Success! Broke into Trunk...but why is lock failing like this?

[flying4fish]

After days of trying to get my locked trunk open...success! For those that participated in my last thread asking for help, Mahalo! License plate screw hole method did not work, even with custom tool I welded. I finally bent some 1/4" steel rod into a 90 and drilled a hole up through the trunk floor next to the factor grommet hole to slide the new tool into the trunk. I still could not get the latch to pull down. Ugh. But then I saw the clip that holds the lock cylinder in place, thanks to member Theunz, and I was able to flick the clip out of place and pull out the lock cylinder. From there it was just a matter of sticking my finger in the hole and popping the latch open. Fortunately I was patient and did not resort to drilling the lock, smashing the trunk with a sledge hammer...or selling the car on the street!

But check this video on why it failed in the first place

Do I have a wrong part?? The key lever should not slide off the latch just like that. In the meantime, I'm not closing it back up until I install a cable release, and I will go right to the hood and put one there too. And thank God for small cameras! I could have never done it without a little camera on cable displaying the live action on my iPhone.

The pics show the tool I used; on the floor of the trunk you can see the clip lying next to remnants of broken tools I used to try through the license plate hole.

Again, thanks for all the help.

[MattC]

First off...YAY! Good job! Congrats!

I’m not sure why the lock lever goes that far. Maybe the cylinder is not limiting its travel properly? But honestly, the trunk latch should probably release the lid before it gets past the point of no return.

Anyway, I’m glad you got it open finally.

[sfdaugherty]

Way to go!

Shannon

[Jimmers74]

Nothing succeeds like success!

[theunz]

Congrats for having perseverance and not destroying anything.
Let this be a lesson to all who haven’t already already installed a redundant release cable to do so at the first opportunity!

[Linda]

“Perseverance furthers“- I Ching

Linda

[flying4fish]

Not only did I immediately break out the fishing tackle and leader up a cable release for the trunk...I made one for the hood too! Please don't do what I did, and wait for one to fail before you do these simple things. I was in a foul mood for 4 days!..just ask my wife (who hates the car in the first place). But I'm happy this evening...sun is setting and tequila is calling!

Aloha,
Michael

[bobd]

The alignment of the lock cylinder lever and the latch lever is off. Watch as the cylinder lever walks off the latch lever. The body panel could be bent or just the levers bent.

[rwmann]

The latch assembly -- as mounted -- is located too far to the right (bottom in video), which allows the lock lever to walk off the latch. The latch assembly mounting holes are 'ovaled' to allow proper left/right alignment and engagement. Just loosen, re-align, and re-tighten the latch assembly.

[C.Costine]

Congratulations! Could it be that the lock is from an early car? I have a '68 parts car and I was going to use the lock from it on my '67, but there was a little difference. I think that it was the length of the arm.

[flying4fish]

I've tried to realign the latch, but the ovals only allow up and down adjustment, not left and right. I've got it as high as I can go without the latch hanging up on the sheet metal. I thought flipping the lever over on the lock would fix the problem, but it won't go together that way.I can weld a bit of material onto the lever so that it won't walk off the latch, but for now, I'm just going to use the pull. I'm tired of messing with it. But now I know why I couldn't pull down the latch the way most people do (using a tool through the license plate hole)...the lever on the lock cylinder gets under the latch so it can't be opened.

[rwmann]

How much left or right do you need? Grind away a bit with a round file or Dremel tool?

[spl310]

It looks like the arm on the lock is bent.

[Gregs672000]

Glad you were Successful! I've had a zip tie for an emergency release cable for years that actually gets used a lot. I noted it broke off the other day, as they do fatigue after some time and exposure. If folks went the zip tie method, check them every once in a while.
Doing an emergency release for the trunk and hood is highly recommended on these cars, as a failure here can be very difficult to rectify, and will often result in damage while removing them, especially when you're in a hurry. A owner had to punch his out at a Shasta meet many years ago doing damage to the car, as needed medication was in the trunk and waiting days for it was not an option!

[onsight512]

So as not to create another truck lock thread...

Will these instructions, from the Tech Wiki, also work on a late model car (1969)?

1) Get a length of straight stiff wire, (paint can handle works great).

2) Make a mark at 3 inches and 4 and a quarter inches.

3) Make a 90 degree bend at the 3 inch mark.

4) Put the wire in the passenger side tag screw hole.

5) Line the 4 inch mark up with the rear body panel.

6) Turn the wire so the angled part goes up and to the driver side, it will come to rest on the trunk latch (inside the trunk, it will be parallel to the ground).

7) Turn the wire towards the driver side which will then be pushing down on the latch, and it will pop the trunk.

Pushing down on the trunk lid helps.

I just went and did this on the 67 to make sure it would work, these are exact measurements. (Mark - Datsun 1500)


I tried to open the trunk an hour ago and it felt like the lock cylinder spun an eighth of a turn. The key is stuck in the lock.