stock head size, but we can go bigger.

No real need for roller rockers either since the whole valve train is working at pretty forgiving spring pressures. (That saves a bunch of money) To get up to around .550+, you'd need to recess the spring seats a bit (pretty straight forward). Also depend on which head you are starting with since the spring seat setup is different on early/late heads.

4. That would depend on the club. Have not looked into the details. I really built these for our stroker projects. These will be awesome for big displacement strokers.
5. The current set is 45 with a very gentle back cut&transition.
6. Depends on how the we set it up, options from stock up to about 120 at the seat. Totally streetable too. No need to run high nose pressures with these light pieces.
7. Depends on what you are after and what spring setup you want. 1.1620 is normal, but since these are custom parts 1.580-1.670+ is possible. You just have to watch rocker geometry if you start getting taller.
8. CrMoly or titanium retainer options too.

I'll have an 8mm setup finished in about a month for those with a tighter budget. U20 also.