Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots
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- jrusso07
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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots
After initial install, take a flat blade screw driver and "flip" tHe lower lip into the mount side of the ball joint. To seal it. It is a little tricky to do but ounce you seal it, it doesn't come out again. I will post a pic (tie rod end or center link)
These are pics of the center link. The left hand one is not "seated" (before) the right hand is "seated" (after)
I chose red too
Before: http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/7046/vr0j.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
After: http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/3015/irh1.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
It takes a little patience...place blade of screwdriver under the end of the boot. Lift up until you can slide the blade on top of the casing. Move blade around circumference of casing. Thin wide blades work best. Remember you are compressing that urethane so it will fight you.
These are pics of the center link. The left hand one is not "seated" (before) the right hand is "seated" (after)
I chose red too
Before: http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/7046/vr0j.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
After: http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/3015/irh1.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
It takes a little patience...place blade of screwdriver under the end of the boot. Lift up until you can slide the blade on top of the casing. Move blade around circumference of casing. Thin wide blades work best. Remember you are compressing that urethane so it will fight you.
Last edited by jrusso07 on Sun Dec 08, 2013 1:52 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Joe
1969 SRL311 - Solex
1970 SPL311 - U20 mod
1970 SRL311
1969 SRL311 - Solex
1970 SPL311 - U20 mod
1970 SRL311
- notoptoy
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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots
Interesting tip, I had not seen that before.
"When all else fails, force prevails!" Ummm, we're gonna need a bigger hammer here.
67.5 SPL311 H20 w/5 speed
65 Impala Convertible
2017 C43 AMG
67.5 SPL311 H20 w/5 speed
65 Impala Convertible
2017 C43 AMG
- Gregs672000
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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots
I just got done greasing the front end, and all of mine look like your first pic, me not knowing of this trick. I will give it a try too! Thanks for posting... Learn new stuff all the time from this great bunch!
Greg Burrows
'67 2000 #588
Tacoma, WA
'67 2000 #588
Tacoma, WA
- svwilbur
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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots
reviving a thread. im interested in how to seat the boots.
I plan on doing the boot install soon, a couple weeks from now.
but the pictures above are lost like half the pictures always seem to be as they are from a private site and not uploaded.
can someone explain this boot seating process better or post a picture?
I plan on doing the boot install soon, a couple weeks from now.
but the pictures above are lost like half the pictures always seem to be as they are from a private site and not uploaded.
can someone explain this boot seating process better or post a picture?
Stacey Wilbur
1970 2000 SRL311-14335 White
1970 2000 SRL311-14335 White
- svwilbur
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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots
can someone explain this boot seating process better or post a picture?
Stacey Wilbur
1970 2000 SRL311-14335 White
1970 2000 SRL311-14335 White
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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots
Yes, pictures uploaded by Photoshop and other private sites are not visible anymore because sites like Photoshop are now charging money for pictures. It is a shame for forums like this one because a lot of pictures are now missing. Anyhow, I'm in the process of buying boots and seating them as well. Can someone please answer the above question from 2016 and the best place to buy boots at a reasonable price?
Last edited by 111jag on Thu May 23, 2019 12:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- FergO2k
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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots
Energy Suspension has them (Ron's post has the list) and they work great. I am sure numerous vendors have them as well. (Support Our Vendors!)
In terms of seating them, you can see from the pics that still are viewable on Page 1 that new vs OEM are a little different design, but both function the same. (positive pressure of grease keeps the joint surrounded, keeping dirt and moisture out, refill regularly based on use and heat. Pump until it squeezes out, then gently wipe off the excess, good to go)
(note: it is just the new ones are easier to mold and less expensive to tool for molding, and the materials are WAY better suited for the beating that underbelly use dishes out)
So, "rimming them in".
The joint/metallic may have a slight undercut for the boot rim to ride into. If this is the case, they have sized them so that the boot is squeezed tight over the normal diameter shaft, but "slips" in to this undercut. But you have to get it there.
The flat blade screwdriver works, you are just laying the blade so that tip is normal/perpendicular to joint shaft, twist/cant the blade slightly so one side is higher, then make high side the trailing edge and starting working the boot up untilit "clicks" into the slot. Now when you pump the grease, it is going to come out the top because that location is a mere friction fit.
