OK, I've surfed around the web and within this site and keep hearing things like, "Geez, I didn't know how expensive it was to properly repair body damage"........so what does that mean?
I have a friend that has been in the body repair business for 30 years. According to him, "metalfinishing" is usually reserved for cars up to the 50's manufacture, as the metal is thick enough for this. Our cars, however, have "paper thin" sheetmetal by comparison.
My 70 1600 has the typical rust bubbles in the bottom rear of the front fenders in front of the doors and in the wells on either side of the trunk, both right side and left side. I was simply going to grind out the rust, use fiberglass and polyester resin for strength and and thin skim of bondo over that and away I go...... Very interested in what" properly repaired" means to you folks.
scott
"proper body repair"
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S Allen
- Site Admin
- Posts: 4531
- Joined: Thu Dec 05, 2002 4:57 pm
- Location: Knoxville, IA(Lake Redrock)Emory, TX
- Model: 1500/1600
- Year: Low Windshield-64-67.5
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RE:Bodywork/Prep
Scott,
Your way will work just fine. My two cents-Properly repaired to me would be cutting out the cancerous sections and welding new metal in it's place. Bang things in or out so it does not take much filler to smooth things out. I like Eastwood's Meta-Fil but with proper preparation bondo will do just fine. Bondo prep requires removal of all rust and etching metal before applying to bear metal. Many bondo jobs I have seen are way too thick. Using body hammers and dollies to bring the panel as close to flat as you can and then applying a thin coat of what ever filler you like is best. On my next project I am stepping back in time and will use lead to fill all repairs. A buddy of mine did this many moons ago and it turned out very nice. I am certainly no professioanl bodyman but the above has worked well for me. Anyone else?
Steve
Your way will work just fine. My two cents-Properly repaired to me would be cutting out the cancerous sections and welding new metal in it's place. Bang things in or out so it does not take much filler to smooth things out. I like Eastwood's Meta-Fil but with proper preparation bondo will do just fine. Bondo prep requires removal of all rust and etching metal before applying to bear metal. Many bondo jobs I have seen are way too thick. Using body hammers and dollies to bring the panel as close to flat as you can and then applying a thin coat of what ever filler you like is best. On my next project I am stepping back in time and will use lead to fill all repairs. A buddy of mine did this many moons ago and it turned out very nice. I am certainly no professioanl bodyman but the above has worked well for me. Anyone else?
Steve
Last edited by S Allen on Sat Jan 11, 2003 9:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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70MTroadster
Eastwoods meta-fil
I have complete front fenders from a 69 1600 but hate to put them on unless I have to. I should be able to repair the damaged area I mentioned in the previous post without too much trouble.
thanks for your input Steve......as always, you are there for all of us on this site.......
scott
thanks for your input Steve......as always, you are there for all of us on this site.......
scott
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S Allen
- Site Admin
- Posts: 4531
- Joined: Thu Dec 05, 2002 4:57 pm
- Location: Knoxville, IA(Lake Redrock)Emory, TX
- Model: 1500/1600
- Year: Low Windshield-64-67.5
- Contact:
RE:Proper Body Work Prep
Scott,
Ross from Sports Imports had some patch panels made up to repair that lower bottom edge of the fenders that rots out. On my 67.5 mine were both gone. I made my own patch panels replacing the missing metal in my case.
I welded them in place and finished them with Metal-Fil. Mine was so rotted out on the drivers side the only thing holding the bottom of the fender in place was a flat metal bar. Someone had bolted the bar to the fender and then run it to the lip on the outer side of the firewall and bolted it down there. I do not claim to be a guru on anything but will try to help when I can.
Everyone has something to share and this is a great way to do it.
Steve
Ross from Sports Imports had some patch panels made up to repair that lower bottom edge of the fenders that rots out. On my 67.5 mine were both gone. I made my own patch panels replacing the missing metal in my case.
I welded them in place and finished them with Metal-Fil. Mine was so rotted out on the drivers side the only thing holding the bottom of the fender in place was a flat metal bar. Someone had bolted the bar to the fender and then run it to the lip on the outer side of the firewall and bolted it down there. I do not claim to be a guru on anything but will try to help when I can.
Everyone has something to share and this is a great way to do it.
Steve