Some prefer the dental tool instead of the flat blade screwdriver, but that is more prone to sticking/tearing the boot.
I would have to say the new urethane boots are very durable, and if you throw them in the clothes dryer for 2-5 minutes they are very soft and workable. (only do this when they are new and clean!!!)
In terms of seating them, you can see from the pics that still are viewable on Page 1 that new vs OEM are a little different design, but both function the same. (positive pressure of grease keeps the joint surrounded, keeping dirt and moisture out, refill regularly based on use and heat. Pump until it squeezes out, then gently wipe off the excess, good to go)
(note: it is just the new ones are easier to mold and less expensive to tool for molding, and the materials are WAY better suited for the beating that underbelly use dishes out)
So, "rimming them in".
The joint/metallic may have a slight undercut for the boot rim to ride into. If this is the case, they have sized them so that the boot is squeezed tight over the normal diameter shaft, but "slips" in to this undercut. But you have to get it there.
The flat blade screwdriver works, you are just laying the blade so that tip is normal/perpendicular to joint shaft, twist/cant the blade slightly so one side is higher, then make high side the trailing edge and starting working the boot up untilit "clicks" into the slot. Now when you pump the grease, it is going to come out the top because that location is a mere friction fit.
Some prefer the dental tool instead of the flat blade screwdriver, but that is more prone to sticking/tearing the boot.
I would have to say the new urethane boots are very durable, and if you throw them in the clothes dryer for 2-5 minutes they are very soft and workable. (only do this when they are new and clean!!!)
Fergus O
69 2L, SUs (driver, not susceptible to polish)
02 Tacoma 4 door (sold at 300k miles!)
2017 Honda Ridgeline (2021 purchase)
Los Alamitos, CA
69 2L, SUs (driver, not susceptible to polish)
02 Tacoma 4 door (sold at 300k miles!)
2017 Honda Ridgeline (2021 purchase)
Los Alamitos, CA
- FergO2k
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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots
http://fcrcmachine.com/rare-parts-upper ... ter-10250/
this one has an undercut in the joint on the lower side for the boot to index into
this one has an undercut in the joint on the lower side for the boot to index into
Fergus O
69 2L, SUs (driver, not susceptible to polish)
02 Tacoma 4 door (sold at 300k miles!)
2017 Honda Ridgeline (2021 purchase)
Los Alamitos, CA
69 2L, SUs (driver, not susceptible to polish)
02 Tacoma 4 door (sold at 300k miles!)
2017 Honda Ridgeline (2021 purchase)
Los Alamitos, CA
- 2mAn
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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots
My old boots are torn and I want to replace them with these, Ive had them for a while and now seems like the best time to do it.
Is there a walk-through for a newbie like me?
Is there a walk-through for a newbie like me?
Simon
Current Cars:
-1999 Porsche 911 4/98-build, 3.8L M96
Current Cars:
-1999 Porsche 911 4/98-build, 3.8L M96
- FergO2k
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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots
No, but we can make one, and I have the pickle fork and BFH to loan you for removing the joints.
I got a small bin and put 1/2 gal of diesel in it to use as "parts washer" that worked great and left the surroundings clean as well.
Best time to do shock/spring, etc at same time, if you need to.
I got a small bin and put 1/2 gal of diesel in it to use as "parts washer" that worked great and left the surroundings clean as well.
Best time to do shock/spring, etc at same time, if you need to.
Fergus O
69 2L, SUs (driver, not susceptible to polish)
02 Tacoma 4 door (sold at 300k miles!)
2017 Honda Ridgeline (2021 purchase)
Los Alamitos, CA
69 2L, SUs (driver, not susceptible to polish)
02 Tacoma 4 door (sold at 300k miles!)
2017 Honda Ridgeline (2021 purchase)
Los Alamitos, CA
- 2mAn
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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots
I have a pickle fork and also have some NOS parts upper splindles. I kinda want to knock those out together
Simon
Current Cars:
-1999 Porsche 911 4/98-build, 3.8L M96
Current Cars:
-1999 Porsche 911 4/98-build, 3.8L M96
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Re: Urethane tie rod and ball joint boots
I bought these for my car. Seems to fit in place ok.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/322223246698
https://www.ebay.com/itm/321829350427
https://www.ebay.com/itm/322223246698
https://www.ebay.com/itm/321829350427